Swap Advice
Hey I have a b20v (oem-spec) with 168k miles on it. (168k on head/trans, 110k on block/crank)
I have ALL the parts (axles, mounts, linkage, trans, etc etc etc etc) to get the motor into my freshly-restored CRX and call it a day.
Today I woke up with the sickening realization that 168k is a lot of miles to be installing in the CRX.
I feel like I'm selling myself short with a b20v.... The holy grail of CRX swaps is the k24. There is no replacement for displacement and I don't think the b20v is going to get me the speed I am looking for in the CRX.
This sudden realization has made me rethink the entire build... I don't want to put in a b20v that is as old as 168k miles.
My plans include a stroker kit, high compression, and maybe boring out the cylinders a bit (2.2l?)
I'm looking at things all over again and I can get a B16a3 (hydro) motor/trans shipped to my house for 3500usd. This motor is guaranteed under 35k miles.
Then I need to source another b20z2 shortblock with cranks etc etc. I don't know if I can find a b20z2 with 35k miles..
Or I just go k24 for 5000usd and then have to get mounts/linkage/etc all over again. I estimate the total cost of a k24 swap to be about 6000usd.
Please share your thoughts...
Is 6000usd a reasonable estimate of k24 complete swap cost?
What would you do - put in the 168k mile b20v and call it a day with high mileage?
OR
K24 swap
OR
Buy a 35k mile b16a3 and try to find a low mileage b20z2 to build a b20v from the ground up again like I already have done?
Thanks guys if anyone read all this, this has got my head tied up in a knot and I can't think about it anymore right now!
I will also add that today I went to the shop to start pulling parts off the perfectly tuned running b20v del sol. I couldn't force myself to start tearing apart a perfectly running b20v del sol which I may be able to sell for 4000usd to fund the acquisition of a newer less-worn-out motor. This was the catalyst for this mind**** I am now in.
I have ALL the parts (axles, mounts, linkage, trans, etc etc etc etc) to get the motor into my freshly-restored CRX and call it a day.
Today I woke up with the sickening realization that 168k is a lot of miles to be installing in the CRX.
I feel like I'm selling myself short with a b20v.... The holy grail of CRX swaps is the k24. There is no replacement for displacement and I don't think the b20v is going to get me the speed I am looking for in the CRX.
This sudden realization has made me rethink the entire build... I don't want to put in a b20v that is as old as 168k miles.
My plans include a stroker kit, high compression, and maybe boring out the cylinders a bit (2.2l?)
I'm looking at things all over again and I can get a B16a3 (hydro) motor/trans shipped to my house for 3500usd. This motor is guaranteed under 35k miles.
Then I need to source another b20z2 shortblock with cranks etc etc. I don't know if I can find a b20z2 with 35k miles..
Or I just go k24 for 5000usd and then have to get mounts/linkage/etc all over again. I estimate the total cost of a k24 swap to be about 6000usd.
Please share your thoughts...
Is 6000usd a reasonable estimate of k24 complete swap cost?
What would you do - put in the 168k mile b20v and call it a day with high mileage?
OR
K24 swap
OR
Buy a 35k mile b16a3 and try to find a low mileage b20z2 to build a b20v from the ground up again like I already have done?
Thanks guys if anyone read all this, this has got my head tied up in a knot and I can't think about it anymore right now!
I will also add that today I went to the shop to start pulling parts off the perfectly tuned running b20v del sol. I couldn't force myself to start tearing apart a perfectly running b20v del sol which I may be able to sell for 4000usd to fund the acquisition of a newer less-worn-out motor. This was the catalyst for this mind**** I am now in.
I think someone lied to you about having a running k20a swap for 6 grand! Try about 8-9k as far a b20 being overbored go another route since that cylinder wall is **** thin as is. If 5-6k is your limit look into h2b.
whats the scoop on the build of the b20v that you were planning to put in there? If youve already spent the time to build the b20v, i personally would just replace bearings/rings/rehone etc. Beansandrice is right, the b20 is a stroked b18 and is basically as large as it can be bored because of the stock sleeves. Did you consider an H2b swap? you could still stay semi-b series as far as mounts and axels are concerned. my friend did a k20 swap into an ek hatch, and he spent about 10k just on the swap.
whatever you choose, good luck! the car is looking completely sick!
whatever you choose, good luck! the car is looking completely sick!
