Suspension Do it right or dont do it at all
Hello fellow HT peeps, ok so ive been researching like crazy and finally ive decided to buy the kw v3 suspension! $2000 well spent but anyways im having an argument with fellow friends about getting front and rear camber kits! heres the thing ive heard that you dont need to get camber kits when you lower your car? any input? if so and i do need to buy them what are some good brands, now i know everyone says skunk 2 is the best but what you dont know is well once skunk2 used to be good but now that they have gotten so popular they have lowered their standards of quality and most of their parts are outsourced by china or taiwan whatever! crap so id like to buy a good quality Made in america! so lets here it thanks
I personaly hate camber. I bought ingalls front inner upper control arm anchors that are adjustable. Im about 2 inches lower than stock and with them all the way out i have .5 degree. I adjusted them in to get 1.5. I think the ingalls is the best they come with poly bushings and you still use oem control arms and ball joints a big plus in my book. I wouldnt trust those flimsy looking skunk2 upper control arms. for both fronts it costed me 120.
Most camber kits are garbage, and they aren't really necessary either unless you are doing either an extreme drop or need to control your camber for some reason (i.e. you want to go hellaflush or you are a serious road course racer).
Because camber wear is rarely an issue for cars with reasonable drops, 99% of Honda drivers don't need camber kits.
Because camber wear is rarely an issue for cars with reasonable drops, 99% of Honda drivers don't need camber kits.
well to answer your question im not rich like you were i can go and buy all the japanese parts on my car. And also the parts that i need most of the japanese companies dont even make so id rather have american made parts than cheap china brand stuff or worse mexico made parts just saying
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Not wanting to support outsourced labor working under unethical conditions with low pay, horrible quality control, and despicable environmental practices, and making an effort to support American manufacturing? Makes sense to me. Not all Taiwan/China factories are like that but some certainly are. When I can afford it I would by far rather buy from countries with good labor practices.
Well when you put it that way OK. BUT 99% of our products are imported anyways. one thing to note though, just because you dont buy it everyone else still will. but o well i guess every little bit helps if that makes you sleep better.
Most camber kits are garbage, and they aren't really necessary either unless you are doing either an extreme drop or need to control your camber for some reason (i.e. you want to go hellaflush or you are a serious road course racer).
Because camber wear is rarely an issue for cars with reasonable drops, 99% of Honda drivers don't need camber kits.
Because camber wear is rarely an issue for cars with reasonable drops, 99% of Honda drivers don't need camber kits.
YES you need to correct your camber. It is important for steering and handling purposes, and it will save you from buying tires once a month. if your going to spend two grand on suspension why not finish it off. Im using Skunk2 Pro uper control arms, they are a nice quality part. had my stock lowers narrowed 7/8 of an inch to make everything proper. just my opinion but you might as well buy some e-gay suspension if your not going to finish it right.
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YES you need to correct your camber. It is important for steering and handling purposes, and it will save you from buying tires once a month. if your going to spend two grand on suspension why not finish it off. Im using Skunk2 Pro uper control arms, they are a nice quality part. had my stock lowers narrowed 7/8 of an inch to make everything proper. just my opinion but you might as well buy some e-gay suspension if your not going to finish it right.
Camber doesn't cause major tire wear. I had no camber correction on my Si when it was lowered. I didn't get any excess uneven tire wear because the camber wasn't that far out of wack and the toe was fixed at an alignment shop.
Toe is what kills tires. When you lower Civics of the 88-00 vintage, the front toes out and the rear toes in as negative camber increases. Negative camber with excess toe OUT will cause ridiculously fast tire wear. Correct the toe and you'll be fine.
The amount of uneven wear caused purely by reasonable amounts of camber (between -1 and -3 degrees) is negligible. There might be a difference of about 1/32'' between the inside and outside edges...but that's nothing.
I run about -3.5 degrees on the rear of my S2000 with VERY little uneven wear. I run -3.8 degrees on the front of my ITR with very little uneven wear. On both cars, the outside edges of the tires don't touch the ground. Although, I do track the cars a lot...so maybe that evens some of it out.
In either case, my Si had about -2.7 degrees of camber up front and -2.3 out back. Almost NO uneven wear at all. I drove that thing mostly highway. So it was mostly straight line driving. The toe was set to stock settings. That's what saved my tires.
You'd have to have a ton of neg. camber for it to cause excess tire wear by itself. As a matter of fact, -2 degrees is within spec for the rear of 92-00 civics and 94-01 integras

I use camber kits on my ITR to gain more negative camber than naturally lowering to:
1.) Make the wheels/tires fit under the fenders
2.) Tune the chassis for handling.
