Looking for educated opinions here. I have an EG with k20 swapped in. I took it out for 2 full track days, ran it hard and had no issues. Then she got a new clutch, quaiffe LSD , and 4.7 final drive. Took it out for track fun and it was over heating upon 2nd lap....consistently. The thermostat seemed functional as I did a few coolant drain and refills track side, I could see it flowing and don't think there was any air issue

. I just changed the oil, it looked good. Will install a full size radiator and plan to remove the thermostat. Anything else come to mind? Should I have a pressure/ leak down done?

 

full rad should do the trick. What are you using now for a rad?
With the smaller FD you will be running in the higher RPMs more often for same "speed"=more heat, food for thought.

 

Just wait and try it after the full size radiator install, it will be much better. I would recommend keeping a thermostat in because it allows time for the radiator to do it's job and cool. With open thermostat you have a constant flow of fluid and I personally think its not enough cooling in hot humid weather. With my K motor and full size radiator, stock thermostat and stock oil cooler, I rarely see water above 205-210 on a few 100 degree days.

To simply test the thermostat you have at home, set in a pot of water on the stove, heat it up and monitor the temp. You should see it pop open/functioning after about 175 deg.

 

It's a mishmoto 1/2. The civic type. What bothers me is why could I run the car hard with no issue and now it cant go 3 laps. Thats too drastic of a change. Again there is no evidence of coolant in the oil or any other leaks. I can't imagine the changes to the tranny can cause this. Could a faulty radiator cap do this?

I am changing the radiator to the mishmoto - nissan silva s13. It has the outlets in the correct position.

 

Its your FD helping you over heat me thinks.

 

I like the idea of keeping the thermostat to get oil temp up quicker on start up, but worry about it sticking shut. Are there any good ones for the k20 that stick "open" I have heard about?

Do you guys still have that famous motorcycle race, think its in Elsinore?

 

that final drive is stock 4.7 k20a2 driving on track gering down reving constant high will keep engine hot i with the guys i seen this before change the thermostat and full race rad man see how it goes if not check internally

 

Always cooler temps with a bigger rad.
Time to make the change now!

 

4.7fd stock on k20, check! thank you.

 

You might be thinking of a "colder" thermostat and fan switch like from Mugen or Spoon. They will have a lower temp range of opening, and activating sooner than the oem stuff. I have used them on occasions. You might look into atleast the cooler fan switch.
As for gearing I have a type R trans and a 5.0 Final drive and that is not a problem source of any heat issues I have had. It's usually the radiator or the thermostat; and some times too advanced of ignition timing and/or too lean of air fuel mixture will cause an engine to get hot.

 

I think it's stock for 05+, mine is an 03. It certainly revs higher and runs through the gears quicker than it did. I think it was a 4.4.

 

It's not the colder thermostat. Cmaybe it's BS, but I have read about thermostats that open when they fail by design.

 

Thermostats can fail in an open and closed position randomly, more often closed. If you replace your coolant/water in regular intervals and replace the thermostat as normal maintenance you will not have an issue with those two areas.

I know what you meant now, you are thinking of this fail safe - http://www.motoradusa.com/products/f...rmo/index.html

 

I had this same problem when I tracked my k20 eg. If you don't want to spend the money for a full rad, you can use a condenser cover from any cx/vx. It came with civics that didn't have AC. Or you can use a piece of plastic or cardboard to block off the area where the condenser is supposed to be. http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...y5=ENGINE+HOOD it's part number 14

 

has nothing to do with the final drive


is this also a daily driver??

if not then you probably have air behind the temp sender on intake manifold....

start car let it idle....if it over heats bleed the t sender plug....

chad

 

Pure track car that I drive to/from. Interesting. I will investigate this. I already bought full radiator but would like to diagnose the problem anyway

 

If the car isn't spueing coolant into the coolant catch can then it's not overheating. It might be the air bubble issue in this case.

If it is overheating, just FYI

I ran a 2001 Dodge Neon radiator in my car It's a full length radiator but still single pass. 1qty 12" spal fan, no AC. No over heating issues.

Your thermostat can be checked in a pan of hot water. get a thermometer and bring the temp of the water up and watch for when it starts to open and when it full opens.

Mugen opens around 155 and is fully open at 175 I believe.

Some autoparts stores can check if the raditor cap works properly.

Evans NPG coolant for the win!!