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As hard as you try and as much as you tighten the budget for a k swap you still end up in the high side of 8 grand. Shift box kpro tuning engine (k24 or k20a) axles etc I'm just scraping the top of the list.
thanks guys.
the more i think about it, a k24 is expensive. if i could sell the b20v del sol for the cost of a k-swap, i would. but i couldn't sell the del sol for 8000usd where I live, even if i repainted it etc.
so why would i want to go H-series instead of b-series?
I am aware that the b20z blocks have thin cylinder walls, and don't like boost much. We don't have e85 fuel here either, so I'm limited to 91octane for my compression limits.
if i stay naturally aspirated with a stroker kit (crank, rods, pistons) I would have to keep compression below 13:1 so that's a limitation.
What's the advantage of h2b? h22 motors are heavier, and i would need to buy an LSD b-series trans anyways..
or I can buy a 30k mile b16a (sir ii, w/hydro LSD trans) shipped to my door for 3000usd.
then I can source a b20z2 shortblock if i have to call every junkyard in the states to find one. eventually i would be able to find one with low mileage (30,40k +/-)
then i buy a stroker kit with new rods/crank/pistons (13:1) and replace all the bolts, studs, bearings/rings in the b20z2 shortblock and use the rest of the b16A parts to put it into the CRX.
i just feel like i've come so far preparing the CRX for a motor, and putting in a 170k mile motor is dumb because it's already worn out.
thanks a lot guys this is helping a lot.
the more i think about it, a k24 is expensive. if i could sell the b20v del sol for the cost of a k-swap, i would. but i couldn't sell the del sol for 8000usd where I live, even if i repainted it etc.
so why would i want to go H-series instead of b-series?
I am aware that the b20z blocks have thin cylinder walls, and don't like boost much. We don't have e85 fuel here either, so I'm limited to 91octane for my compression limits.
if i stay naturally aspirated with a stroker kit (crank, rods, pistons) I would have to keep compression below 13:1 so that's a limitation.
What's the advantage of h2b? h22 motors are heavier, and i would need to buy an LSD b-series trans anyways..
or I can buy a 30k mile b16a (sir ii, w/hydro LSD trans) shipped to my door for 3000usd.
then I can source a b20z2 shortblock if i have to call every junkyard in the states to find one. eventually i would be able to find one with low mileage (30,40k +/-)
then i buy a stroker kit with new rods/crank/pistons (13:1) and replace all the bolts, studs, bearings/rings in the b20z2 shortblock and use the rest of the b16A parts to put it into the CRX.
i just feel like i've come so far preparing the CRX for a motor, and putting in a 170k mile motor is dumb because it's already worn out.
thanks a lot guys this is helping a lot.
You said yourself compadre no replacement for displacement? You want bigger engine with less weight move to the moon. H2b is by far the bang for the buck. Torque is the winner here
well i'm re thinking the entire build now.... right before i'm about to finish it heh heh
would this work for my h2b? "H22A 92-95 OR 97-98 Long Block"
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30029
i've decided a k24 is out of the budget.
we don't have e85 here, best we have is 91 octane e10 ---- which limits my compression ratio to 12:1 MAXIMUM and that's PUSHING IT.
if I buy a new low mileage b16a and find a low mileage b20z2 short block and build a NEW b20v with less than 50k miles.... then i get a stroker kit with crank/pistons/rods/etc at 12:1 compression ratio.... i have no idea what kind of power that would make.
then i would have to build the head, valvetrain and camshafts... would all this realistically get me to 300hp NA on the b20v or am I dreaming?
