Does anyone have a DIY write up on how to change a transmission on a GSR swap or any B-series

Thanks

 

Originally Posted by Originally posted in article i'm writing up
How to change the clutch on a G3 Integra (Difficulty Level 8)

Estimated Time: 6-12 hours

New parts needed:
Clutch disk
Pressure plate
Pilot bearing
Throwout bearing

Tools required:
Floor jack
Pair of jackstands
Large crowbar
Large hammer
Rubber Mallet
(2) - ½” Breaker bars
Balljoint separator
Center punches
Screwdrivers (flathead and phillips)
3/8” & 1/2” ratchets
Assortment of extensions and swivels
Clutch alignment tool (usually included in most clutch kits)
Rubber Mallet

6 point sockets needed:
32mm (or 1¼”)
19mm
17mm
17mm DEEP SOCKET
14mm
12mm
10mm

12 point sockets needed:
10mm
17mm

Tools suggested:
Air compressor
Impact gun
Air ratchet
Friend to help out
Helms Manual

Other materials required:
3 quarts of manual transmission fluid
Clutch Fluid (dot 3 brake fluid)
Rags
Container to catch old fluids
Other projects suggested to do during all this:
Flywheel replacement
Transmission internal upgrades (ie. Final drive, LSD, etc)
Motor mount inserts or replacements
Header/cat/exhaust


Changing the clutch isn’t hard to do. Getting to it is the problem. I’m going to try and explain as best I can the tricks and shortcuts that I’ve found while changing the clutch on a G3 Integra. The time needed to do this can vary depending on a lot of different things. Expect to have your car out of commission for at least an entire Saturday if this is the first time you’ve tackled a project this big. Make sure you have a friend around to help when you actually get to pulling the transmission out and for putting it back in. The transmission weighs quite a bit and it can be kind of awkward removing it on your own.

Well.. first thing first. Get the car in your garage, loosen the front lug nuts (do not remove them yet!), and jack the front of the car (from the lower radiator support) up as high as you can. Make sure you have the parking brake set and the rear wheels chocked. Keep in mind you will need enough room underneath to lower and remove the transmission. Locate the jackstands to hold the car up in the area right behind the front wheels. Lower the car onto the jackstands and double check to make sure everything is secure. Now you can remove the lugnuts and take the wheels off the car.

Next go under the hood. To make access to bolts and the transmission a little easier, you will need to remove your intake, strut bars, and anything else you may have in there that may interfere with getting your transmission out. Disconnect the negative battery cable as well to avoid shorting anything. (Make sure you have your CD player/radio code!) While you are in there, you might as well start disconnecting the various plugs and ground wires that are attached to your transmission. These include the vehicle speed sensor located on the top backside of the transmission, the reverse sensor harness located on the front side, and the chassis-tranny ground cable that’s on the top front side. Also, pull back the rubber boot on the starter’s positive connection. Remove the 12mm bolt and move the cable out of the way. Now remove the negative connection by rolling back the rubber boot and pulling it straight out on its spade connection.

You will also have to remove your exhaust’s downpipe (if stock or a 2 piece header), or your entire header if it is a one piece unit. You will also need to remove your catylitic converter. Start off by unplugging and removing your O2 sensor with a large adjustable wrench. The O2 sensor will either be in the catalyitic converter or in the collector on your header depending on year or model. After its out set it aside somewhere safe to avoid damaging it. Keep in mind the bolts for the exhaust may be old and pretty rusty so be prepared if they break. You may want to shoot them with some PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD-40 or some other kind of lubricant to aid in their removal. After you have that taken care of, the next thing you need to do is empty the fluid out of your transmission. Place a bucket or pan under the transmission to catch the fluid. There is a plug on the passenger side that you can fit a 3/8” drive ratchet in and twist if off. Remember “lefty loosey”.

Now that you have the fluid removed, you can work on getting the axles out.

