Integra turbo high boost 32 PSI which Headgasket??????
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Dortmund, Germany, Europe
Hi,Guys which is the best head gasket for Integra type-r turbo GT3076 high boost 32 PSI.OEM Headgasket or Cometic Blown after about 1000 Miles.I have Wiseco Pistons compression 9:1 and Darton Sleeves.Please help!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by ITR 05082; Oct 27, 2012 at 02:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Dortmund, Germany, Europe
Thanks.What it can still be.The Garrett GT3076 is Oil and Water cooled, can i drive with Oil only,without Water????
The water is used for cooling the turbo and without it most likely will cause the seals to fail prematurely. If it has water ports always run water through the turbo.
The factory head gasket would be perfectly fine for your setup. Just make sure if you take off your head do not re-use the factory bolts. Use something like a ARP stud. And re-check torque after engine has warmed up.
The factory head gasket would be perfectly fine for your setup. Just make sure if you take off your head do not re-use the factory bolts. Use something like a ARP stud. And re-check torque after engine has warmed up.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Dortmund, Germany, Europe
The water is used for cooling the turbo and without it most likely will cause the seals to fail prematurely. If it has water ports always run water through the turbo.
The factory head gasket would be perfectly fine for your setup. Just make sure if you take off your head do not re-use the factory bolts. Use something like a ARP stud. And re-check torque after engine has warmed up.
The factory head gasket would be perfectly fine for your setup. Just make sure if you take off your head do not re-use the factory bolts. Use something like a ARP stud. And re-check torque after engine has warmed up.
What does your tune look like?
Lots and lots of guys on here running dartons with ARP studs and an OEM HG and making significantly more power than what a GT30R puts out. Might be too much timing, or something else causing cylinder pressure to spike and push your HG.
Remember the HG is the weak link in your system. If there's something wrong that's causing your headgasket to blow and you move to a stronger sealing system like O-rings and higher torque on the studs that overpressure will find something else to break.
Lots and lots of guys on here running dartons with ARP studs and an OEM HG and making significantly more power than what a GT30R puts out. Might be too much timing, or something else causing cylinder pressure to spike and push your HG.
Remember the HG is the weak link in your system. If there's something wrong that's causing your headgasket to blow and you move to a stronger sealing system like O-rings and higher torque on the studs that overpressure will find something else to break.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Dortmund, Germany, Europe
My set Up.
Sleeved Block with Darton Slives
Wiseco Piston 81mm 9:1 Compresion
Eagle Rods
Moroso Oilpan
ARP Headstuds
OEM Headgasket
Head is Stock
Edelbrock Manifold
Stock Throttle body
AEM Fuel Pressure
Golden Eagle Fuel Rail
2.9 Drive Shaft
NGK Spark 8 size
10.2mm Spark Wires
Aftermarket Oil Cooler
Omni 4 Bar Map Sensor
Mugen Fan switch
Mugen Thermostat
Mishimotto Radiator with Mishimotto Fan
Autobahn 88 Radiator Hose
AC
Hasport Engine Mounts
1100 ID Injectors
AEROMOTIVE 340LPH Fuel Pump
Peak Boost Turbo kit with Garett Dual BB GT3076 AR82
Boost 32 PSI
Precision Wastegate
Tial Blow-Off
3" Downpipe and Catback with Racing Cat
P72 ECU with Hondata S300
Autometer EGT,Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Boost Gauge


Sleeved Block with Darton Slives
Wiseco Piston 81mm 9:1 Compresion
Eagle Rods
Moroso Oilpan
ARP Headstuds
OEM Headgasket
Head is Stock
Edelbrock Manifold
Stock Throttle body
AEM Fuel Pressure
Golden Eagle Fuel Rail
2.9 Drive Shaft
NGK Spark 8 size
10.2mm Spark Wires
Aftermarket Oil Cooler
Omni 4 Bar Map Sensor
Mugen Fan switch
Mugen Thermostat
Mishimotto Radiator with Mishimotto Fan
Autobahn 88 Radiator Hose
AC
Hasport Engine Mounts
1100 ID Injectors
AEROMOTIVE 340LPH Fuel Pump
Peak Boost Turbo kit with Garett Dual BB GT3076 AR82
Boost 32 PSI
Precision Wastegate
Tial Blow-Off
3" Downpipe and Catback with Racing Cat
P72 ECU with Hondata S300
Autometer EGT,Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Boost Gauge


When you throw it all back together make sure the head and block are flat. Yes you should always recheck the torque. Most people don't, but I sometimes find they need to be tightened once everything is heat cycled.
Also I usually always copper coat the gasket just as an added measure. Again most people dont or will tell you not to.
Also I usually always copper coat the gasket just as an added measure. Again most people dont or will tell you not to.
has it been tuned on a dyno or street?
100octane race gas? pump? or octane adder?
do you have pics of the plugs? any kind of knock dectection?
100octane race gas? pump? or octane adder?
do you have pics of the plugs? any kind of knock dectection?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Dortmund, Germany, Europe
Yes 100 Octane Race Gas with AEROMOTIVE 340LPH Fuel Pump,tuned on street,plugs etc I compared with stock my JDM ITR,all is same not divergence.maybe I should go 24 ° degrees more someone knows how much?????????????
what type of tuning system did you use? maybe you can post a screen shot of your ignition map or email one of us the calibration file.
24° at 32 psi, seems a lot for me, you build a lot of pressure if you have to much timing
you should try for less to see if you 're still blowing head gasket
something like 16° but it's hard to know without timing map and correction applied by the sofware if there any, and a dyno will help a lot
re torque the ARP mean that after a few thousand of Km you recheck torque on the studs
Or a sleeve moving under pressure
you should try for less to see if you 're still blowing head gasket
something like 16° but it's hard to know without timing map and correction applied by the sofware if there any, and a dyno will help a lot
re torque the ARP mean that after a few thousand of Km you recheck torque on the studs
Or a sleeve moving under pressure
up to 300 hp you can stay with stock set up, in your case with more Hp you need one
also did you give a try on ignition timing ?
also did you give a try on ignition timing ?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Dortmund, Germany, Europe
I think I must Re check the ARP Headstuds,but Compressed air test was ok.I Should Install another new Headgasket or can use old Headgasket and don´t remove the Head and only Re check the Headstuds????
And will Tune with less timing.
And will Tune with less timing.
Timing is quite high for that boost level . It should be in the mid/upper teens . This is of course if everything is setup correctly . Even for that octane i think its too high .
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jetspeedz
Forced Induction
21
Feb 20, 2018 02:37 PM
Jwbetley
Forced Induction
15
Jun 18, 2008 07:37 PM
caminSi
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
9
Jul 27, 2006 07:52 AM





