Background: One day my brakes seem fine. The next day I thought I heard the brake pad indicator thing making its noise. The following day my passenger-side brakes were metal-to-metal. Based on the condition of the driver-side pads, a brake job was not necessary. One pad on the passenger-side looked brand new while the other one was gone and it was metal-to-metal.

According to Haynes and AllDataDIY, I should have been able to pivot the calipers us after removing the lower mounting bolt; however, I was not able to pivot the caliper until I loosened the upper mounting bolt.

Should I have had to loosen the upper mounting bolt to pivot the caliper? (If so, why would both Haynes and AllDataDIY leave that step out?)

If there is/was a problem with the upper mounting bolt sticking, could that have caused the uneven wear?

If not, what might have caused one pad to be worn away to metal-to-metal and the other three pads to be in relatively good shape?

Thanks!

 

You should be able to rotate the caliper up when you remove the bottom bolt. The top one may be seized or torqued down too tight.

Those "mounting bolts" are slide bolts. You could wear a pad down if one is sticking. Usually it shows uneven wear on the pad. Those bolts need to be greased and slide in the hole like butter. If one, or both, encounter any resistance then you need to inspect the pins and the caliper to determine which part to replace. If the boots on the pins are torn/damaged dirt and grit may have got in there and seized it. You might be able to clean it out... maybe.

Honda recommends a certain grease but, I've always used my tub 'o bearing grease to lube then.

 

Great feedback!

Thanks!

 

Again, great feedback!

The passenger-side upper-position caliper pin on my 2003 Odyssey was seized, has been removed, and is going to be replaced...

Now my next problem is with the Honda dealership...

According to the Honda exploded parts diagram for the front disc brakes, the caliper pin with the rubber tip is to be installed in the upper position and the solid/smooth caliper pin is to be installed in the lower position.

When I removed my calipers, I found the solid/smooth caliper pin in the upper position and the caliper pin with the rubber tip in the lower position.

Needing to replace one of the solid/smooth caliper pins, my local Honda dealer parts department wants me to install the caliper pin with the rubber tip in both the upper and lower positions.

Does this make sense/not make sense to anyone?

Thanks!

 

Sorry to Hijack!!! but I really need help and cannot post a new thread until 15 days and five post... please forgive...

I have a Honda Civic 2009 Sports (with sunroof), bought it in 2008 so just shy of 4 years old.

The problem is squeeling brakes, this has been driving me nuts.... need help suggestions.... this all started when all four pads were going out sometime last year in June, so I brought it to a buddy's shop, got all four pads replaced (after market). All is well until my front Honda rotors start to get scratched and marked with groove from these pads, so the mechanic replaced my Honda rotors with also after market rotors, that's when my nightmare started... so all smooth for like a few weeks until my back rotors started to warp so NEW rotors warping soo quick, the mechanic did warranty on those and was all good for about a week... front and back started to get warped so ... requested to replace the pads and rotors this time.... paid extra upgrade to Adelco rotors, with same cheasy pads.... (not my choice... the decision from them and all this happened so quick) so OKAY new Adelco rotors new pads, exactly a week later, I hear this tight low sqeek sound, so I brought it back, the mechanic thinks it's my caliper I said my car is 3.5 years old and the sound is fine when I drive, I think it's the pad, so I said I was going to bite the bullet and get HONDA stock pads, so I paid extra and upgraded and they only got me front pads as they think it was just the front giving problems... less than 40KM/48hrs I hear the front brakes sqealing and scraping my front rotors, brought it in and I had to agree, as the driver side caliper because that was where the scarping was...

Caliper changed and the noise was still there, the mechanic said it will take some time as the reminder particles from the scraping needs to warn down...

I couldn't take it any more so brought it to another mechanic, very detail, as the took me rotors out and measure it to see if it was warped on the edge was slightly warped, they machine it down and the front rotors looks new, used sand paper sand down the pads, as for the back they notice the cheap pads weren't making good contact so that is why it was sqeeling too, so he sand it down but not machine back rotors, so on my way home that night it was peace of mind no noise, next day going to work (I drive to the heart of the city lots of traffic and stop go), the noise started and was worse than every after over 1.5 hour of stuck in traffic..., all of this that happen the first mechanic actually thinks there's something wrong with my braking system and suggested I bring it into the dealer..... the second mechanic said all moving parts are good it's your parts that you are using....

At this point I am tempting but afraid to just bite the bullet and get ORIGINAL HONDA ROTORS and PADS so my nightmare will go away,

PLEASE HELPPPPP!!!!! Thanks a lot for your help and attention...

KK

 

Use OEM and don't let them use an air wrench to tighten the lugs. ONLY a torque wrench.

 

Laz Long, thanks for reading my post and replying so quick what do you mean? lugs? Where is this? How do I know?