just got my car put back together. it's a obd1 converted da9 with rebuilt gsr block and b16 head. it just cranks over and doesn't sound like it's trying to start. i checked the grounds and they're all on. all sensors are plugged up and i'm sure it's getting fuel. i can hear the fuel pump kick on. i'm about to check if it's getting any spark. but other than no spark what could it be? motor was timed before it was dropped in also

 

check the codes
check spark
check compression
in that order
what pcm you running?

 

p06 chipped on crome
i didn't get any codes
i'll check spark and compression as soon as i can and let you know what happens

 

Also check for fuel, [to the cylinders] just because the fuel pump runs does not mean the injectors are working.

Try starting the engine, let it crank a few times, immediately remove a spark plug, and inspect the end, is it "wet" with gas, does it smell of gas? 94

 

^^good call. yes. spark, compression, and fuel
the basics

 

okay so i just checked for spark and all four are getting spark. and i'm on my way to pick up a compression tester now. checked for fuel also and plugs aren't wet or smell so that must be it? is it possible it could be the ecu? it didn't work on my brothers car either

 

crack the fuel line at the rail. place a rag under, and cycle the key on once.
if no fuel, check/clean your ground cluster at the thermostat housing.

 

just checked compression and 1 and 2 is 215, 3 is 205, and 4 is 210 so compression so be okay right? i checked the fuel line at the filter and it's getting fuel if that's what you're talking about

 

immediately after cranking, pull a spark plug and see if it's saturated with fuel. it should be. if not, you'll need to check for injector pulse.
if it is, check for spark

 

okay so i'm pretty sure i figured out why it won't start. when i prime the fuel pump and crank it only cylinder 4 injector is working. before i pulled my stock LS it was working fine. i am also getting spark to all four but now i have no clue why it's doing this. shouldn't it have thrown a code? i'm also using stock obd0 fuel system

 

just checked timing and timing is still good also. any help would be appreciated... really want to get this thing running

 

which injectors are you using?

 

Check for power at the injectors, lead that is the same color on all injectors shold have 12V+ when ign. switch is on and in start/crank position.

If you have power at the injectors the problem is no ground pulse from ECU/ECM, check continuity of injector control leads, [lead that is a diff. color at each injector] between injector plug and the ECU/ECM.

Also confirm you have power on both IPG1 and IPG2 at the ECU/ECM.

However. if ECU/ECM did not work in your brothers car, "is it possible it could be the ecu? it didn't work on my brothers car either" it is a good bet the problem is the ECU/ECM.

Did you try your brothers ECU/ECM in your car? 94

 

stock obd0 ls injectors

do i just check them with a multimeter? i'll have to pick one up tomorrow i don't have one. but i haven't tried my brothers ecu but i switched back to my stock pr4 and it did the same but only injector 3 worked. i'm going to try the chipped p06 on another car tomorrow also.
thanks for all the help guys

 

To test for power you can use a 12V test light or a meter, to do the continuity test you will need a meter, [could be done with a 12V test light, but easier with a meter].

Oxidized connections is a common problem on older cars, or maybe just a harness plug not plugged in properly, the continuity test will tell you if there is a problem.

Disconnect your batt. neg.(-).
Unplug the injector connector and the ECU/ECM plugs, find the 4 injector control leads, on the ECU/ECM plug, connect one probe of the meter on an injector control lead pin and the other probe to the corresponding injector plug pin, there should be full continuity, if your meter has the continuity setting the meter will "beep" at you and the readout should be very close to 000.

If not, find the bad connection. 94

 

ok cool thanks a lot. i'll let you know what happens when i test it tomorrow

 

just checked my injectors and ipg1/2 for power and they all read 11.81v. is that right? i haven't done the continuity test yet because i need an extra set of hands, but if those are okay then i probably have a bad ground, correct?

 

They should all read 12.5V but the diff. may be a low batt. or a meter that is not "zeroed" or calibrated, check the voltage at the batt., [pos.(+) and neg.(-) posts] if it is close to 11.81V then all the others are correct.

It may be a bad ground to the ECU/ECM, the ECU/ECM supplies the ground pulse for the injectors, but you said, "it didn't work on my brothers car either" so it is unlikely a grounding problem, unless your brother has the same grounding problem. 94

 

well the batt. is a few days old and reads 12.2v. i just finished the continuity test and injector 1 is .08, injector 4 and 2 is .02, and injector 3 is .05.

and i'm sure my brothers car doesn't have a grounding problem it starts up everyday with his ecu. my ecu has a basemap w/advanced ignition for ctr pistons if that helps with anything.

 

11.81V is close enough to 12.2V, the diff. will be the resistance of wire and connections between the batt. and the injector plug and IPG pins at the ECU/ECM, so your good there.

"my ecu has a basemap w/advanced ignition for ctr pistons if that helps with anything" that should make no diff, for injector pulse.

Also continuity is good enough for a ground pulse to get through.

Looking more and more like the ECU/ECM is the problem.

Have you checked to see if there are any codes stored?94

 

yeah nothing comes up. after i switch the ignition to "on" position, cel turns off like normal and when i connect the two wires cel stays on which means no codes right?

 

I had the same issue, I thought my grounds where all on, but it turned out that I had grounded my 'thermostat' ground to the wrong part of it... make sure that one has good contact, made a hell of a difference

 

solid cel is a pcm code.
try your brothers pcm since it's known good

 

damn it! i should've mentioned that. he's got a pw0 ecu though and i'm running ctr piston you think it'd idle fine?(it will be first start up) i can probably get a hold of an obd1 LS ecu also. if i did run the pw0 all i would have to do is just switch back to my obd0 o2 sensor right?

 

i thought you said you tried your pcm in your brothers car though.
and the distributor pin out is different from non-obd to obd1. the icm wire is a different color i believe. or do you have a distributor conversion harness? if so, just remove it, remove your pcm conversion harness and install the pw0. it doesn't need to run well. just enough to confirm that it is a problem with the pcm.