Dear Honda-Tech.com Members:

As a Honda-Tech.com sponsor, Cobalt is pleased to announce the release of our new high-performance brake fluid: COBALT SUPER XRF. (Will be in stock in 2 weeks.)

COBALT SUPER XRF brake fluid has a dry boiling point of 620F, and a wet boiling point of 425F. Based on these two figures, COBALT SUPER XRF may appear to be similar in performance other high-performance racing brake fluids. The keys to the COBALT SUPER XRF are:

(1) very low hygroscopic nature (very slow moisture absorption, allowing extended fluid change/bleed intervals) -- suitable for use in ABS

(2) very low compressibility (result is a more consistent, firmer pedal feel)

(3) extremely low vapor rate

(4) rapid vapor absorption, yielding faster fluid recovery times (this is analagous to a brake pad compound's fade recovery time)


More information on the new COBALT SUPER XRF is available on our website at: http://www.cobaltfriction.com/prod-cat/brake_fluids.htm

The COBALT SUPER XRF formulation is currently being used, under a different trade name, by many NASCAR, CART, and ALMS race teams. The McLaren West Mercedes F1 race team also uses this brake fluid formulation.

COBALT SUPER XRF is available in 12oz. metal containers for $12.95/tin.

*****

COBALT is dedicated to provided Honda-Tech.com members with the very best in brake system technical support/advice, brake compound selection and knowledge, and exceptional customer service. It is our goal to be the first name in brakes for the Honda-Tech.com Community.

Best Regards,

Andie Lin


[Modified by cobalt, 11:03 AM 10/11/2002]

 

Sounds good. I guess you changed your mind about it being price between ATE and Motul...

 

Sounds like a reasonable price for what you get. It will only be available from Cobalt directly, correct?

 

Andie - for those of us who don't know any better...what is "vapor rate?"

 

As well as hygroscopic nature and vapor absorption.

 

"the molecules of a liquid are in constant motion,
some moving fast, others slowly. Occasionally one of
these molecules (due to this movement) has enough
kinetic energy to escape from the liquid's surface
and become a molecule of vapor"

low rate = good
high rate = bad



[Modified by Willard, 1:20 PM 10/11/2002]

 

the ability to absorb the moisture out of the air. all brake fluids do this... some quicker/more than others.

water = bad
pure brake fluid = good

 

Oh, I agree with that... if you're already buying Motul (as I am), a little bit more for a better fluid isn't a big deal. I was making reference to a comment made in this thread. Admittedly, this was not a fact, but speculation.

I'm still surprised at how a small company can bring products like this to market.

 

Jeff -- I didn't get the price point I was originally looking for. As time goes by, if this becomes a good seller, then volume will pick up, and I will pass the savings along to my customers. $12.95 is the proposed list, though it may come down to $11.95 when I have it on the shelves in 2 weeks.

Karl -- Willard beat me to it...I was out for a coffee break. Thank you, Will!

Wont Be Beat -- Yes, the Cobalt Super XRF will only available from Cobalt, as it is an in-house product. As the price point comes down, based on sales, I will be making it available to Cobalt dealers.

HTH... -Andie

 

This is very interesting. How does the Cobalt Super compressability compare to Motul 600?

 

andie, what are the risks in running this in my 60K master cylinder. it has only been bled once really since I have owned my 99GSR. by the way, diggin the axxis ultimates is it a synthetic? will it deteriorate the seals in the calipers and master cylinder? just curious what you all have come up with running it in your cars. would re recommend this fluid for running in street cars?

 

The COBALT SUPER XRF is a 100% synthetic brake fluid, and poses no risks to an OE Honda MC or brake hydraulic system. For street driving, I have to tell you...don't spend the money on the COBALT SUPER XRF - while it will work just fine on the street, it is a WOM (waste of money) for street use...same applies even to Ate Super Blue for pure street driving, but to a lesser degree, because it is less expensive.

For street driving, stick with OE or Valvoline Synpower...fluids like the new COBALT SUPER XRF and Castrol SRF are overkill, even though they are not very hygroscopic and are suitable for street use. Motul RBF and AP Racing Super 600 are not suitable for street use because they are quite hygroscopic.

With a high-mileage MC, try to use a vacuum bleeder so you do not have to stroke the piston in the MC with the new fluid - this can degrade the seals. Likewise, if you bleed using the traditional open-push-close-release method, try not to push the brake pedal down more than 1/2-way; same applies for using SpeedBleeders.

HTH... -Andie


[Modified by cobalt, 3:27 PM 10/12/2002]

 

thank you andie, good info as always

loving the axxis ultimates
have them up front only and I can lock the
ABS at 80 in 5th under full braking and
stock rotors... great control

 

Low compressibility... hmm... Though I don't doubt that you have an excellent product, can you really say this? All liquids can't be compressed, no? Hell, you can even use water for hydraulics if you didn't need to worry about boiling, rusting, and other factors.

 

With regards to compressibility, I really should have made that statement in relation to vapor rate and moisture absoption. When the COBALT SUPER XRF boils, the resulting "vapor bubbles", if you will, are smaller than those which are produced when Castrol SRF boils, and thus the reintroduction of fresh fluid, resulting from fluid cavitation in the caliper when you apply the brake pedal, is much faster (i.e. fluid recovery is faster)...and regaining a firm(er) pedal occurs more readily. Your statement that brake fluid (DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1) in incompressible...this is true for virgin brake fluid (with the exception of DOT 5 - silicone-based fluids).

-Andie

 

Is this fluid compatible with other common fluids (ATE, Motul)? Or does it require the brake system to be purged, cleaned , and then refilled (as is the case with AP600)?

 

The following fluids are compatible with each other:

ATE SUPER BLUE RACING
ATE TYP200 GOLD
MOTUL RBF 600
AP RACING SUPER 600
CASTROL SRF
COBALT SUPER SRF

In order to take full advantage of the qualities of each of these fluids (whichever is the one you choose to use based on their performance specifications), you should do a complete flush to ensure that the fluid in your brake hydraulic system is 100% of the new fluid of your choice. It does not make much sense when switching fluids (unless it is between two fluids with similar or idential performance characteristics -- e.g. Ate Super Blue and Ate Typ200) to just do a bleed.

With AP Racing Super 600, I have had it mixed with other fluids without issue, but have also had reports of seal problems from other customers. Thus, as you mention, with being AP Racing Super 600, it is best to completely flush the system, then from that point forward, sticking with AP Racing Super 600.

HTH... -Andie


[Modified by cobalt, 12:28 PM 10/14/2002]

 

Cool, I guess that clears it up.

Here's probably something you haven't heard much about. In my VW, the clutch and the brakes share the same hydraulic fluid. So I'm assuming if I boil my brakes, I'm basically f'ed and can't stop without stalling. The problem is the ATE Super Blue fluid has been known to cause squeaky clutches in VWs...not leading to failure or anything, just an annoying thing. Do you have any reports of this at all? Since it's so VW specific, it's probably not your thing, but any info would be cool!

 

Not true, actually. Boiling your brake fluid means you boil the fluid in the caliper at the time. You'd have to be driving on the Sun to boil *all* the fluid in the system Your clutch will be fine, despite having boiled the fluid in the caliper.

Also, I don't think the arrangement you're describing is as rare as you think; my RX-7 also uses the same fluid for clutch & brakes.