Hey all. Looks like I'm going to have to replace my distributor. I have a 91' Accord EX Wagon, Auto Trans., 2.2L 4 Cyl. PGM-FI fuel Injected Motor. What I have in there currently is a Cardone Select. It's my 2nd one in about 4 years. Evidently they are c@#p. I've been told that I'd be better of getting a used original Honda OEM dizzy than getting a new after market dizzy. From what I've heard for some reason a lot of after market dizzy's just don't play nice with Honda systems. At least older Honda's. Anyway....I have no problem with getting an old used genuine OEM Dizzy but I can't help but think if it's already 20 years old that it could frap out on me at any time. So, before I do that I was just wondering if there WAS any "good" after market brands of dizzy's that any one would recommend? And no, a NEW genuine Honda dizzy is out of the question. Not only can I not afford it right now I also plan on getting rid of this car in the next year or two tops. Thanks in advance.

-B

 

If you're getting rid of the car soon, stick with what you already have.

 

What do you mean exactly? It's faulty, plus I'm talking about a year or two (tops). Are you talking about just replacing the faulty coil and/or ICU sensor in it? At this point I'm done with messing with this particular dizzy and just wanted to know if there was any other respected and trustworthy after market brand of distributors. Otherwise I'm just gonna drop about $60.00-$70.00 on a used genuine Honda OEM dizzy. Thanks for your input though.

-B

 

Sorry was preoccupied when I typed that.

I would go with the used OEM Dizzy, take a look at your local junkyards first.. may find a better deal. Be careful tho!

 

A lot of reman units use cheaper electronics/internals and this is why they continually fail. The housings themselves are not to blame. if you were to replace the ignitor, coil and clean up the inside it should work for many more years.

What is the issue with your distributor?

ICM/ignitor, coil or is it one of the CKP TDC or CYP sensors? The ignitor and could are easily replaced with OEM parts. The three sensors are hard to replace. Other than that they can be cleaned up if htey have been fouled by dirt and oil.

 

It's my TDC sensor (code 8). From everything I've read my understanding is that you can't replace that one. Or, if you try to it's said that you will never get it placed/set exactly right like it comes from the factory and will always have problems with it. I'd rather have a used OEM Honda dizzy than a refurb or new afte market brand. Unless there is a decent aftermarket brand that anyone recommends, hence my original question.

BTW.....what's the difference between the CYP Sensor (Cylinder position) and the TDC Sensor? I know what Top Dead Center is/means, so if the CYP Sensor is for No.#1 Cyl sensor what's the diff.? I only ask because I got that code as well. And...can the CYP sensor be replaced? I have another dizzy I could take one out of but I'm only familiar with the coil, and the Igniter (ICU?), and I think the TDC sensor is below the plate where I have never gone before. Any insights on this? Thanks

-B

 

Did you check to make sure that it isn't a wiring issue, dirty contact or short in the wires?

You can do a fairly simple resistance test on each of the three sensors in the distributor that will tell you if the sensor is good or not.

With the ignition off
Unplug the 8 pin connector from the distributor
Check the resistance between the following wires
CKP = BLU/GRN & BLU/YEL
TDC = ORG/BLU & WHT/BLU
CYP = ORG & WHT
You should see between 350 - 700Ω of resistance. Anything else and the sensor has failed. The magnetic pickup component part of the sensors can be removed from the distributor body, however the toothed wheels are pressed onto the distributor shaft and are a bit harder to get back into the proper timing. This is why most people just buy new housings with everything in them new/refurbished.

As for what does each of the sensors do.
TDC = Determines ignition timing at start up (cranking) and also signals any abnormal crank angle.
CKP = Determines timing for fuel injection and timing of each cylinder and also detects engine speed.
CYP = Detects the position of the No.1 cylinder for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder.

 

Thanks for that info. Ghost. I will perform those tests this weekend. Quick question...I'm still pretty new at using my Multimeter. Which setting, i.e. in the OHMS section do I put the dial/pointer on? 200M, 200K, 20K, 2000, or 200? I have no idea what those numbers represent. No need to explain them all to me, just tell me which one to set it on if ya would please. Thanks.

-B

 

The numbers just mean how many OHMS the meter will be able to read at max.

Honestly I do not think it matters what setting you have it on.

 

As mentioned above. As long as you set it to a number that is above the Ohm range of the given resistance, you are good. In your case. You are looking for a resistance range between 350-700Ohms. The lowest range you posted for you multimeter is 200Ohms, that is too low. Therefor you go to the next range up, which is 2000. That is the one that will work.

 

Thank you good sir.

-B

 

Ok, update....got myself a genuine OEM Honda Dizzy from a salvage yard. Problem solved! Works perfectly now. Fires up immediately and no more surging and no more kiiling out. Thanks one and all for your help.

-B