so i started up my rebuilt swap and after changing the oil it began to make a very loud ticking noise. i know they do this but it got even louder after i changed the oil and it's kind of making me worried. the hood is off but you can hear it ticking down the block. the valves were adjusted before it was dropped in also. you can hear it coming from the head. why would it do this?

here's a vid of how it sounds. don't mind the vacuum leak
http://youtu.be/jtgoovlhyP0

 

What method and technique did you use to adjust the valves? Please describe in detail, as this is critical information.

 

ur **** is ****ed !!!!j/k honda heads always have a little tick but never heard one that loud any aftermarket head work ? check hanes manual for lap or valve adjustment....hopefully its not something more important like spun bearing or pistons hitting valves

 

i did .007" on intake and .008" on exhaust. i used a straight edged feeler gauge and a wrench and screw driver. each cylinder was at tdc when i did it. i just rechecked it and some of them are pretty tight. can't even get the feeler gauge in on some of them so i'll be readjusting them after i get the adjusting tool. hopefully it's not nothing serious. no head work either. just a 3 angle valve job and resurfaced head. internals are stock

 

I think it definitely sounds like your valve's aren't at spec. This is straight from the manual:

Intake: 0.08- 0.12mm (0.003- 0.005in)
Exhaust: .15- 0.20mm (0.006- 0.008in)

Therefore, your intake valves may be too loose. Adjusting them is a pain, but you really can't check and re-check them enough, especially after you think you got the right clearance and you tighten down the jam nut, I always end up having to readjust it. Also, if you're confused about those numbers, it should be like this, intake: .003" should have no drag, slides no problem, .004" has moderate drag, slides in and out, but takes some pressure, .005" should not slide in at all. (Hopefully, that explanation wasn't insulting your competence or anything, just trying to be clear)

Good luck though, hopefully it's something simple.

Edit: also, the adjusting tool makes it soooo much easier, can't even imagine doing it without it again. I got mine off of amazon for cheap, too.

 

if iam not mistaking it should be .006 on intake and .007 on exhaust did you check your dizzy to make sure its on point and sending a spark at the right time

 

how much did they take off the head when they resurfaced it

 

There's the piece of info I needed.

Readjust them again, but this time IGNORE THE TDC THING.

Instead, turn the engine so FOUR LOBES (two pairs on different cylinders) are pointing STRAIGHT UP to the sky.

Now adjust those.

Then turn the engine so another two pairs are pointing straight up to the sky, and do those.

Go through all 8 pairs, and you're done.

After you're successfully done, I'll explain why this is a preferable method to what the factory specifies.

 

Not to sound like a dick, but you are mistaken. I literally copy and pasted the clearances from my manual.

Makes sense, I'd like to hear why it's preferable to factory instructions as well, besides being quicker and simplifying it.

 

i thought specs were .006-.007 for intake and .008-.009 for exhaust. or that's what i was told and found by googling. are all b16s the same spec? mine is from a 1st gen. but yeah i just ordered one from amazon. should be here tomorrow.

 

Those specs are for a non-VTEC. OP is using the correct specs for VTEC.

OP I think you didn't get them adjusted correctly. With the engine cold check the clearances again.

Also, you can use either TheRealTegger's method OR the factory protocol (set to TDC), as BOTH work. I have used the TDC method every time I've done a valve adjustment and it always comes out perfect the first time.

 

The factory method requires too much precision to keep from accidentally catching a lobe on its way down into the clearance space.

With the cam lobes straight up to the sky, there's zero chance of having one of the lobes starting to come down and interfering with the clearance measurement.

I find the up-to-the-sky method to be just as fast as the factory method, and more tolerant of slight mis-placement of the lobes.

 

OH crap, dang you are both right, sorry!! That was for the b18b!!

You were right, Intake: 0.15-0.19mm (.006-0.007in) , Exhaust: 0.17-0.21 mm (0.007-0.008in).

Sorry you guys, especially @danscrxsi!!

 

I'm glad it works for you, but it's misleading to act like the factory method doesn't work. If a person can't figure out how to set TDC correctly then I don't have a lot of faith in their ability to do a valve adjustment.

 

okay i'll adjust them with the lobes up and valve adjustments were done with the engine cold and not driven or started up those days. won't know anything until tomorrow though when i get the tool and readjust them

 

What tool?

 

I never said the factory method doesn't work. I said the factory method is more difficult than the lobes-straight-up method.

Those with less experience tend to find the lobes-straight-up method to be much easier to work with.

 

the valve adjusting tool. just seems a lot easier with it and i already ordered it

 

its kool dont trip

 

hey well i finally got to my car today and it sounds better to me. but there's like a ringing or whistling noise and i can't find it. it might just be a loose bolt or something vibrating against something and nothing serious i hope. i'll have to look into it further. i have a video but you can barely hear it on there. i also want to check my timing on the distributor to be safe but i don't have the timing cover on so is there a way to do this without it?

http://youtu.be/FPdAEDwBBMI
it does smoke a little too but i assume that's because there's less than a mile on it and needs to be broken in?