I just got an email from my mechanic, James over at Mainstream. He's doing my h2b swap on the 19th and he just sent me a facebook message:

I'm not sure how to interpret this. Do I need to be hunting down a USDM intake manifold in order to get this thing to work in my 2000 civic?

The engine is a ~2000-2001 H23A bluetop:

Here's some pictures:





I've already stretched myself out a bit on my build, and I'd REALLY like to get one of the Rosko racing Euro R manifolds, but I think that's going to have to be down the road.

Do I need to be on the hunt for a USDM h22 manifold?

Thanks!!

-Adam

Edit: A number of prelude users say the IACVs are intechangeable http://www.preludezone.com/4th-gen-h...hangeable.html

 

Use rosko's adapter and a US h22 or h23 iacv and u won't need to use a h22 top half

 

Unless u have easy access to a h22 top half with an iacv

 

H23A1 non-vtec top half will work as well.

 

This is what Rosko said, adapter and USDM IACV.

Now I just need to find an IACV on the cheap.


I did find this

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/pts/2847623616.html


Edit, Conclusion:

Okay, I think I've got it figured out. I think I just need this:



and an h22/h23 nonvtec, or an f22/f34 sohc accord 2-wire IACV to get this working properly.

Anyone got a 2-wire IACV they want to sell me for the cheap? Got a buddy who can go to a pull a part on Monday, I may call some local junkyards.

 

Yeah pic a part or junkyard probably $10. I know some characters around here that would just throw it in their tool box.

 

Lol at guy thinking it would fit his b16

 

Okay, one of the h2b guys is sending me an IACV for the shipping cost

So now I just have to order the adapter.

 

That's awesome. Ill just be using one of his block off plates when I get to that part of the build.. Are you thinking about getting a euro r mani down the road?

 

Yep, it's a bit out of what I want to spend right now. And once I get the swap running the next thing is AMR coilovers and paint.

I'm already going from a d16y7 to an h23 with a custom ITR trans.

I'll be plenty happy with the stock motor/bolt ons performance for some time

70mm tb, 3" intake, logic header, full 2.5" exhaust, etc.

I'll be sure to post dyno

Glad I found the solution to the problem. Seems like the best/cheapest route for the time being. ~$50 and keeping the good manifold plenum sounds better than spending $130 on a local intake manifold, or $575 on the Euro R from rosko, (which i do want)

 

That's good I'm sure you will be happy. I would do the same if i were in your position. And I'm excited to see your dyno. It will be a while before mine does.