Alrighty. Forgive me, I'm a Chevrolet guy, trying a hand at Hondas.

I have an F22B (pretty sure its a B, not an A, don't have the motor here right now) going into a 1997 Honda Prelude (H22A/5 speed car). I know that's a backwards swap, lol, but that's not my point at hand.

What is it going to take to make this car run? It's going to be a stock F22B. No mods. Bone stock with a 5 speed. I don't want anything fancy, just the car to run reliably.

Do I have to find a used CPU? Can I get it tuned somewhere? All this stuff is common knowledge for me and Chevrolet LS computers but I don't know all the ins and outs of these Honda PCMs and what they are or are not capable of.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help?

Edit: It's a 1997-2001 F22B OBD2 (JDM import motor)

 

Best bet maybe to use an obd2a to obd1 ecu jumper harness & chipped obd1 vtec p28 spec ecu.

For more information review http://www.phearable.net/tech/efibeginnerguide.html

 

I've been searching like crazy tonight.

So, an OBD2 to OBD1 harness (appears to be around $50).

And I see some P28 ECM's on Ebay for $110 with basic tuning included? Is that legit?

In theory then it would run eh? Would that pass inspection? Here in Louisiana all they do is plug the car in and if there are no emissions codes present it passes. Would that work?

Thanks!

 

An OBD1 ECU in an OBD2 car will not pass a scan test. They do not use the same code.

Is the F22B a DOHC or SOHC, VTEC or non VTEC?

I'm just wondering becuase you could probably run a stock OBD2 ECU/ECM from an F22B1 or B2 Accord. P0H is VTEC and P0B is non VTEC.

 

It is a NON-VTEC DOHC F22B.

 

A 96-97 Accord 5spd P0B ECU would be your best bet for emissions testing. The transmission controllers are part of the ECU. To keep things simple you want to make sure that you get a manual trans ECU.

Once your done passing the test you could swap in a chipped and tuned OBD1 ECU with a conversion harness if you wanted to. If all you are looking for is something that will run the car, the OBD2 P0B would do it.

 

You get what you pay for :-p

If it is a f20b non-vtec use an obd1 non-vtec chipped ecu & obd2 to obd1 harness:
http://www.phearable.net/shoppingcar...vtec-p-32.html

 

He mentioned that it is a JDM F22B DOHC Non VTEC. A chipped OBD1 setup won't pass an OBD2 emissions scan test. He would still need an OBD2 ECU to pass emissions. The current Prelude P5M ECU won't run the F22B without codes.

OP,

The only other issue that I can foresee would be the EGR system. I'm not sure if the F22B had it or not. If not, you will probably need to use an H23 intake manifold with the EGR system to pass emissions. Better performance anyway!

 

Thanks guys. I appreciate your help! I'm going to go back over later and look over some other things on the car. The POB sounds like the best bet. They look to be easy to get on Ebay (and affordable) should make the car run like a top (stock) and pass emissions assuming the car is running fine.

BTW, this is sold auction of the actual motor he bought for the car:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/260884273181...ht_2997wt_1396

 

Rain was killing me this afternoon so I couldn't do much of anything.

However, that F22B appears to have a spot for an EGR valve, it simply has a factory block off plate bolted on. Couldn't I just put an EGR valve on and hook it up?

So I imagine the harness in the Prelude should be good to go and any problems should be minor. If I can mount up an Accord/F22B EGR and remove the block off plate and run a P0B ECU for the whole get up, it sounds as though I should be alright?

 

If it has a block-off plate then removing it and installing an EGR valve/solenoid would work. The original H22 EGR might work. Depends on the bolt pattern though. If it does then you would have no connector issues.

 

Cool. When I get to pulling the motor out...hopefully the last half of this week...I'll see if the EGR's are the same. They are different part numbers on Rock Auto though so I'm doubting it. No big deal. I'm an electrician so it won't be anything to put on a different mating connector at worst.

 

Oh. I read that starting in 1997 Honda put an Immobilizer in their cars in the ECM. Perhaps I should be looking for a 1996 ECM to avoid any potential headaches eh?

 

The Accord didn't get an IMMO circuit until the 98+ OBD2b ECUs.

 

Gotcha. So despite the Prelude being a '97 I'll be ok with a '96 or '97 Accord ECU?

 

Did some reading.

A Prelude you have your key, the key read, and the ECU with the IMMO circuit.

If using a 1997 Accord PCM without an IMMO circuit, the key reader reads the original key (which I have) but there's nothing in the ECU for it to report to, so it should start?

Sorry if I'm making this more difficult than it is. Chevrolets have VATS build into the PCM so if the PCM and motor aren't hooked up in the original vehicle it won't run. However, it's as simple as just turning it off in the PCM. Takes seconds, lol.

