Like the topic states, i am having problems with the crx. I have a y8 wired for obd1 with a p28 ecu running the car. I have been driving the car for about a half a year since the swap and it is now starting to give me problems.

For the past month when I go out to start the car, it sometimes will turn over but not fire. I can sit cranking it for a few secs 15-20 and it will eventually fire. I replaced the dist cap, rotor, wires, and plugs because I didnt when i swapped it, but the problem still happens since replacing those parts. Well the last two nights on my way home the car has been running hot, almost pegged and the needle is acting spurratically bouncing a little bit. One second it will be almost all the way hot then it will go back down to 1/2. (I was thinking it was a wiring problem, but all wires are soldered, heat shrinked and wire loomed.) I pulled up to my driveway last night and the car dies. I try to start it and nothing, the car wont even turn over. I wait 20 mins fire it up and pull it into the driveway. I let it idle and the temp gauge is 3/4 up. I shut the car off and pop the radiator cap to check the coolant level but there is no pressure built up. the coolant level is full, and the overflow is full to the proper level. The water pump and timing belt were replaced at the time of the swap with honda oem parts. The idle used to surge a little from about 800-1200 and then steady out. Now last night, and for the past few days when i pull up to a stop light the thing is idling at 250-400 and seems like it is going to die. I give it a lil gas while sitting at the stoplight to keep the idle up. I have an AEM adjustable cam gear set at 0 deg, and the timing is set at stock, or at least it was when i swapped the motor.

Anyone have any suggestions???? Any help would be much appreciated.
Steven


[Modified by cbrman, 8:10 PM 10/10/2002]

 

check the ecu for any codes if you haven't yet...its pass. side floor(just in case you forgot)...Your fast idle valve may be broken, make sure the hoses connecting upto the fiv aren't punctured or anything

o2 sensor, check that too


[Modified by altoid, 3:54 PM 10/10/2002]

 

yeah i need to get out there and work on it tomorrow if possible. The 02 sensor is brand new, just installed with the swap. less than 6k ago.

Thanks for the responses, will check for error codes when i get home from work.

Any other suggestions? what regulates the timing advance, just the ecu or input from any sensors?

 

Ok well i checked for error codes, and it wasnt really giving any codes. If i let it sit and idle when it went down in idle the cel would cut off for a sec then come back on. It did this once or twice but it isnt like when it flashes for a code.

Does that make any sense?

 

I've had the idleing problem for a while too. Guessing it's a vacuum leak. As far as overheating/engine temp jumping, I've started to have that problem recently. I say, check all your hoses for cracks, coolant leaks, weak spots, etc. I found a leak near the water pump, so i'm assuming it's the seal. Hopefully have that fixed by tomorrow and hopefully that does the trick. Also, maybe check thermostat. They're cheap.


[Modified by joeyb, 1:52 AM 10/14/2002]

 

Sounds like you have most of your ignition components in check.. it shouldnt be a fuel problem either. Going off of what youve said, first check all of the obvious.. since youre overheating, check all of the hoses for leaks.. if you can smell burning coolant, then thats most likely your problem. A slight leak can cause overheating and loss of pressure in the coolant flow.

Did you remember to bleed the air bubbles out of the coolant? I know a few friends who forgot to do this and the car would idle and die. This wouldnt explain why youre overheating though.
If worst comes to worst.. check the compression and check for any signs of white smoke.. maybe your head gasket is going bad..

 

Thanks for the responses. I guess i should add a few notes....
I have a brand new radiator and brand new hoses. They hoses were put in with the swap. I bled the cooling system and have been driving the car for over a half a year. I did purchase a thermostat, but did not put it in because nobody had or could get the gasket at the time so it sat in the garage.

Ever since the swap the idle would surge from about 800-1200. Recently the car has been giving problems when i try to start it, and the other day the idle dipped really low and the car started running hot. The fluid did not appear to be circulating in the radiator which could indicate the thermostat being stuck shut causing it to run hot........

Now i am just wondering about the idle and starting problem. I am gonna try and swap out the thermostat and see if that cures the temp issue. If not i will replace the temp sending unit on the thermostat housing.

Any other suggestions?

 

I'd go water pump route if you say the coolant isn't moving. Same thing happened to me. I stop at a light and idle, and my eng. temp. goes way up. I'm fixing it right now, hopefully my troubleshooting is correct. But, like the other buy said, worst, it's your head gasket. Good luck

 

Do you think that a water pump that is less than 6k old would fail? It is a honda oem water pump and it has been in for less than a year. I think it could be the thermostat sticking shut which would cause the coolant not to circulate to the radiator. I have a brand new thermostat ready to install, just have to put it in.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks
Steven

 

Sounds good. HOpefully it works out. Good luck!

 

Sweet guys thanks for the info so far. I was thinking the idle/hard start could be a fuel issue. I got some good ideas from 89y49 so i am thinking about installing a b&m fpr that way i will know exactly what fuel pressure i am getting.

I have a midterm in my computer org class tomorrow that is why i havent done any work to it yet. between work and school my spare time has been preparing for midterms.
Friday morning i am gonna do some work on it. thanks guys