JDM JRSC DC2R engine rebuild
Hi all,
Im about to rebuild the engine on my DC2 and would like to seek some opinions. Im running an LHT cooled JRSC setup at 9psi.

I bought the car stock and before I put on the JRSC, we measured the compression and it was 215psi @ all 4 cylinders.
Not long after the JRSC was put in, engine started losing power. Compression started to drop on 2 of the cylinders significantly. I thought it was piston failure due to a bad tune.
Checked the compression before taking apart the engine

After taking apart the engine, we found out that the pistons and cylinders looked fine.
The loss of compression was from the valves. My cyl head has a ghetto local port job when I bought the car and they even cut off the valve guides. That probably caused the valves to wear out.



So Ive decided to get a stock head, replace the valves, springs, retainers.
Ive come up with this list of parts for the engine rebuild. Would like to think what you guys think.
1. CP pistons at 11:1 compression (10.5-10.7 on a Type R head)
2. Manley rods
3. Supertech valves
4. Supertech valve springs/retainers
5. ARP head studs
6. Gates timing belt
7. Walboro pump

Im about to rebuild the engine on my DC2 and would like to seek some opinions. Im running an LHT cooled JRSC setup at 9psi.

I bought the car stock and before I put on the JRSC, we measured the compression and it was 215psi @ all 4 cylinders.
Not long after the JRSC was put in, engine started losing power. Compression started to drop on 2 of the cylinders significantly. I thought it was piston failure due to a bad tune.
Checked the compression before taking apart the engine

After taking apart the engine, we found out that the pistons and cylinders looked fine.
The loss of compression was from the valves. My cyl head has a ghetto local port job when I bought the car and they even cut off the valve guides. That probably caused the valves to wear out.



So Ive decided to get a stock head, replace the valves, springs, retainers.
Ive come up with this list of parts for the engine rebuild. Would like to think what you guys think.
1. CP pistons at 11:1 compression (10.5-10.7 on a Type R head)
2. Manley rods
3. Supertech valves
4. Supertech valve springs/retainers
5. ARP head studs
6. Gates timing belt
7. Walboro pump