To get the passenger side axle out: First thing you need to do is to remove the lower shock fork from the lower control arm. There is a 17mm nut and bolt on the bottom and a 14mm pinch bolt at the top that you have to remove completely. Use some lubricating spray here as well to help remove the for. Maneuver and twist the fork out completely. You will notice that the large nut on the end of the axle has an indentation in it holding it in place. You will need to straighten this out a bit with a punch and hammer in order to remove it. Now you will need to take the crow bar and position it through the lugs so the assembly won’t rotate when you are twisting the large axle nut off. (you can do it this way or have someone sit in the car and hold the brake pedal down while you remove the axle nut) Use the 32mm (or 1¼”) socket and breaker bar and remove the axle nut. once you have the nut removed, you will need to remove the cotter pin and castle nut off the lower ball joint. With the castle nut remove you will need to insert the balljoint separator between the ball joint and the lower control arm and use a hammer to pop the ball joint out. It sometimes can take quite a bit of force to do this, so the bigger the hammer the easier it will be. Doing this may damage the ball joint boot, so be prepared to replace them if necessary. once you have the ball joint popped out, you should be able to wiggle the axle end out of the spindle/hub assembly. If it’s being a little stubborn you can try using a center punch and a hammer to coax it out more forcefully. You will notice a hole in the middle of the axle; insert the punch there and hammer away. You DO NOT want to strike the end of the axle directly with a hammer as you may mess up the threads and deform the end of the axle. Trust me, I’ve had that happen before… it’s not fun. If the axles are seized into the hub for some reason and you can’t remove them, don’t worry, there’s another way to get them out. Refer to the following section if they are seized.

***IGNORE THIS SECTIoN IF YOUR AXLES CAME OUT OF THE SPINDLES ALREADY! If you can’t get the axle separated from the spindle/hub assembly, you will have to take the entire spindle and axle out in one piece. To do this you will need to remove the ABS line (if equipped) and remove the brake caliper from the rotor. To get the ABS line off, remove the 2 10mm nuts that hold the ABS sensor to the spindle, and the 3 10mm bolts that hold the metal cover to the spindle. Then remove the 2 17mm nuts from the backside of the caliper assembly and remove it all in one piece. Secure it to the upper control arm with zipties or rest it on something. Do not let it hang by the brake line. After that is out of the way, remove the cotter pin and 17mm nut from the upper ball joint. Use the ball joint separator on the upper ball joint. The spindle and axle should be ready to be removed now.***

Now you are ready to pull the axle out of the transmission. The passenger side axle is held in with a spring clip that is on the end of the axle. It helps a lot if you use a long flathead screwdriver or a prybar to get it past the spring clip. Then just pull the axle straight out and set it aside. The helms manual suggests putting a plastic bag over the end that goes into the transmission, but isn’t necessary because I’m going to have you clean and grease the end up later.

To get the driver side axle out: on the driver side you will notice that the axle is longer and has two sections. There are three 14mm bolts that secure the intermediate shaft to the frame crossmember. Remove all three of them. The rest of the removal is the same as on the passenger side. The driver side axle does NOT have a spring clip holding it into the transmission so it’s a little easier to get out.

So now with that out of the way you can start unbolting the transmission from the engine. I’ve found its best to start from the bottom and work your way up. on a non-type-R there are 2 brackets and a plate that secure the bottom section. on a Type-R there is a one piece support bracket. These are held in by 17mm and 12mm bolts. The plate is secured with 10mm bolts. There’s also a heat shield on the rear bracket that covers the 12mm bolt to the shifter stabilizer bar that you can remove after the brackets are taken out. All you need to do is remove that 12mm bolt, take the large washer off, and pull the end off the post that it goes around. It is fine to let this hang down. Now you need to take care of the actual shift linkage. You can do this one of two ways. The easiest way to remove the linkage is to unbolt the end attached to your shifter and leave it attached to the transmission. You may have to unhook the hangers for your exhaust to gain access to the shifter. There is a 12mm bolt and 12mm nut that secure it. Just remove that and pull the linkage down off the shifter and out of the way. If you do this, be careful when you pull the transmission out so you don’t damage the linkage or have it swing around and hit someone. The other way is a little harder. Where the linkage meets up with the transmission, you will see a rubber boot that you need to pull back. Then remove the metal “C” clip from the shaft. You will see a spring clip that goes through the hole. Take your hammer and a punch and go at it until it starts coming out. Sometimes this is easy, most times its not. It can be very awkward trying to hammer and hold a punch all while laying on your back under your car. I highly suggest the first way just to save a little time.

