Not sure if anyone has experienced this issue. I recently went to get my tires rotated. The shop informed me that the outer edges of the driver side tires were worn down. They recommended a repair shop who could inspect it for me. The repair shop got it on the alignment rack and they told me my problem was on the passenger right rear? As it stands they said to make the repair will be $300. The shop also noted that either the camber or toe was out by 1 degree. The part they were recommending has an adjustable nut like the outer tie rods. I am in need of a second opinion.

Recap:
Driver side wear on outer edge of front and rear tires. Car pulls right. I have never heard of left side misalignment and pulling right.

 

She vibrates under braking but it's straight on. The shop recommended an adjustable arm to correct the toe or camber. I can't remember which one it is. The arm has an adjustable nut just like a inner tie rod end on the front. I have never heard of this before and I'm wondering if OEM part will correct the 1 degree it's out. I think the shop is trying to scam me but need other opinions.

 

The normal crown of the road will cause a car to pull to the right(or left in UK, Japan, Commonwealth, etc).

If the toe is maladjusted on one side it would cause the car to pull or push and cause excessive wear as you have seen.

You can tell how the tire is being worn by looking at it. If the tread is feathered more than likely a toe issue. If it is smooth but wearing the tire into a cone like shape, camber.

 

A low tire pressure will cause it to pull too. I would swap the two front tires to see if it'll pull to the left, if so, you know you got a bad tire. A separated plies inside the tire wall cause it too if I remember right.

 

I just got a lifetime alignment at Firestone, it was $180. They gave me a print out of all the before an after measurements. They also tried to sell me a fix for my car pulling to the right. They said I need shims(washers) and installation. They are trying to make money off course, its a business.

But any good shop should give you a printout of the measurements.

Yes you can get adjustable upper ball joints.

 

I got the measurements alright. The shop noted in the report that something messed up the thrust alignment on the rear passenger side of the suspension. I knew the front alignment was off, however, the car didn't pull to the right that I knew of. Here's where I'm stumped, the tires on the left side were worn on the outer edge of the tire. The passenger side were worn on the inside edge. I get that. What I don't get is that there was no physical indicators of the car pulling to the right other than the report. I don't want to throw $300 into a part that isn't needed at this time. I feel like I'm getting scammed but I also don't want to front money to an alignment shop to be told the same thing. Any suggestions?

 

This is what the shop recommended to correct the +1 degree of camber.

 

You can go with that.....if you are running a stock set up, there are shims that can be installed if it is not that far out.

 

The shop is not trying to scam you. 1 whole degree of camber is A LOT. the camber caused your rear tire to develop the outer wear and when they moved that tire to the front it caused the pull since that tire is essentially putting positive camber on the right front until it wears correctly. I would recomend going with that adjustable camber link since after its installed it can be adjusted over and over unlike the rear shims that are just a static adjustment. not to mention the labor rate for either one should be about the same.

 

Thats what I have on mine due to my 1.5" dropped.

 

Thanks for the info. My next question is, would using a direct oe replacement automatically correct the +1 degree without shims? Not trying to be an ***, but I would rather have stock since my car is at stock height and just using aftermarket 15" wheels. If I do end up using the adjustable set up, would it be wise to get the lower one as well?