Last edited by beat; Apr 1, 2012 at 10:17 AM.
I wouldn't go higher than 11:1 C/R. 8-10psi should good for 240-260 @ the wheels tuned. 170-190 on the torque. Make sure you get a good tuner, these things are known for detonation if timing isn't kept in check. That's what killed my C5 with the Jackson. GL on your build.
I wouldn't go higher than 11:1 C/R. 8-10psi should good for 240-260 @ the wheels tuned. 170-190 on the torque. Make sure you get a good tuner, these things are known for detonation if timing isn't kept in check. That's what killed my C5 with the Jackson. GL on your build.
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what's wrong with the stock pistons?
get the bottom end honed, proper rings and bearings
stock head, (p & p if you want, but do it right this time), stock everything else
anything aftermarket wouldn't benefit you a great margin since ur running LHT JRSC, stock spec imo would last you the longest
of course, a goood tune with s300
get the bottom end honed, proper rings and bearings
stock head, (p & p if you want, but do it right this time), stock everything else
anything aftermarket wouldn't benefit you a great margin since ur running LHT JRSC, stock spec imo would last you the longest
of course, a goood tune with s300
what's wrong with the stock pistons?
get the bottom end honed, proper rings and bearings
stock head, (p & p if you want, but do it right this time), stock everything else
anything aftermarket wouldn't benefit you a great margin since ur running LHT JRSC, stock spec imo would last you the longest
of course, a goood tune with s300
get the bottom end honed, proper rings and bearings
stock head, (p & p if you want, but do it right this time), stock everything else
anything aftermarket wouldn't benefit you a great margin since ur running LHT JRSC, stock spec imo would last you the longest
of course, a goood tune with s300
So with that said, the forged internals will be more robust and hopefully will offer some buffer against this inexperience.
what's wrong with the stock pistons?
get the bottom end honed, proper rings and bearings
stock head, (p & p if you want, but do it right this time), stock everything else
anything aftermarket wouldn't benefit you a great margin since ur running LHT JRSC, stock spec imo would last you the longest
of course, a goood tune with s300
get the bottom end honed, proper rings and bearings
stock head, (p & p if you want, but do it right this time), stock everything else
anything aftermarket wouldn't benefit you a great margin since ur running LHT JRSC, stock spec imo would last you the longest
of course, a goood tune with s300
couldn't agree more on going forged and going for 10:6-1 compression. the extra PWC and rattle on start up is worth not worrying.
also, op, that head doesn't look that abnormal. did you do a vacuum test to see if the engine maintained 22- 23" of vacuum? it totally could be the case, but a lot of R's on boost, myself included wind up with similar compression numbers due to cracked ringlands. even a hairline fracture really increases blow by
when i tried to boost my R engine even with a good tune i had similar compression numbers after the first week.
I did not do a vacuum test, never heard of it. How is it done?
The problem should be from the valves cuz they were worn. Ill take some pics and post them up later. Maybe the valve seals were bad, maybe the cut valve guides contributed to the problem too, but oil was leaking through the valves. You can see the valves were all oily and dirty in the pics..
The problem should be from the valves cuz they were worn. Ill take some pics and post them up later. Maybe the valve seals were bad, maybe the cut valve guides contributed to the problem too, but oil was leaking through the valves. You can see the valves were all oily and dirty in the pics..
f'k that, all it takes is one good batch of detonation to crack a stock ringland. oe itr pistons are weak and while fine for NA apps, dangerous on boost
couldn't agree more on going forged and going for 10:6-1 compression. the extra PWC and rattle on start up is worth not worrying.
also, op, that head doesn't look that abnormal. did you do a vacuum test to see if the engine maintained 22- 23" of vacuum? it totally could be the case, but a lot of R's on boost, myself included wind up with similar compression numbers due to cracked ringlands. even a hairline fracture really increases blow by
when i tried to boost my R engine even with a good tune i had similar compression numbers after the first week.
couldn't agree more on going forged and going for 10:6-1 compression. the extra PWC and rattle on start up is worth not worrying.
also, op, that head doesn't look that abnormal. did you do a vacuum test to see if the engine maintained 22- 23" of vacuum? it totally could be the case, but a lot of R's on boost, myself included wind up with similar compression numbers due to cracked ringlands. even a hairline fracture really increases blow by
when i tried to boost my R engine even with a good tune i had similar compression numbers after the first week.
I did not do a vacuum test, never heard of it. How is it done?
The problem should be from the valves cuz they were worn. Ill take some pics and post them up later. Maybe the valve seals were bad, maybe the cut valve guides contributed to the problem too, but oil was leaking through the valves. You can see the valves were all oily and dirty in the pics..
The problem should be from the valves cuz they were worn. Ill take some pics and post them up later. Maybe the valve seals were bad, maybe the cut valve guides contributed to the problem too, but oil was leaking through the valves. You can see the valves were all oily and dirty in the pics..
f'k that, all it takes is one good batch of detonation to crack a stock ringland. oe itr pistons are weak and while fine for NA apps, dangerous on boost
couldn't agree more on going forged and going for 10:6-1 compression. the extra PWC and rattle on start up is worth not worrying.
also, op, that head doesn't look that abnormal. did you do a vacuum test to see if the engine maintained 22- 23" of vacuum? it totally could be the case, but a lot of R's on boost, myself included wind up with similar compression numbers due to cracked ringlands. even a hairline fracture really increases blow by
.
couldn't agree more on going forged and going for 10:6-1 compression. the extra PWC and rattle on start up is worth not worrying.
also, op, that head doesn't look that abnormal. did you do a vacuum test to see if the engine maintained 22- 23" of vacuum? it totally could be the case, but a lot of R's on boost, myself included wind up with similar compression numbers due to cracked ringlands. even a hairline fracture really increases blow by
.
I did not do a vacuum test, never heard of it. How is it done?
The problem should be from the valves cuz they were worn. Ill take some pics and post them up later. Maybe the valve seals were bad, maybe the cut valve guides contributed to the problem too, but oil was leaking through the valves. You can see the valves were all oily and dirty in the pics..
The problem should be from the valves cuz they were worn. Ill take some pics and post them up later. Maybe the valve seals were bad, maybe the cut valve guides contributed to the problem too, but oil was leaking through the valves. You can see the valves were all oily and dirty in the pics..
HK FTW for shopping and eating, but definitely FTMFL with regards to car tuning.....
Haha!!
Thanks for the reply with some Chinese characters. But sorry I can't really read Chinese!!!!
Am I accurate to say that my car will idle at a Wierd vacuum rate if there is a vacuum leak? If so, what numbers should I be reading on my boost gauge?
Cheers.
Thanks for the reply with some Chinese characters. But sorry I can't really read Chinese!!!!
Am I accurate to say that my car will idle at a Wierd vacuum rate if there is a vacuum leak? If so, what numbers should I be reading on my boost gauge?
Cheers.
Took a few pics of the valves and pistons and the cut off valve guide.
Here is the intake valve, notice how its all oily and dirty. Also, the silver part on the edge, it kinda has a concaved groove when you feel it.






Here is the intake valve, notice how its all oily and dirty. Also, the silver part on the edge, it kinda has a concaved groove when you feel it.