Here is where you need to disconnect the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission. There are two 12mm bolts that hold it onto the transmission casing. You will need to remove the two 10mm bolts that attach it to the bracket that secures the hydraulic line. Be very careful not to bend the hydraulic like. After the bolts are removed, you should be able to slide it out of the boot that’s on the transmission, and tuck it up into the radiator fan so it won’t get caught up when pulling out the transmission. Also be careful not to pull the plunger out of the end of the slave cylinder.

After the bottom bolts are removed you can start to work on the rear motor mount bolts. At this time, place the floor jack under the transmission and center the pad on the transmission. Make sure the jack is just resting on the transmission and not lifting it up at all. Now you can start removing the rear motor mount bolts. There are three 19mm bolts on the driver side of the bracket, one 17mm bolt on the passenger side of the bracket, and one 17mm bolt that goes through the motor mount itself. The one that goes through the rear motor mount can be kind of tricky, so this is where those extensions and swivels come in handy. once those bolts are all out you should be able to move the rear bracket around. You do not need to remove it completely, unless you really feel like it.

At this point, you can remove the two 14mm bolts that attach the lower transmission mount to the frame. Leave the mount on the transmission as it give you another point to hold onto when pulling the transmission out later.

After the lower transmission mount bolts are removed, you can work on the upper transmission mount. You will only need to remove the two 17mm nuts from the studs that go into the transmission casing and the 17mm bolt that goes into the transmission. Refer to picture.

Now you should be ready to lower the transmission and motor. Before you do this, you may want to consider removing the vehicle speed sensor so it doesn’t get damaged when removing the transmission. There is one 10mm bolt that holds it down. Remove that bolt and twist and pull the sensor straight out. (The only reason I say this is because I broke mine and its not cheap to replace.) Now everything should be set to lower the transmission. SLOWLY lower the jack in a controlled manner. As the motor and transmission are coming down, make sure nothing is getting hung up at all and make sure the studs running through the upper transmission mount are clearing the mount. The motor will be fine hanging down as long as you still have the two driver side motor mounts still in tact. Make sure to keep the floor jack in place underneath the transmission to prevent it from falling.

The only thing holding your transmission to your motor at this point should be the starter. You should already have the wires disconnected, but if not, do so now. There are two 14mm bolts that secure it in place. Since your transmission and motor are hanging down, it is real easy to get at these bolts through the passenger side wheel well. The lower bolt is pretty far back, so your longest extension may come in handy here. After the bolts are removed, the starter should come right out.

Now you are ready to pull the transmission out. Take a look around and make sure you haven’t forgotten to removed any bolts. It should separate from the motor pretty easily. Make sure you pull it out far enough to clear the mainshaft in the bell housing. (usually about a 1” gap between the motor and transmission is fine.) Now SLOWLY! lower the jack down and have someone guide the transmission so it doesn’t get hung up on anything. Pull the jack and transmission out from under the car and set it aside for the time being. (Actually this is a good time to throw the transmission in your friends truck and drive it over to your local performance shop and have a LSD and shorter final drive installed )

Ok, now all the hard stuff is done and out of the way. Go open a Heineken, take a cigarette break, and pat your greasy hand on your back because the hard work is over.

