jlv55

alright, my car is well past 200 thousand miles and i dont know when he timing belt was last changed. how easy is it to just check the belt out? how do i do it?

BauleyCivic

Look at it and make sure it isnt frayed or anything...you'll need to take the timing belt cover off and look at the belt. If it looks damaged or frayed...you'll need to replace it. If you have had the car for more than 80 or 90,000 miles and it hasnt been replaced...you really should do it anyways. Heres how:

1. Remove the splash shield
2. Remove the power steering pump
3. Remove the A/C compressor adjust pulley with bracket and the belt (with A/C), then remove the alternator belt.
4. Remove the P/S bracket
5. Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt and pivot nut, then remove the belt.
6. Remove the cruise control actuator and the P/S tank bracket.
7. Remove the engine support nuts. Loosen the mount bolt and pivot the engine side mount rubber out of the way.
8. Remove the cylinder head cover
9. Remove the timing belt upper cover
10. Remove the special bolt and crankshaft pulley (you NEED an air gun for this).
11. Remove the timing belt lower cover.
12. Loosen the timing belt adjusting bolt 180 degrees to release the belt tension
13. Push the tensioner to release tension from the belt, then retighten the adjusting bolt.
14. Remove the timing belt from the pulleys.

I recommend that since you are replacing timing belt, you go ahead and replace the water pump as well. It is not that expensive, and is only a few bolts. If the water pump fails, you can kiss your motor goodbye so it's a good thing to get.

Okay, now that you've taken the old timing belt off (and hopefully put a new water pump in), lets put the new timing belt in (Taken from helms. I recommend you have the actual manual in front of you because it includes detailed pictures and diagrams):

1. Install the timing belt in the reverse order of removal; only key points described here.
2. Position the crankshaft and cam pulleys at TDC.
A. Set the crankshaft so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC (top dead center).
NOTE: Align the groove on the teeth side of the timing belt drive pulley to the lower arrow pointer on the oil pump.
B. Align the TDC marks on the cam pulley with the pointer on the back cover.
3. Install the timing belt.
4. Loosen the adjusting bolt, and retighten it after tensioning the belt.
5. Rotate the crankshaft (w/ 17mm socket) about 4 or 6 turns clockwise so that the belt may fit in the position on the pulleys.
6. Adjust the timing belt tension.
7. Check the crankshaft pulley and the cam pulley at TDC.
8. If the cam pulley is not positioned at TDC, remove the timing belt and adjust the positioning.

Evs-One

What you said about using an air gun for the crank pulley bolt....it isn't necessary in most cases.

What I do is remove the flywheel inspection cover, and jam a close ended wrench, usually a 17-18mm in between the flywheel teeth and tranny housing. The diameter of the flywheel makes it so not much pressure is being applie to the wrench, and then REEF on that bolt with a breaker bar. Can usually get it with a little bit of muscle

Nice writeup

BauleyCivic

I ripped it from the helms...

And a breaker bar simply wouldnt work with my crank pulley...even 90psi on a 650 lb-ft gun didnt work...

-Trinitron-

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And a breaker bar simply wouldnt work with my crank pulley...even 90psi on a 650 lb-ft gun didnt work... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I tried 90psi on a 450lb-ft gun and it didn't move. A breaker bar will get it off though.

SLATER97EX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...even 90psi on a 650 lb-ft gun didnt work... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Impact wrench rules! I got mine off with just a couple hits from that thing. It was only a 500lb too.

axhandler

I couldnt get mine off using strap wrench and breaker bar. Took it to a local shop and their half inch impact wouldn't do it either. The guy broke out a 1" Snap-on impact and a huge hose and busted it right off. He said that the gun was capable of like 1500ftlbs but he had it turned all the way down...like 700 ftlbs.

It's strange how some come off easy and some are more difficult. This was the first time in 90,000 miles that mine had been taken off. If they have been removed before they will come off easier.

92hatchdude

Does anyone know when theres not enough tension on the timing belt? I changed mine a few months ago and I have been keeping an eye on it. I noticed that my timing belt is much tighter on the right side of the cam gear. The other side is more loose but not to the point that it will fall off. Anyone have any general ideas on whats safe and unsafe as far as tightness is concerned?

SLATER97EX

thats normal because there isn't anything putting tension on the left half of the belt between the cam gear and the crank.....on the right side you have a water pump and a tensioner between the cam gear and the crank, so that side will seem tighter. mines the same way.

BauleyCivic

even at full tension, you are supposed to be able to twist the long end (left side) of the timing belt 90 degrees...its fine