Well like the title says I am having a problem getting the inner part of the cv axle to come out of the transmission. it is an h22 transmission going into a 94 eg dx hb chassis and i have litterally tried everything to get the inner part of the cv axle out. I've tried an air hammer, punch, pry bar in every length imaginable. I am really frustrated with this and any help would greatly be appreciated and the transmission is out of the vehicle right now.

Edit* Some info on the transmission it is a mfactory gear set, final drive with synchro tech synchros in it. It has a obx lsd in it X.X. I don't think any these components would affect the axle from coming out of the transmission but what do i know lol.

 

OBX LSD, some of them were known for that, the tolerances are two tight or they just weren't machined quite right, I'm not sure, but you're far from the first guy that have that trouble with an OBX LSD.

 

yeah i thought that maybe, it is one of the later ones they made, but any advice getting it out or am i screwed?

 

Easy.

1. Pull DS axle
2. Pull mid shaft
3. Stick 3/8 extension through washers in carrier and tap her out ;O)
4. Profit.


If you haven't upgraded the washers in it (the diff) do it, NOW... Ive got one of the early OBX LSDs in my car and have beat the **** out of it for going on 4+ years. 650-750 WHP, and haven't had 1 problem with it. Ive broke 20 trannys, and a 4th (that had been updated.. new set fixed it never broke again NOT MFACTORY) gear-set in a built set and never had an issue with the diff. Ive had 1 axle do what you're talking about (Stock H series 5th gen lude axle, have NEVER broke one). The c clip was ****ed up.


Haven't broke the Mfactory set yet huh? How much power you making??? Good friend has that "pro set" and has broke 4th gear is it with 1000 miles on it at 600 WHP in a 3rd gen lude. Gear broke on M&Hs running me on the street at about 550 Wheel.

They were really good about replacing it, but cant figure out what happened. Totally peeled all the teeth off of it.
YMMV

 

Those washers are basically just for noise suppression, if that was the only problem with these things everyone would still be buying them. it's the runout issues that really caused problems. Older units were supposed to be ok though.

 

Those "noise suppression" washers ACTUALLY "preload" the outer gears of the diff (that the splines from the axles slide into) outward so that they dont travel "in" and come in contact with the worm gear pack and **** themselves up.... Ive seen it.

correct orientation is like this (some out of the box were wrong) lending to the issue, but the sub par washers temselves were breaking and causing issues regardless due to the aforentioned material quality issues:

)()()(

The runout issues are most def more notable (yet still hit and miss) in the newer units, weve covered that already.... But have nothing to do with why I said to change the CDM washers (that WILL break with any abuse as they are brittle and weak), let the center workings flail around and consume itself which CAN lead to the gears breaking (which the axle sples slide into) and cause issues.

Being Ive built ALOT of H trannys... ALOT. And successfully run an OBX for Years at high power levels with no issues due to what I'm talking about, I might know what I'm talking about... A little ;O)

Thanks.






OP: Linky to parts and tutorial (Note in the tutorial he mentions the NOISE aspect, but not the wearing of more than 20 percent of the outer gears inner surfaces when the washers re installed incorrectly or BROKEN) ;O)


http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm

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Spiker is GAY!

 

I haven't broke the transmission but that being said I am already looking for another transmission solution for this winter when the car is parked I am thinking of a liberty b series transmission and going h2b, I like my h22 transmission but after markets gears are a little to be desired...

 

Just ordered 3 Saenz straight-cut forged syncroed gearsets. HT mods saw to it that the thread was deleted, meh it is their policy ..... I get pretty good deals on them. Full 1-5 set goes for 3600 usually... I got them for 2900 per set.


I ran one before, I got it used and beat up and it held 650-750 WHP very well in a 3K LB Accord that hooks pretty dirty with big M&H 235s on it. Sold it as I beat on it for 3 years and planned on buying an Albins set but it was not to be. Too long, too much and not enough interest. Glad I got the 3 Saenz sets I did recently... If youre interested in info PM me.


We ordered them 3/4 and will have them in a couple weeks :O) So, nice quick turnaround and great deal. Especially when you consider you get 1-5


H2B is not an option I want to explore in the Accord, nor is ANY b series tranny stronger. In fact the B18Cx trannys use the same 3-4 slider hub and **** as an H tranny, but everything else is SMALLER, the only advantage to the B trans is the increased aftermarket support and axle alignment for civic or teg, I hate how they sit though. The fanboi myth that the b trannies are stronger is laughable and not true. Period.


TQ breaks trannys and cases. A 600 WHP H makes the same tq as a 750 WHP B series does... See where im going with this? ... More tq, SMALLER internals and cases that are known to crack without cuffs.... No thanks

 

well I do love my h transmission, well I have h series love in general ever since my 4th gen prelude i bought when I got off active duty orders. But for the moment I believe it has broke me just getting the car running, I wont be able to afford anything till I am done with classes this month however I would be interested in a set of those gears especially since I wouldn't have to give up 5th gear and it would be considerably stronger than my mfactory gear set...

 

but I did crack two h22 transmission cases as well but I was only going like 20 mph when it happened, i was so pissed.

 

also I was looking on saenz website they don't list a h series transmission, is this something that has to be ordered in bulk or do you have to contact them and special order?