We didn't put every piston that was removed under a microscope but the ringlands all looked good to the naked eye. The motor has had an odd history with the original P73-00s removed in favor of some P30s.
Don't worry about the vacuum test - you won't find it or many other standard procedures in Hong Kong. The valve seat was smashed pretty flat. Without relying on a vac. test, the basic brake kleen/gasoline test poured into the combustion chamber led to the discovery of leaks.
HK FTW for shopping and eating, but definitely FTMFL with regards to car tuning.....
Don't worry about the vacuum test - you won't find it or many other standard procedures in Hong Kong. The valve seat was smashed pretty flat. Without relying on a vac. test, the basic brake kleen/gasoline test poured into the combustion chamber led to the discovery of leaks.
HK FTW for shopping and eating, but definitely FTMFL with regards to car tuning.....
You have to experience what's in HK to really know. It's sad. There aren't many good tuners cuz there really isn't a need for one. Everything is marketing based. Ppl don't give a **** of their stuff performs. They just wan show off.
How I wish my car was stateside.
How I wish my car was stateside.
I totally disagree with your opinion about car tuning in HK. there are ton of good tuners over there. Comparing to the tuning scene in the U.S, HK has higher barrier to open a tuning shop. Their quality can campare to Japanese. In U.S., tuners just rely on common theories instead of "real-track experience". I'm from California and that's what I think.
The main reason being HK has no track. It's heavily reliant on selling via hype. The popular consensus is "it's a Japanese car, obviously use Japanese parts." While there are obviously some US tuners who rely on theory, that theory can be quickly proven at the dragstrip/track...not something so easily done in HK.
I'm not saying all JDM parts are junk but there's a reason why the Japanese tuners specialize in certain realms - like handling and balance while the American tuners are known for producing power.
B-series development has all but stopped in Japan but still continues (albeit much slower now) in the states.
Even local HK tuners admit this very fact. Yeah my original opinion came on strong but you can't deny that the other significant fact is that any modifications are technically illegal in HK, so the scope of experience is diminished vs the those in the states who can more or less, freely modify as they please.
I'm not saying all JDM parts are junk but there's a reason why the Japanese tuners specialize in certain realms - like handling and balance while the American tuners are known for producing power.
B-series development has all but stopped in Japan but still continues (albeit much slower now) in the states.
.
B-series development has all but stopped in Japan but still continues (albeit much slower now) in the states.
.
all ears
The B is old.
The K is the new darling of the aftermarket and most parts now are being developed for the K both stateside and in other markets.
When was the last time Toda/JUN came out with a cam for the B?
I'm pretty sure Skunk2 and their pro-series would put all off the shelf JDM cams to shame nowadays.
The K is the new darling of the aftermarket and most parts now are being developed for the K both stateside and in other markets.
When was the last time Toda/JUN came out with a cam for the B?
I'm pretty sure Skunk2 and their pro-series would put all off the shelf JDM cams to shame nowadays.
we can agree to disagree.
The main reason being HK has no track. It's heavily reliant on selling via hype. The popular consensus is "it's a Japanese car, obviously use Japanese parts." While there are obviously some US tuners who rely on theory, that theory can be quickly proven at the dragstrip/track...not something so easily done in HK.
I'm not saying all JDM parts are junk but there's a reason why the Japanese tuners specialize in certain realms - like handling and balance while the American tuners are known for producing power.
B-series development has all but stopped in Japan but still continues (albeit much slower now) in the states.
Even local HK tuners admit this very fact. Yeah my original opinion came on strong but you can't deny that the other significant fact is that any modifications are technically illegal in HK, so the scope of experience is diminished vs the those in the states who can more or less, freely modify as they please.
The main reason being HK has no track. It's heavily reliant on selling via hype. The popular consensus is "it's a Japanese car, obviously use Japanese parts." While there are obviously some US tuners who rely on theory, that theory can be quickly proven at the dragstrip/track...not something so easily done in HK.
I'm not saying all JDM parts are junk but there's a reason why the Japanese tuners specialize in certain realms - like handling and balance while the American tuners are known for producing power.
B-series development has all but stopped in Japan but still continues (albeit much slower now) in the states.
Even local HK tuners admit this very fact. Yeah my original opinion came on strong but you can't deny that the other significant fact is that any modifications are technically illegal in HK, so the scope of experience is diminished vs the those in the states who can more or less, freely modify as they please.
shouldn't we be listening to the guy who actually lives in HK?
i'm not sure about you guys but i have no clue what the HK market is like
i really feel for beat though. my jdm itr met the same fate under boost
i'm not sure about you guys but i have no clue what the HK market is like
i really feel for beat though. my jdm itr met the same fate under boost
Excellent opinion! but I'm saying that the HK industry has higher quality overall in either car tuning or repairing than the states do, you are getting away from my point of view. It's fact that the states have easier access for tuners to prove their so-called theories, but longer freeways, higher speed limit, and linear regulations on mods do not necessarily mean higher tuning quality. Good tuners will not be limited by geographical disadvantges.
There is no question in my mind there are knowledgeable shops here but they can't help but wish there was a track here to prove their mettle. There isn't even a drag strip here. The quality you speak of I feel is how a car is prepared/painted/parts are installed. I will give you that, but beyond the actual install of components, having somebody here who knows what they're doing with the ECU is few and far between.
Why do you suppose they still fly people over from Thailand/Japan/USA to TUNE the cars here? It's because they can't do it or don't understand what's going on. And that here, is the actual limitation of a tuner due to the exact geographical location of HK.
Again, I'm speaking specifically about ECU tuning and engine tuning/assembly.
beat and I live here, he knows all about the tuning market based on his own personal experiences and he's had to go beyond the local market to seek information. Nobody even knew about the LHT aftercooler here. They weren't even aware of Hondata till a few years ago as they always felt and some STILL feel a static ECU *read N1* from Mugen or Spoon is the 'best' for their Honda.


