2001 w/ H22A Engine Turning but not starting...Help
So I'm tyring to troubleshoot my friends car he sold me that had a "broken timing belt." So we checked out the timing belt and found out Pep Boys was wrong. (i know blasphemy!) So we checked the fuel pump, fuses, etc. the motor turns fine it just refuses to start. WHat should I begin to check next? I would assume the best thing to check would be the dizzy, but is there a starter relay or anythign else that might be keeping it form starting? I would like to check all the simple things before putting money into igniter coil, dizzy etc...
Edit:
Spark in all 4 plugs so dizzy is fine
Fuel pump working fine.
No compression in 3 out of 4 valves.
The timing belt looks like it has slipped, the other belt that is on the crank for the water pump had no teeth so the debris was everywhere and all int he gears of the timing belt so looks like thats how it slipped.
Edit:
Spark in all 4 plugs so dizzy is fine
Fuel pump working fine.
No compression in 3 out of 4 valves.
The timing belt looks like it has slipped, the other belt that is on the crank for the water pump had no teeth so the debris was everywhere and all int he gears of the timing belt so looks like thats how it slipped.
Last edited by KiDSoL; Apr 5, 2012 at 05:50 AM.
How did you check the timing belt? did you remove the timing cover and valve cover? If it broke it could be wedged making it seems to be still intact. If the t-belt is good, then start by checking the mechanical timing and report back
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If there was a problem with the belt then bent valves would keep it from starting if there are enough of them since compression wont be able to build up in the cylinders with bent valves.
If you have fuel and spark then check compression.
If you have fuel and spark then check compression.
How did you check the fuel pump? I would try a little starting fluid to check for spark (if it fires up for a second). If it doesn't fire up with a little starting fluid, then get a screwdriver and check the plug wires for spark. If it does fire up with starting fluid, then you can rule out the spark being the problem.
Originally Posted by jdm_rb20
How did you check the fuel pump? I would try a little starting fluid to check for spark (if it fires up for a second). If it doesn't fire up with a little starting fluid, then get a screwdriver and check the plug wires for spark. If it does fire up with starting fluid, then you can rule out the spark being the problem.
We bought a spark tester and we were able to get spark at all 4 plugs so we can now rule out it being the coil. The plug tester was blinking indicating a fuel problem but if the pump is working what would be the next thing to check? Would a compression check be the next step, there shouldn't be a reason for bent valves I wouldn't think, it's an auto and he doesn't drive hard at all and it stopped during an idle.
Last edited by KiDSoL; Mar 27, 2012 at 06:37 AM.
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Hmmm...got spark, got fuel... Time to start guessing: double check ALL grounds especially battery>>body, engine>>> body grounds. Use a voltmeter to verify that you have voltage on the outputs of the ignition switch (when the key is in each position). Have you checked for CEL's?
CEL? I know the CKP gets picky and sensitive at the crank pulley. had to replace it twice after doing a t-belt and water pump. same symptoms as yours. crank but no start. the 2nd time I had to replace it, the lower belt cover was cracked so it had a little bit of dirt and water inside. just enough to get a CEL. replaced the CKP under warranty. replaced the cover and the sensor. been good for the last 6-7 months now.
CEL? I know the CKP gets picky and sensitive at the crank pulley. had to replace it twice after doing a t-belt and water pump. same symptoms as yours. crank but no start. the 2nd time I had to replace it, the lower belt cover was cracked so it had a little bit of dirt and water inside. just enough to get a CEL. replaced the CKP under warranty. replaced the cover and the sensor. been good for the last 6-7 months now.
Update:
No compression in 3 of the 4 pistons, currently working on checking the mechanical timing, looks like 1 cam might be a tooth off but we aren't completely sure. Have to get a tool to take off the crank pulley and then we will know.
Anythign else we should check ?
No compression in 3 of the 4 pistons, currently working on checking the mechanical timing, looks like 1 cam might be a tooth off but we aren't completely sure. Have to get a tool to take off the crank pulley and then we will know.
Anythign else we should check ?
you do not need to remove the crank pull to check or set the mechanical timing. if the timing is off, you can loosen the tensioner and reposition the belt, then reinstall.
if you aren't getting compression on certain cylinders, the valves may be bent
if you aren't getting compression on certain cylinders, the valves may be bent

This is where the crank is whent he cames are in the position on the top picture.

Should line on the crank be at the top and match the cams (arrow markings.)
There wa sno markings on the crank pulley like the diagram you posted mentioned.
For me, it was helpful to use the lines marked on the cam gears instead of the stupid arrows. The lines are on either side, 90degrees from the arrows. They should meet in the middle and line up with the edge of the valve cover.
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