When you look at where your transmission was, you will now be looking at the pressure plate and flywheel. That’s the next thing to work on. Here is where the air ratchet and impact gun come in most handy. You will be needing those 12-point sockets to remove these. You will also need your breaker bar and a 19mm socket. Go on the driver side and locate the crank pulley. Put the 19mm socket and breaker bar on there and have someone hold it while you are removing the bolts off the pressure plate and flywheel. Use the 10mm 12-point socket to remove the six bolts that hold on the pressure plate. I’ve found it easier to work from the bottom up so when you are taking the last one out, you can hold the plate with your other hand and keep it from falling. After the six bolts are removed take the pressure plate and clutch disc out. Now you will have eight 17mm 12-point bolts to remove to get the flywheel off. The are on pretty tight, so the impact gun can make short work of them. Otherwise, use a large ratchet and eat some spinach. Be careful not to drop the flywheel. You don’t want to damage the teeth or the friction surface. It is recommended to take the flywheel to a machine shop and get it resurfaced.

After getting the flywheel resurfaced, it is now time to re-install it. Take some brake parts cleaner and clean the friction surface to make sure there’s no oil or finger prints or anything on it. Use a screwdriver and hammer to pop the pilot bearing out of the flywheel. Make sure you have it resting on something non abrasive like a clean shop towel or piece of cardboard. You do not want to damage the freshly machined flywheel surface. Now that the old pilot bearing is out, you can re-install the new one. Put a little grease or antiseize on your finger and lube up the sides of the hole where the pilot bearing goes. Press the new bearing into the hole. Notice that there is a little lip in the hole that stops the bearing when it is in far enough. You may need to use a small block of wood and a hammer to get the bearing pushed in to its proper depth.

once the pilot bearing is installed, you can now install the flywheel back onto the motor. Hold it up and align the flywheel with the holes. Get all the 12 point bolts snug down by hand tightening and use your torque wrench to tighten them all down to 78 ft/lbs. Refer to the diagram for the proper tightening order.

Now insert the clutch alignment tool into the clutch disk and insert it into the center of the pilot bearing. If you notice the clutch disk is flat on one side and not on the other. The flat side should be facing the flywheel. Now you need to position the flywheel so that it lines up with the dowel pins. If it’s a tight fit, you may need to use a rubber mallet to coax it onto the dowels. Otherwise you can install the bolts next to the dowel pins and use that to pull the pressure plate down to the flywheel. Don’t tighten them down too much yet, just enough to get the pressure plate seated. Like before, install the rest of the bolts for the pressure plate until they are hand tight. They only need to be torqued down to 18 ft/lbs. Most torque wrenches don’t accurately read 18 ft/lbs, so just use your ratchet and 10mm 12 point socket and tighen them down about as tight as you would tighten your oil pan drain bolt. Refer to the diagram for proper tightening pattern. After all the bolts are tightened down, you can now remove the alignment tool by pulling it straight out.

Now you need to replace the throwout bearing that is located on the mainshaft on the transmission. Pull the bearing straight off the shaft. It should come right off the end of the release fork. Take not of the direction that the bearing faces. The release fork is just held on by a spring clip, so that might pop off too. If it does, just slide the spring clip back onto the pivot ball. With the old bearing removed, clean and grease up the mainshaft. Take the new throwout bearing and slide it over the mainshaft and slip the two prongs of the release fork into the brackets on the bearing. Double check to make sure that the release fork is properly seated on the pivot ball and the spring clip is in place. Clean off and re-grease the end of the release fork that contacts the clutch slave cylinder.

Now the transmission is ready for installation.

 

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...3-integra.html

with some pictures

 

That write up contains about a million extra steps that do nothing more then add time to the job. If your experienced, you can have the transmission on the ground in 30 mins or less. If your looking for a write up, I suggest you invest in a helm manual. Using some of these shade tree write ups is clearly not in your best interest.

 

thanks for the help....