Hi HT looking to do the kswap as cheap as humanly possible within reason. Obviously used parts are the cheapest route. Have a look at my list and let me know of any other tips you guys have for saving some cash (diy's old oem parts that work etc)


ECU Immobilizer bypass $180
HASport mounts $300 used
Karcepts Shifter box for EK $250 w/ buddy club SS
RSX shifter cables – Comes with swap
Suja 1 Clutch line kit $50
driveshaft shop Level 0 axles* $319*(don't wanna cheap out here)
Ktuned throttle cable w/ steel bracket: $80
Ktuned swap harness $329
Ktuned IACV plate - $50
Hybrid Coolant temp adapter - $10
AEM Fpr* $120
DIY fuel line kit - $50?? *( are the kits worth it?)
DC sports swap Header* - $150 Used
AEM Swap CAI - $200
Custom exhaust w/ vibrant muffler $300
Rad relocate to driver side (NO AC or PS) – Free
12” Slim fan - $70
Rad and heater hose kits - $50
Karcepts AC and PS Delete kit - $195 (is there a cheaper way to do this?)*

$2583 before tax to get the motor in the car. K-tuned turn key kit is looking like a decent option at 3k with all new parts.
Anyone that has done this swap with some insider tips pls share. Thanks!

 

K-tuned is a fantastic company, i'd just go with their turn-key package if you could afford it.

 

-instead of the immobilizer bypass and paying for a ecu look at k swap ecus from
k20tuned.com

-aem cai intake is a waste can make one cheaper (use a velocity stack)

-no need for ac/ps delete you can use an ep3 idler pulley

 

If you can afford it, don't cheap out. You'll end up changing those parts out down the road.

• The DC header you posted there, for example, will be a big bottleneck when you try to extract power from the motor.
• Remove the IACV block off plate from the list. Your car will not idle correctly and should only be used for track-duty.
• You can also use RSX axles with b-series outers if you really wanna cheap out. OEM axles should hold up fine.
• Do some research on hoses. My 6 year old Aeroquip Startlite hoses are no longer good and need to be changed out. These cost me roughly $150 with all the associated fittings and are by no means low quality hoses. Read this article: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e..._warnings.html

That's all I can think of right now. Other than the issues listed above, your list looks pretty good.

 

You could use an Accord shifter that can bolt on top of the tunnel. It'll sit higher but you won't have to run cables under the car.

 

Ditch the buddy club box and just go with a used oem one. Also it helps a LOT if you don't mind buying used parts off of other various *cough* k20a based forums. Tons of swap parts out there from people that started but couldn't finish.

 

Its really not worth doin the low budget swap from all I've learned from guys doin these swaps. You'll be much more satisfied with the end product if you stuck it out. But anything you choose to do is totally your own choice I hope it works out well for you.

 

any updates on this swap. I just learned a few thing. I will start collecting my parts here pretty soon too.

 

This should help shed some light...

http://www.hybrid-racing.com/epic3/

 

why cheap out you should have just built a b20vtec that car wont make the power you think it will without kpro

 

I've considered a k-tuned swap package. also hybrid racing has packages and you can call and make a custom package if you already have some parts or etc.

I've considered my list heavily but I cant start until the cars body is done right and painted gold....its only fair for the GoldieWang to be gold lol...