Failed Smog
Failed my smog, 100% stock zc sohc non vtec
Passed everything except for 15mph NO and visual for timing. Any suggestions?
Does the fact that the model is STD matter (basically what is the degree for BTDC on the d15b1?) I ask because my ZC timing isn't 10 degrees like he's wanting it to be, which I think is for the D15b1. How do I go about that?
Here's a picture
Passed everything except for 15mph NO and visual for timing. Any suggestions?
Does the fact that the model is STD matter (basically what is the degree for BTDC on the d15b1?) I ask because my ZC timing isn't 10 degrees like he's wanting it to be, which I think is for the D15b1. How do I go about that?
Here's a picture
I'm going to tell you to move out of California.
But seriously though you posted this at 2AM on Honda-Tech, 2 hours later bumping it saying nobody? People have better things to do, like sleep, then answer your Honda questions late at night sorry.
But seriously though you posted this at 2AM on Honda-Tech, 2 hours later bumping it saying nobody? People have better things to do, like sleep, then answer your Honda questions late at night sorry.
that's an easy one, I'm a ca smog tech. looking at your numbers you need a cat replaced. The high CO and high NOX are a dead giveaway. Timing is easy it needs to be at 14-18 degrees BTDC. adjust the timing to the center of the three marks on the crank pulley.
What's the timing for a sohc nonvtec zc? I haven't change the timing at all since I got it from the importers and it's run fine.
If both engines above have different timings then the car wil run like **** if I retard/advance it to whatever stock is, correct? And in doing that wouldn't it make it run crazy rich/lean and fail something else? Am I supposed to just tell the guy, "yo this isnt the stock engine, it's a direct replacement." before he does the test?
Yes it could be the cat but it could be foul spark plugs, o2, etc. (ive replaced spark plugs, air filter, all maintence crap prior to install which was honestly not that many miles ago. Of course though it would definitely help to replace the cat since its probably the original.
Alright from different sources I finally found the timing:
D15b1: 16° +/- 2°
ZC (sohc nonvtec): 16° +/- 2°
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Sooooo, guess I'll be grabbing a timing light and checking this **** out.
D15b1: 16° +/- 2°
ZC (sohc nonvtec): 16° +/- 2°
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Sooooo, guess I'll be grabbing a timing light and checking this **** out.
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Those look right.
By the numbers, your cat doesn't look completely dead yet.
Worth taking off and inspecting to see of the internal structure is melting down and clogging.
If it look ok, but dirty, then possibly try cleaning it.
It could save you $$$ if you don't want to buy a new one.
You can soak it in water and laundry soap to try to clear it out.
This may work for slightly dirty cats.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5icTm...layer_embedded
Guy in the video is a nut case, but you get the idea.
You can also try cat cleaner/deodorizer that you drop in your gas.
Those are $13~35 and are meant for very light deposits.
Probably not worth the money IMO.
More intense method for caked on fuel, oil, and phosphorous is cleaned up using a citric acid bath.
Simmer a pot of 10 citric acid/water solution on a BBQ.
Put cat in it.
Stir it up once in a while.
Let simmer for 6~7 hours - water should be something around 165degF.
Rinse well with water.
Worth a try IMO.
your cat doesn't seem to be completely dead by the numbers you have.
By the numbers, your cat doesn't look completely dead yet.
Worth taking off and inspecting to see of the internal structure is melting down and clogging.
If it look ok, but dirty, then possibly try cleaning it.
It could save you $$$ if you don't want to buy a new one.
You can soak it in water and laundry soap to try to clear it out.
This may work for slightly dirty cats.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5icTm...layer_embedded
Guy in the video is a nut case, but you get the idea.
You can also try cat cleaner/deodorizer that you drop in your gas.
Those are $13~35 and are meant for very light deposits.
Probably not worth the money IMO.
More intense method for caked on fuel, oil, and phosphorous is cleaned up using a citric acid bath.
Simmer a pot of 10 citric acid/water solution on a BBQ.
Put cat in it.
Stir it up once in a while.
Let simmer for 6~7 hours - water should be something around 165degF.
Rinse well with water.
Worth a try IMO.
your cat doesn't seem to be completely dead by the numbers you have.
My friend (who is a smog tech) did ask if I wanted my car tested as a 1.6 vs a 1.5 engine the last time I smogged it. I only bring that up because your papers say 1.5 and he said the amount of allowable emissions differ between two.
I'm not sure if it matters though that the original model of my car was a 1.5? I'm guessing not seeing how this is supposedly a direct replacement.
I think as long as it's a replacement for the same car it's fine. I believe you would have a problem if it was a GSR/LS/etc. in there since that's a motor from a completely different vehicle.
No rental stores (autozone, oreillys, even equipment rental) have them. I don't ever use them often enough to need to buy one either >.>
I've talked to the local referee regarding this before, he stated specifically that if the motor that is being swapped in was an actual option [of the same year] for the same car it's a replacement engine. At a quick glance the smog tech probably didn't think twice about the size of the engine.
I've talked to the local referee regarding this before, he stated specifically that if the motor that is being swapped in was an actual option [of the same year] for the same car it's a replacement engine. At a quick glance the smog tech probably didn't think twice about the size of the engine.
I've talked to the local referee regarding this before, he stated specifically that if the motor that is being swapped in was an actual option [of the same year] for the same car it's a replacement engine. At a quick glance the smog tech probably didn't think twice about the size of the engine.
CARB states that any engine that is not IDENTICAL to the one it's replacing is an engine CHANGE.
If the engine is IDENTICAL in ALL respects to the one it's replacing, then it's a replacement (not a change).
Read the subsections for "engine replacements" and "engine changes"
http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/replace.htm
The VIN states clearly what engine was available for the chassis. Anything other is a change.
Alright, anyone know how to find local ref stations/phone numbers? I googled it and nada came up, I guess I suck at searching haha.
I can go to the local college and ask the auto teacher, the guy is awesome and may know but I doubt if he knows much, especially honda's seeing how he's obsessed with muscle cars.
I can go to the local college and ask the auto teacher, the guy is awesome and may know but I doubt if he knows much, especially honda's seeing how he's obsessed with muscle cars.
Just asked my old teacher - "Any engine swap must go to the BAR referee. No exceptions. They will year date your current engine and determine what emission equipment you must have on the vehicle."
Guess I have to get it bar'd. Shitty.
Guess I have to get it bar'd. Shitty.
That is the main reason I live in Ferntucky, NV. No Smog! Go 20 miles north into Reno and my car wouldnt be legal. lol
I have lots of friends in the Sac area with swapped crx's of many sorts and they all have passed smog.
I have lots of friends in the Sac area with swapped crx's of many sorts and they all have passed smog.
There's a difference between passing smog and doing it legally. If I wanted to blow $150 I'd just go to Santa Ana and get it passed but if there's a potential problem in the works now I might as well fix it ASAP.
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HardSaltydogg
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Mar 7, 2012 10:25 AM



And believe me, he's defying what everyone regurgitates. Bottom line, ALWAYS talk to your LOCAL referee.