IF NOT then h2b is my next best option if I am understanding you correctly.
thanks
would this work for my h2b? "H22A 92-95 OR 97-98 Long Block"
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30029
i've decided a k24 is out of the budget.
we don't have e85 here, best we have is 91 octane e10 ---- which limits my compression ratio to 12:1 MAXIMUM and that's PUSHING IT.
if I buy a new low mileage b16a and find a low mileage b20z2 short block and build a NEW b20v with less than 50k miles.... then i get a stroker kit with crank/pistons/rods/etc at 12:1 compression ratio.... i have no idea what kind of power that would make.
then i would have to build the head, valvetrain and camshafts... would all this realistically get me to 300hp NA on the b20v or am I dreaming?
IF NOT then h2b is my next best option if I am understanding you correctly.
thanks
nice link juggernaut, but i'm in hawaii on a tiny island and we have ONE junkyard on the entire island. pickin is slim on the other islands and shipping interisland is a few hundred bucks.
if i can't find things in the islands, it's mail order from cali or japan, and that's averaging about 700usd to get me a motor from one of those ports.
if i can't find things in the islands, it's mail order from cali or japan, and that's averaging about 700usd to get me a motor from one of those ports.
Jugglenutts
You seriouse? A k24 usdm engine link to a rice article lol! Okay so let's say you save some money to push a "K" engine.. With 160ish hp and trq lol when for the same hondatuner mag price you can walk that set up with a full on h22a swap.
C'mon dude tuner mags are for fagz.
This is real ***** to the walls bench racing at its best.
You seriouse? A k24 usdm engine link to a rice article lol! Okay so let's say you save some money to push a "K" engine.. With 160ish hp and trq lol when for the same hondatuner mag price you can walk that set up with a full on h22a swap.
C'mon dude tuner mags are for fagz.
This is real ***** to the walls bench racing at its best.
The only reason to swap in a k and go through the trouble is to make power. Not defeat the purpose.
Sorry about the jugglenutt thing its just what came to mind when I read your name lol
Sorry about the jugglenutt thing its just what came to mind when I read your name lol
yeah i saw those numbers and kind of lost interest. it's like the author was promoting a K SERIES CRX!!!1!! like it was the hot new thing. Power is irrelevant when popularity come into play.. i'm lookin for power and NO popularity.
I'm also wondering about the internal quality of those 40k mile JDM imported engines.
I knew someone who worked at a company importing the motors and he said that they were all beaten up inside, driven without oil etc etc.
chances are my 170k b20v is in the same shape as an imported 'low mileage' motor.
anyone have experience with this?
I'm also wondering about the internal quality of those 40k mile JDM imported engines.
I knew someone who worked at a company importing the motors and he said that they were all beaten up inside, driven without oil etc etc.
chances are my 170k b20v is in the same shape as an imported 'low mileage' motor.
anyone have experience with this?
its not unlikely that imported engines could be abused. are you comletely oppossed to turbo?... hehe. (and yes i used a question mark and an elipses, it makes it twice as potent)
im personally a fan of b20vs. ive seen alot of nasty builds on here with great numbers. im sure some of those guys would share theyre knowledge if you decided to build yours.
I can vouch for some of the JunkDM engine stories! Here is a long known true one... In Japon the air purity laws are very different. The engine gets swapped out before 100km (correct me if wrong) a lot of folk out there just top off the oil if it gets low never changing the oil or filter. I have gotten many engines (since 1998 some of the first gsr swaps out in cali SpeedGarage OG shop hand) that have the original blue honda filter and first thing that comes to mind is "damn they only used honda brand filters" not true lol! Its the same filter that the car sold with hahaha that is true stuff!!
the miles on a engine is not that significant, it has much more to do how well it was and is still maintenance. To be completely honest with you that's not that many miles, i know people who have swaps with much more than that who are doing completely fine.
Clearly everyone would love a K swap, in any civic not just a Crx, but realistically 250whp will be very very challenging to achieve on a NA B20v without a larger bore and high compression.
you should probably go the ball bearing turbo route instead of a supercharger. Personally i just don't feel the supercharger is a good fit on any 4 banger. you'd get more results out of a ball bearing in my eyes.
