Hello I have a 100% stock 1997 type r and I bought her almost 2 years ago with about 95,000 Kilometers on the dash(current). I would do the normal testing for vtec every weekend when i drive the car just to make sure it works, until about a 6 months ago where I am having troubles getting the car to get passed 7k rpm the problem is i lose all power to my car and it will jump from 7k straight to 9k rpm. I have done compression tests and its about 150-175 across the board. Have change spark plugs, Cap even went to external MSD Blaster 2 coil, Plug Wires No check engine lights pop on, and for some odd reason i have some black dust all around rear of my car. Was wondering if anybody has any idea about what i can do to test this problem or have experienced this before?


Thanks

 

I'm guessing ignition related. Do you have a friend with another vtec b-series car? Swap distributors and see if the issue goes away.

 

I wish i could i also have a 94 del sol b16 as my DD but distributor is completely different on the type r its bigger, I even have a friend with a 97 GSR which is also smaller. The distributor assembly is bigger on the type r all around.

 

The icm and coil is the same.

 

either you have a bad compression gauge or your engine is in horrible condition. verify which. also, if you used one of those stupid tube to go from the plug to the gauge, ditch it and screw the hose directly to the head.

 

The pressure gauge is brand new from sear, plugged straight into the head. The spark plugs are burning fine and the engine runs strong vtec kicks in and works strong starting at 5.6k rpm. What could be wrong with the engine do you suppose? Currently replaced the IACV, and TPS still same results, Verify ECM is P73, Verify timing is correct per b18c5

 

stock itr compression supposed to be between 220-230 if im not mistaking ....


I had a issues with not going pass 3k rpm , and I replaced the distributor and everything is perfect now ... Try a new dizzy

 

just curious but when did you change the fuel filter last?

put a fuel psi gauge on the car and tape it to the window, drive and see if pressure falls off as the rpms climb

by the way your compression gauge is off. if you have tan plugs and it's not burning a **** ton of oil the gauge is off.

even 100k mile engines in good condition have 200-210psi

new is something like 230-240

i have seen jdm itrs push 250

this is how a compression test should go

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vp7skm5amFM

 

give me you phone number i gat thee money needd your phone number or just sent me a atext 17739979963

 

Sorry i dont understand the post clearly, but the car is not for sale.

 

Fuel filter was replaced every 3 months with oil change (royal purple) along with spark plugs (BOSCH +4) ill try to add the fuel gauge to my car, but in the mean time ill make a video of the compression to post up.

Thanks

 

LMAO, He thought your selling the car for 7 grand


When you changed the TPS did you calibrate it? (My brother had a smilier problem back in the day because of this)

 

Check Cylinder Compression, Do a Leak Down Test on the Valves. Also Is your Engine Breathing ok, Check all the Crankcase breather hoses, PCM Valves Etc.

 

Get rid of the Bosch spark plugs and go back to stock plugs/ngk's

 

the black dust on the rear is because she is burning oil. and with those low comp numbers looks like new rings is in your near future

 

actually, the post about the tps has something to it. i will only use oe tps sensors and you do need to check voltage at WOT and at idle. if that's off it can cause *** loads of driveablity isues

 

Clutch slipping?

 

OK this is what we've done to the vehicle.

Replace the Clutch Assy last year If the clutch is slipping at a constant speed the RPM would be fluctuating and would not effect not going pass 7K RPM. Replace both Clutch Master and Slave.

Replace stock w/Aluminum Cool Air w/KN filter.

The TPS is New from Acura and Adjusted to 0.5V at Idle and 4.5 at WOT.

Already performed and Pass the Leak Down Test If the Rings or Valve are bad I would have a bad Leak Down Test. Compression test with 5-6 turn like Video MAX is 240.

The Bosch 4+ is about one of the best Plugs We have these on all the DeSol VTEC and all our other vehicles. Bosch Iridium is probably Just as good as the NGK Iridium good for longevity and not really that good for performance. I even try the E3 plugs same results even try copper plugs.

Could not replace Dis because it's larger than normal VTEC, removed the coil Replace Cap with MSD cap w/coil wire. Place new MSD Blaster 3 Coil on inter fender, Rewire to new Coil position with new 16Gauge wire. Replace GK (Good Known) ICM. Replace Spark Plug Wires w/9mm NGK Blue wires including coil wires.

Replace the Idle Air Control Valve w/Acrua new unit.

Replace Vehicle Speed Sensor w/Acrua new unit (Was told that If VSS is bad RPM and VTEC would be bad).

Fuel Filter was replace only 2K Kilometer old.

Replace Mobile One Synthetic 10W-30W oil to Synthetic Royal Purple 10W-30W Oil only 2K Kilometer old.

Just had the Fuel injectors clean and pressure tested at 52PSI.

Re-Torque Head and Intake to specs.

Computer removed and Verified as P73.

Replace Evap on fire wall.

With everything listed the Car still will not go above 7K RPM while driving but will go above 7K RPM sitting and throttle press.

DAD.

 

The dist is the same as any other obd2 b series dist. It's NO different for the r. Try the one off the 97 Gsr. Should work fine.

 

x2

this is absolutely what i would do next after everything you said

 

Have you confirmed that you're seeing the cam switch? Wondering if maybe the VTEC solenoid isn't working?

Christian

 

can't you test these with 12v? i've never done it but swore i remember reading about a signal test

 

If you put 12v to the solenoid you should hear it click if it is working.

 

Yes. 12v directly to the single wire "green/yellow" stripe will energize the solenoid. Don't get any crazy ideas. This is only usefull for testing.

 

perma vtak killer yo