I have an '91 Civic Si hatchback (ED7) with d16a6. My timing belt snapped while on the road going about 30-40 mph. Towed it home and is now sitting in my garage.

All I have done so far is remove the snapped timing belt, unbolt the head cover, timing belt cover, and engine side bracket.

How do I remove the a/c belt, alternator belt etc.? I have seen the guides/tutorials, but they don't show to remove this. Any explanations, guides, or tutorials would be helpful.

P.S. - also having trouble removing the side engine transmission mount. got the 2 side bolts loosened, but the bolt accessed through the bottom is really stubborn. the car is jacked up as well as the engine with piece of wood. any ideas?

 

if the t-belt broke, you need to remove the head and inspect for bent valves and piston damage. you don't need to remove the engine.

 

I would try another timing belt before removing the head. The a/c and alt belts are literally 2 bolts each, if you need help figuring that out you should have a friend help you work on the car.

 

i thought the a6 was a non-interference engine

 

i thought ALL honda engines were interference engines.

 

leak down test make sure it holds compression

 

1. Get a service manual (Haynes, Chilton, whatever)
2. Do some reading around here (there's got to be a write-up somewhere) to learn the "tricks of the trade" with this specific job
3. Replace the timing belt and give it a shot, might get lucky and have to do nothing further
4. If you have bent valves, time to buy a new head. You could simply replace the valves but you can probably find another head for less.

 

How do you expect him to do this with a snapped timing belt? If you've ever performed a leak-down test yourself, you'd know why I say this.

 

i got lucky when mine lost a few teeth

 

Wow! You were lucky. I'm pretty sure all the D's and B's are interference engines as well. Try a new belt and pray to the God of your choosing.

 

I have had mine brake also. What you do is jack up your driver side and remove the front wheel. remove the splash guard and lower timing belt cover. To remove the alternator pulley belt you just loosen the tensioner for the alternator and it should pop off. A/C im not for sure on as i took mine out a few years ago. Here is where your going to get pissed. The alternator pulley needs to be removed to get to the crankshaft pulley. We did it with a lady finger and a flipping huge impact at like 110 psi. Once you remove that check the hole for a slot key if it came out with it or not. If it did just remove the crankshaft pulley and slide the key back into the slot its easier that way. Then you can take the valve cover off and remove the driver's side motor mount. This is where your going to want to put some blocks or a jack stand behind the drivers side wheel well so you can use your jack to put slight pressure on your oil pan so when you take the motor mount off its not just hanging. you need to remove the a/c mounting bracket i think im not for sure. Slide the broken belt off and i suggest swapping out the tensioner and water pump because if the water pump seizes say bye bye to your belt and you will have to do it again. now put the new belt back on or all the extras( the tensioner is one bolt and a spring and the water pump is 4 bolts i believe) now the running of the belt goes (teeth on cam pulley, teeth on crank pulley, flat on tensioner and teeth on water pump) Nowput both the cam shaft pulleys and crankshaft pulleys on the mark the alternator pulley where the timing marks are you will realize why later on. The cam pulley has 3 marks use the middle one and put it on the pointer on the upper inner guard just below the pulley. Now run the belt like i mentioned earlier and tension it by hand if you dont have a very strong spring. Then put the alternator pulley on and disconnect the cam pulley by pulling the belt off and use a ratchet and spin the crank pulley until your timing marks line up with the marks on the lower guard and if you spun the cam pulley retime that. Bolt everything back up and try to start it with out the upper guard on so you can check the tension. If it boggs down when you go to step on the gas or dies when you stop its out of time. If this happens just remove the wheel and repeat spinning the pulley until you get it timed right. If i missed anything which i might have since i did this bout 8 months ago just add on.

 

OR....

Unless of course you can recall the proper torque specs for all those bolts as well.

 

Then again anyone with common sense would slap another belt, set cyl1 to tdc blah blah blah then in the end you suck my dick, right?

 

lol at torque specs.

i work in a dealership, other than internal engine stuff do you really think mechanics torque everything to spec?

 

fixed.

I hope you don't plan on doing ANYONE'S timing belt soon. Idk if ur trying to be funny, but that's just not how it goes, kid. Read a book.

 

I broken one on mine doing 70. I don't know how, but I bent no valves. I removed the head, saw nothing, and just put everything back on with a new timing belt/waterpump. Been running for two years, now.

Taking off the head really isn't that big of a deal, but just put a new timing belt on and see if you get lucky. I had a manual, btw.

 

Pretty much, you do everything with an impact gun and air ratchet. Other than headbolts and rod bolts no one torques anything in the real world.

It doesn't matter how fast you're going or even how high you're revving really. Some guys break belts at 8 grand going down the track and don't bend valves, other guys break belts at idle and bend a bunch of valves, it's strictly a luck of the draw thing.

Edit, I broke one years ago on a D15B7, put on a belt and it was fine. It's worth a shot.

 

Uummmmm don't know what this guy is talking about with taking of alternator pulley off to get the crank pulley off.
The best advice you have had here is to get a decent workshop manual, you should be able to find one online for free that you can download.
As far as removing AC belt look for tensioner pulley and it has a 14mm nut on the front loosen that and look for the adjusting bolt 10mm from above and behind the pulley loosen that and remove the belt.
Try replacing the timing belt first before you remove the head you might get lucky but I wouldn't hold my breath.
Good luck.

 

Obviously, but the OP is asking how to remove the A/C belt...... Do you think he needs a random wall of text or would a manual with illustrations maybe come in handy in his situation? The torque specs was just a reference to material not covered in his post, the material you can only get in a manual (or da webz).

 

mine broke going 60 on highway on my 90 crx si with dohc zc motor, and got it towed and later had mech i know put new timing belt and after i cranked it up and it did'nt have any damage, and rode the same as before snapping it, so i was lucky, but you don't really have to look at anything inside or do leak tests, instead just put a new t-belt on and just bascially cross your fingers and hope its going to work otherwise if it does'nt then could be bent stuff and then you go from there . . .

 

wasent sure if this was fixd due to all the bickering.

1st thing I do when I break a t belt is put a new one on it and set it, turn it over and see if it runs. if it has a miss you might have bent a valve (do a compression test) if its not missing but just a tick you might be able to adjust the valves,

Honda makes both interference and non interference motors. when I broke my belt on my A6 it didn't touch the valves but i don't know which motor it is, you can get lucky with both.