Other than turbo and nos. I am a newbie so keep the flaming down please. I figured I could bore it out and sleeve it. I could put in high performance pistons and rods. What else? Port and polish?

 

What do you have done to her so far? Here's the basic rundown of making a B16 faster:

I/H/E (Of course)
CTR/ITR cams (CTR Intake cam, or 01 ITR intake cam. Both have the same lift. The older ITR intake cams have like 3 degrees less lift. Not much, but if you're **** about it, then just get the CTR)
ITR Throttle body/Intake manifold
Adjustable cam gears
FPR
VTEC Controller (Apex-i VAFC)
Flywheel/Clutch

jB

 

def the most important i/h/e...after that cams and gears, fpr would see the most gains...w/o swapping the block for a 1.8

 

Is there a nice combo of I/H/E that flows better than one another? Being specific to the B16.

I know that every B series is different, but maybe a set-up that might work better than the other.

 

You probably heard this numerous times, but there is no replacement for displacement(not ALWAYS true but oh well). Anything you do to a B16, you can do to a B18 and will out run it. Get a GSR block, or if you're serious about power, send your GSR block to Golden Eagle to get resleeved, or a B20 block.

Basic mods is i/h/e/c(intake, header, exhaust, cat). Those just help your motor breath a little easier.

For real power you'd want new cams, for moderate power I'd reccomend CTR, or better yet Skunk2 Stage I cams. Of course there is tuning so get some nice cam gears and hit the dyno.

What mods do you have in your B16 now?

 

Sure there is, It's called a Turbo!!

 

all the power is in the head

 

Don't forget that if you get some cams, tune them. You could probably find 5-10 extra HP by simply tuning them the right way.

Finally the only true way to go faster without spending any money is weight reduction. If you are really serious, gut the car, take out the A/C, etc.

 

nope only turbo and nos.

 

I am suppose to pick up the motor Monday. It will be going into a 90 civic. It is already stripped. I figured I would bore it and sleeve it. I would put high performance pistons/rods. I would get a TypeR intake manifold. Cams/gears. Fly and clutch. I/H/E of course. Turbo and nos would be last. What can I do as far as the head? Port and polish? What else?


[Modified by NUISANCE, 9:59 AM 10/13/2002]

 

valve springs & tita. retainers to protect your investment.

 

I/H/E CTR/ITR Cams, ITR Manifold, and valvetrain or Skunks Cams and upgraded valve train, gears tuning maybe a vafc. Port and Polish head.

 

How much does port and polishing the head usually go for? Also what can I bore it out to? What are ctr/itr cams? What is itr manifold?


[Modified by NUISANCE, 11:10 AM 10/13/2002]

 

-light p&p job $200+ (depending on how reputable the shop is)
-as for boring a b16, dont bother. find an ls block. bore that to 85mm. makes it a 2.0L. For more on this look into LS vtec (b16 head on an b18a/b block.
-ctr/itr cams = civic type r and integra type r cams
-itr manifold = integra type r intake manifold

hope this helps somehow

 

You mean I need to find a b18 and bore it into a 2.0

 

Increase the compression. 12:1 with some skunk cams and all the bolt-onz. Then weight reduction.

 

Any shop that charges $200 for even a light P&P job, you are just wasting money. P&P is a art and just making larger holes does not mean more HP, in some cases you will lose HP. Any decent job, no matter how light it is, will go for a minimum of $500. If you want a real good job, it will cost right around $1000. The best place that i know is Alaniz racing. Their sole purpose is to make better flowing heads and they even provide a flow chart to show how much better they made the head flow. How many shops do that? Besides, Honda heads flow great straight from the factory so you need to know what you are doing.

And another thing, you really need to decide how fast you want to go. If you want to his 13's, you don't need turbo or NOS. That should be only for the hard core racer who wants to hit 12's or even 11's.

 

boring and stroking a b16a to 2.0 is better then any b18 bored to 2.0.... better rod ratio.... but stroking and boring a b16a is expensive... the stroker kit is worth more then the engine....since you're new to this i suggest you start with the head.. itr/ctr cams are considered mild cams... they will help, but imo you seem like you want to go faster then these cams will push you...


[Modified by XtraFastCRX, 5:16 PM 10/13/2002]

 

But add a turbo in a 1.8 or 2.0 and tell me what is faster, opposed to a 1.6.

 

I already have a fast car, well a family sedan. I figure that my Passat has 220hp and 260+Ft torque. This is just project nuisance. It is something that me and my 2 brothers went in on. They want a fast car but I'm not really worried my car is fast enough, for now.

 

Swap the B16 block out for a B20. Best thing i ever did to my B16

 

Get some skunk2 stage 2 cams, cam gears, valve springs and retainers, skunk ecu to raise the redline and take advantage of the cams, and higher compression pistons.

 

Take it from me, an ex-naturally aspirated b16a builder, do this all in THIS order, and you'll LOVE your car with the B16a.

1. AEM CAI for a 91 Civic/CRX Si, the other don't quite fit right.
2. Thermal 2.25" cat-back exhaust (You might want to have the muffler shop add a resonator on the B-pipe to keep noisey VTEC down.)
3. HighFlow cat or a race pipe (no cat)
4. Z-10 Style Bars for launch/racing/header clearance
5. JDM Integra Type R 4-1 header
6. AVC-R and Dyno time to tune what you have to it's fullest.

Should run mid/low 14's with this on street tires.

7. Civic Type R or Integra Type R Cams
8. Skunk2 or CompCams Valve springs
9. Titanium Retainers (5 companies make then, your choice)
10. Integra Type R intake manifold
11. GOOD Cam Gears with at least 4-6 bolts to hold them from slipping
12. 310cc injectors
13. ITR or Eric's racing or Holley throttle body
14. Dyno time(Your car might slow down from bad fueling until this point)

Should run mid 13's on this setup.

15. Quaiffe Differential
16. ITR final Drive
17. Good Headwork and add stainless valves, new valve guides, and seals.
18. High compression Wiseco or Endyne pistons and Eagle or Crower rods, Integra Type R oil pump.
19. Standalone tunable management like Z-Dyne or Hondata to tune the beast.
20. DYNO!!

Sky's the limit at this point. Possible low 13's/high 12's with a good driver, and some suspension work.

Note: Anything UNDER 300 HP and 9k rpm, and the stock rods will hold up. You might want to think about putting some ITR or CTR pistons in the engine off the bat if the head is off the engine. New rings and a good professional hone are also suggested if you receive the engine taken apart, because there is no time like the present to buy insurance.

I hope this helps. This has been a collection of the last 5-8 years of knowledge on my part. Oh yeah, the times I listed are FULL CHASSIS, FULL WEIGHT, FULL INTERIOR. Things like a carbon hood, removal of bumper supports, interior parts, passenger and back seat, and a/c are all bonus.