 

Oh snap, I'm not 100% on that one. I have the factory Honda electrical specs for the IMMO system. I'll have to take a closer look and get back to you on that one.

Not making it difficult at all.

Every vehicle manufacturer has their own spin on things. Some easier to bypass than others. There are always going to be people that know about these things. That is why there are forums like this one. To help people cross over when they start to work on Honda's.

 

From my understanding

• The receiver in the ignition switch energizes the transponder in the key in the II position.
• The key in turn sends a coded signal to the IMMO control unit/strapped to the steering column.
• The control unit then signals the ECU and starter cut relay.
- If the proper key has been used. The starter cut relay will be energized by the control unit and the ECU will energize the fuel system.

In this case when using the non IMMO ECU, it will have already sent power to the fuel system as it does not require the signal from the control unit to do so. It just needs the power from the main relay. As far as I can see there is no return signal sent from the ECU for the IMMO.

In my opinion it should work.

 

Well heck i'll give it a shot then, lol. Your understanding of it seems sound. I'm going to pull a part to check 5 accords this week for a PCM (and an egr valve). We'll get it going somehow! Thanks man.

 

Your welcome.

Good luck with your hunt and the swap.

 

Yea the junk yard was a dud. Found 4 of the 5 Accords. All autos, all destroyed.

First. I realized at the yard that Honda Accord had single cam F22B1s

Anywho. My motor is supposedly out of a 97-01 Japanese Prelude.

However...there were two of those. One 8.8:1 and 130HP and 9.2:1 and 160HP (or 9:3.1 and 166HP depending on what you read). I don't know which I have. So really, there's no telling what PCM would run the car just right.

Upon further investigation I can't find much info on a 130HP version of the F22B, but plenty on the 160HP version.

I would imagine this actually would rule out an Accord PCM.

Granted, I'm not sure how specific the PCM needs to be to do its job or how many PCM's existed for all the different F22s. From what I gather I could plug just about anything OBD2 into it and it would run with some degree of functionality, lol.

Hah. Well if this is the worst issue I come up with than I'm in good shape.

 

It never ends, lol.

Upon further research, I think the exhaust down pipe is different on the F22B DOHC vs the H22A4 in the car. The PCM causes a mess on its own as the one that runs the car correct is impossible to find and tuning seems to resort to turning back to OBD1 and therefore failing scan emissions testing. Since F22B DOHC engine don't exist in American cars you have to resort to buying parts for H23s (upper) or F22s (lower) for the engine.

Plus other issues I have yet to find.

To me, it starts to seem that if I'm to continue with this project, rebuilding the current H22A4 is the most logical answer. It requires nothing to change but the internals of the engine and it will be back to running like a CHAMP after. I haven't determined the cost of rebuilding an H22A (back to stock) yet though.

Hmm.

 

Rebuilding the H, depending on what is wrong with it, could be a cheaper route. Or selling the F22B and getting an H22A from Japan (pretty much a direct swap) is also an option.

The PCM/ECU number that I gave you is actually the closest US OEM OBD2 ECU available that will run your engine and pass a scan test. SOHC/DOHC non VTEC engines use pretty much the same basic fuel & ignition maps.

Note: Not all 96-97 Accords came with an F22B1 engine, there was also the non VTEC SOHC F22B2 (P0B) in the LX/DX trims. Unfortunately there is no such thing as an OBD2 Non VTEC H23. US or Japanese so that was the closest US match.

You are going to need the 92-95 Prelude Si (H23) exhaust manifold & down pipe.

 

Well, in that case, I have all the information needed for either route taken.

I'm getting the car from my best friend. I was going to get the F22B DOHC and he was going to keep the H22A4 to sell to recoup money. However, now I may be keeping the H22A4 and he can do whatever with the F22B DOHC.

I haven't checked it myself but he claims all cylinders are down on compression. Car will run if you push start it in 2nd but won't start on its own.

 

That is where the H22 can get expensive.... The H22 block has what are known as FRM sleeves, or fibre reinforced metal sleeves. They require special machining and can only be taken out 0.25mm over the stock bore. The pistons are also specialty pistons and 0.25 OS is the max you can get as well. If the cylinders require more than that they are pretty much toast.

Most people I have seen that have an H22A4 with bad cylinders beyond repair. Would opt for a used JDM engine swap. The cost for sleeving alone can end up pretty much the same.

Not to dash your plans, just giving you the heads up that a lot of times an H22 has been ridden hard and put away wet. The top ring lands in the pistons can let go and do some damage to the cylinder walls. Hopefully yours isn't that bad.

Good luck with whatever route you choose