I have an obd1 jdm gsr swap in my 95 ex. Did the swap a couple months ago and everything went fine except a high idle which I figured was due to the tps sense it was throwing a number 7 cel code. A couple days after that while I was just taking it around the block and my interior lights started to dim and my tachs started dropping down like they would when you turn the car off. It needed a battery for a while so when I got it home I put a new one in it and that seemed to solve the problem. UNTIL the next day when I went to calibrate the tps and I didn't get a reading at all. I believe it's supposed to be .5 without wide open throttle? So I put the tb back on, closed the hood, went to start it and nothing. It cranks but it won't start. Am getting spark. 2 were kinda weak so new plugs tonite when my pay check comes. Is getting fuel. Can hear the fuel pump prime. Now its also not throwing the number 7 code. Help?

 

Did you remove the plug wires? Is spark bright white at all 4 spark plugs?

When you turn the key from off to ON(II), does the CEL remain on steady or turn off after 2 seconds?

 

Removed all 4 plug wires and plugs. Looked to have a little oil on them. 1 and 3 plugs had bright white/ blue spark. The other 2 were kinda orange.

The CEL light doesn't come on at all.

 

This is weak spark. Check the distributor cap and the plug wires. Also verify that the plug wires are installed in the correct firing order on the cap.

Do the other cluster warning lights work? If so, check whether the CEL bulb is blown.

 

Cap and rotor look to have some corrosion. Will post again once I get back with the new cap, rotor, plugs, and plug wires.

Only the SRS light comes on. Will get some new bulbs and see if that fixes it.

 

The oil pressure, battery, and cel light should all light up when the key is turned to the ONII position. The srs light has a separate wire that runs to it. If you're bulbs are missing or all burnt out which I doubt. Say so when you report back.

 

THE CEL light stays off for 2 seconds then goes away.

 

so the CEL is working now?

 

Yeah the CEL is workin now. Still no code. Got a new cap and rotor. Rotor went on fine, the cap was too big. I've heard the jdm gsr use smaller distributors? And also was told the one from a 94-95 del sol b16 would work. Is this true?

 

Bump.

 

Just picked up a distributor cap for a 94-95 del sol. Mite as well try it sense I haven't gotten a reply back saying that it won't work. Will repost with results.

 

b series vtec and non vtec dizzys are different. your tps should be .5v closed and 4.5wot. if its not .5 closed you'll either have too little or too much fuel while cranking. also should check your dizzy timing with a timing light if possible.

 

Tps still has no volt reading. Put new cap on. All four plugs have bright white spark. Still won't start, also still no CEL code.

 

The cap I got was for a b16 vtec.

 

if your tps has no voltage why are you worried about the ignition? you said u have spark and fuel and you know that the tps isn't reading, so chase down the tps problem don't worry about ignition/fuel. your car can't run without a tps.

 

So sense I'm not getting voltage fron the tps should I test to see how many volts the ecu is sending to the tps if any?

 

first id make sure your testing the tps itself correctly.

 

Just tested tpa wires. Green is the ground. Multimeter beeped so I have a good ground but the yellow and red wires didn't give a reading. I set the meter to DC. I believe that is correct. Have the key turned to the ACC position when testing. Am I doing something wrong?

 

yes. to test the tps sensor you test the sensor prongs themselves. not the wiring.

 

That's what I did. I unpluged it from the tps.

 

you don't check the wires! you check the prongs on the sensor itself.

 

there's no point in unplugging it and then checking, all you'll get a voltage from is the reference wire, which u did. take the leads to the prongs on the sensor itself. check the continuity through the pins and see what you come up with

 

So test it when it's plugged into the sensor?

 

no.your not testing wires. test the sensor itself. not the wires going into it

 

Ok. How would I go about doing that?