I feel H22's are overrated, really the only people that preach them are people who run them. They have weak walls and throw more than any other honda series motor i've seen. if you do go H .. then go H2b
you could probably build two B series builds on the price of one K24
Clearly everyone would love a K swap, in any civic not just a Crx, but realistically 250whp will be very very challenging to achieve on a NA B20v without a larger bore and high compression.
you should probably go the ball bearing turbo route instead of a supercharger. Personally i just don't feel the supercharger is a good fit on any 4 banger. you'd get more results out of a ball bearing in my eyes.
I feel H22's are overrated, really the only people that preach them are people who run them. They have weak walls and throw more than any other honda series motor i've seen. if you do go H .. then go H2b
you could probably build two B series builds on the price of one K24
@disaster - yeh when i saw the ellipses and the question mark i knew you meant business.
i'm not really liking turbos for a number of reasons. i like to push the envelope and it would be too easy to turn up the boost just a liiiiiitle bit more for some better numbers... and that isn't good because b20s have notoriously weak sleeves and no one on the island sleeves blocks.
also i'm not liking the turbo lag before boost, i want smoooooth even hp/tq numbers all throughout the powerband.... no waiting for the turbo to spool up and then letting off the gas because the car shoots forward...
@beansandrice - thanks for the insight.. to come to think of it i actually did see the oem blue filters on a few motors listed on those jdm import sites. scary that those might be original filters and oil with 40k miles.
@shaun - yeh i know 168k isn't super high miles, but it's more than i would like...
and yeah everyone wants a k-swap. but realistically i could make it happen... just gotta ask at what cost.
yeh everyone says turbo turbo but i don't really like what i hear. i like high compression NA, tuned perfectly, with lightweight rotating assemblies.
yeh two b-series for price of one k-series i hear that.
as of now i'm thinkin i will rebuild the b20v (168k) that i have and inspect all the internals for wear and replace anything that's damaged. if it doesn't look good inside the bottom end, i will just build a new b20v or further examine the k-swap.
the goals are....
b20v with lightweight crank, new rods, bearings, rings, high comp pistons (12:1 is the highest i can go with e10 91octane safely.)
then build the head - lightweight valves, springs, newer-style LMAs, maybe a mild p&p.
then the cams get upgraded like the cherry on top.
after it all gets tuned properly, if i don't have the numbers i want (280hp +/-) i will find out how to supercharge it.
then again maybe i should leave my compression ratio down near 11.5:1 and plan from the beginning to supercharge it.
thanks.
i'm not really liking turbos for a number of reasons. i like to push the envelope and it would be too easy to turn up the boost just a liiiiiitle bit more for some better numbers... and that isn't good because b20s have notoriously weak sleeves and no one on the island sleeves blocks.
also i'm not liking the turbo lag before boost, i want smoooooth even hp/tq numbers all throughout the powerband.... no waiting for the turbo to spool up and then letting off the gas because the car shoots forward...
@beansandrice - thanks for the insight.. to come to think of it i actually did see the oem blue filters on a few motors listed on those jdm import sites. scary that those might be original filters and oil with 40k miles.

@shaun - yeh i know 168k isn't super high miles, but it's more than i would like...
and yeah everyone wants a k-swap. but realistically i could make it happen... just gotta ask at what cost.
yeh everyone says turbo turbo but i don't really like what i hear. i like high compression NA, tuned perfectly, with lightweight rotating assemblies.
yeh two b-series for price of one k-series i hear that.
as of now i'm thinkin i will rebuild the b20v (168k) that i have and inspect all the internals for wear and replace anything that's damaged. if it doesn't look good inside the bottom end, i will just build a new b20v or further examine the k-swap.
the goals are....
b20v with lightweight crank, new rods, bearings, rings, high comp pistons (12:1 is the highest i can go with e10 91octane safely.)
then build the head - lightweight valves, springs, newer-style LMAs, maybe a mild p&p.
then the cams get upgraded like the cherry on top.
after it all gets tuned properly, if i don't have the numbers i want (280hp +/-) i will find out how to supercharge it.
then again maybe i should leave my compression ratio down near 11.5:1 and plan from the beginning to supercharge it.
thanks.



