i think i'm having some fuel problems. i know i have good spark, compression, timing etc. but cylinders 1 and 2 doesn't seem to fire. it has worked a couple times though. i figured it was the spark plugs so i got new ones and plugs in cylinder 1 and 2 seem clean like new and 3 and 4 don't. i've tried different distributors, plug wires, and ecus and nothing seems to change. i've switched injectors around and still have the same problem. could my fuel rail be clogged or would a bad resistor box do this? when i pull out injectors i also notice more fuel leaking from injectors 3 and 4 than 1 and 2.

my setup consist of the following in a stock 90 integra ls
-pr3 head
-b18c1 block
-ctr pistons
-obd1 converted w/rywire harness
-chipped p06 with a basemap(also have a chipped p28)
-using bkr7e v power ngk plugs
everything else is stock from my LS

here's a pic of what the plugs look like after a few minutes of running

 

which injectors/fuel rail are you using? if you're using the obd1 saturated injectors, you can't use the resistor box.
and you've checked and you're getting spark to cylinders 1 and 2 plugs?

if so, and you're using the peak and hold (non-obd) injectors with the resistor box, or saturated without box, check for injector pulse at cylinders 1 and 2. use a 194 marker bulb

 

stock non obd ls injectors, fuel rail, and resistor box. and yes i've checked many times before for spark at all four plugs. i'll check again tomorrow. and to check for pulse i would just use a test light with the bulb you're telling me to use?

 

Do you have power at the injectors, lead that is the same color on all injectors should be hot [12.5V+] when ign. switch is on. 94

 

it's reading 11.81v on the leads that are the same color. and my batt. is reading 11.89v. i did the continuity test like how you said when i had the no start problem.


and i'm not getting a steady reading. it'll stay around .34-.4 for a little then just rise all the way up. even if i'm jumping my fan switch it shouldn't do this should it? and should all the ecu plugs be disconnected?

 

okay so i just started it up again after testing, and all four cylinders fire again. drives good other than it bogs down a little but i still got a little vaccum leak at the iacv so i'm getting a second bolt for it now and i'll let you guys know what happens but it's my dd so i would still like suggestions on what went wrong. don't want it losing power again while i'm driving it.

 

probably a bad connection. sometimes disconnecting and reconnecting can give the pins better contact

when you were checking continuity, where were the test leads connected? and what were you ranged at on the multimeter? and you set it to read ohms, yes?
.4ohms is far from continuity. if it starts now, the testing must not have been done correctly.
and yes, you want all pcm connectors disconnected and battery neg disconnected to protect the pcm. since testing continuity sends a voltage signal out. the meter then reads the voltage drop and calculates resistance. that voltage signal can damage a sensitive module like the pcm. so whenever testing resistance, you want the circuit disconnected

 

test leads were connected at the diff. color wires on the injector clips to the jumper harness. and yeah i checked it for resistance, when i had my no start problems it was a lot lower than now. range on the meter was 20m, not sure what that means. and when i did disconnect all plugs to ecu it did seem steady, i'll have to check again to be sure. only thing i did different was replace two injector gaskets at the top of the injector and switch injectors around again. i also notice when i plugged in injector 1 clip it lost pressure. i'm thinking it's an electrical problem though because if you remember helping me with my no start problem my old p06 didn't work but now it works fine. put that second bolt on the iacv and still bogs out a little so i'm thinking it's still not getting fuel at times. i'll recheck resistance in a little but other than that what should i check for?

 

bump.. anyone? still bogs a little and idle fluctuates between 800-1800 rpm. i really don't think i have a vacuum leak, everything is plugged up. when idle drops it sounds like it's running on 2 cylinders again then rises up and sounds normal.

 

checked codes?

 

no codes. i'm going to try and get a fuel pressure tester tomorrow and check that. pulled my plugs out again and one is fouled

 

try disconnecting the o2 sensor. see how it idles then

 

disconnected it and no change in idle. it's a new one from denso though

 

okay so i just drove it to see when it bogs and only does it at low rpm. starts to go away around 4k but still bogs a little there. also checked distributor timing and it's getting a miss now but didn't when it was running on 2 cylinders. when i check the mark on the timing cover and pulley the mark on the pulley moves toward the firewall when rpm drops at idle.

 

did you check your fuel filter? might be clogged

on a side note...your engine looks to be burning some oil.

 

yeah it gets fuel past the fuel filter. and it is rebuilt with about 5 miles on it so i assume it's because rings haven't sealed yet? doesn't smoke or seem to loose any oil though

 

think i got it. swapped distributors/ecu with my bro and problem swapped to his car. weird thing is it didn't drive to bad on his car. still getting a small miss though.