I do the same things with my S2000 for the same reasons....but that has stock adjustment bolts.
FWIW, I'm using Skunk2 pro series camber kits on my ITR. The quality is better than anything else out there. The front has low profile forged ball joints and the rear has poly bushings and the build quality is very solid. Again, use the PRO kit. Not the standard kit. Nothing beats OEM quality ball joints....but I couldn't use those to adust camber.
YES you need to correct your camber. It is important for steering and handling purposes, and it will save you from buying tires once a month. if your going to spend two grand on suspension why not finish it off. Im using Skunk2 Pro uper control arms, they are a nice quality part. had my stock lowers narrowed 7/8 of an inch to make everything proper. just my opinion but you might as well buy some e-gay suspension if your not going to finish it right.
depends wat u wanna use ur car for... AND on the integras if u go to low and have aftermarket camber kits they hit the frame so u have to knotch out the shock tower... but if u want good performance and handling lower about 2.5 inches and use stock camber kits at about -2 degrees
Not wanting to support outsourced labor working under unethical conditions with low pay, horrible quality control, and despicable environmental practices, and making an effort to support American manufacturing? Makes sense to me. Not all Taiwan/China factories are like that but some certainly are. When I can afford it I would by far rather buy from countries with good labor practices.
well to answer your question im not rich like you were i can go and buy all the japanese parts on my car. And also the parts that i need most of the japanese companies dont even make so id rather have american made parts than cheap china brand stuff or worse mexico made parts just saying
Plenty of HIGH QUALITY products come from Mexico.
+1 on the Hardrace camber kit or rebuild your old arms with the Hardrace bushings, haven't heard anything bad on them and there product is quality imo.
I just threw Away my skunk 2 front camber kit because the part where the camber adjustment is was bent, replaced it with hardrace and man its a huge difference in beefyness!!hahaa..also put in hardrace bushings all around..huge difference!!i use my car for hpde..there a comparison on here and shows all the measurements and pics of the 2..
i will never drive a lowered honda without camber kits again. 0 toe does not always fix tire issues and straight line stability is so much better when camber is in oem spec.
because i have camber kits, i can run little negative in the front and positive in the rear without having to worry about my tires wearing unevenly. This is a highly preferred setting for aggressive driving.
Right after i lowered my car, i had my toe set to 0 all around and 24k miles later my falken 912 had to be replaced. Those miles were almost all highways and with 4k tire rotations. My current tires have 30k on it and still 75% tread life and tire wear is PERFECT.
i have skunk 2 pro series and SPC rear camber kit. fantastic!
because i have camber kits, i can run little negative in the front and positive in the rear without having to worry about my tires wearing unevenly. This is a highly preferred setting for aggressive driving.
Right after i lowered my car, i had my toe set to 0 all around and 24k miles later my falken 912 had to be replaced. Those miles were almost all highways and with 4k tire rotations. My current tires have 30k on it and still 75% tread life and tire wear is PERFECT.
i have skunk 2 pro series and SPC rear camber kit. fantastic!
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Newark/Bay Area, CA., USA
I think it all really depends on how low you are, what size wheels you're on, and if you care about camber or not (form/function). Do you want your car to look really good, or do you want it to handle really good. Its hard finding the balance, but to each their own since everyone has their own tastes and preference. If you find yourself going through tires every month due to bad camber, then you can either flip your tires, raise your car, or raise up your car a little bit and run a camber kit.
i will never drive a lowered honda without camber kits again. 0 toe does not always fix tire issues and straight line stability is so much better when camber is in oem spec.
because i have camber kits, i can run little negative in the front and positive in the rear without having to worry about my tires wearing unevenly. This is a highly preferred setting for aggressive driving.
Right after i lowered my car, i had my toe set to 0 all around and 24k miles later my falken 912 had to be replaced. Those miles were almost all highways and with 4k tire rotations. My current tires have 30k on it and still 75% tread life and tire wear is PERFECT.
i have skunk 2 pro series and SPC rear camber kit. fantastic!
because i have camber kits, i can run little negative in the front and positive in the rear without having to worry about my tires wearing unevenly. This is a highly preferred setting for aggressive driving.
Right after i lowered my car, i had my toe set to 0 all around and 24k miles later my falken 912 had to be replaced. Those miles were almost all highways and with 4k tire rotations. My current tires have 30k on it and still 75% tread life and tire wear is PERFECT.
i have skunk 2 pro series and SPC rear camber kit. fantastic!
are they falken 912's in the same size and width?
camber kits arent going to affect tire wear much unless you do an extreme drop. keep it close to stock to ensure it, but have the toe set properly and forget about "uneven tire wear"
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