What motor/tranny do I have?
Hello all,
I have a couple issues with my Jdm H22A idle. Before troubleshooting I am definately interested in what year prelude this motor came out of. I have no clue how to check. Also, once I determine the year, I would need to know what ECU would naturally come with the motor. I just got this car 2 weeks ago for 600, and the IACV/FITV were NOT hooked up, the car was running (awful) on the BASEmap ecu. I also have a P06 Teknotik (Chipped? Tuned?) ECU which makes the car agressive as f*k.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a couple issues with my Jdm H22A idle. Before troubleshooting I am definately interested in what year prelude this motor came out of. I have no clue how to check. Also, once I determine the year, I would need to know what ECU would naturally come with the motor. I just got this car 2 weeks ago for 600, and the IACV/FITV were NOT hooked up, the car was running (awful) on the BASEmap ecu. I also have a P06 Teknotik (Chipped? Tuned?) ECU which makes the car agressive as f*k.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
There is a VIN behind the block by the oil pan. As for the year check the head, there should be two numbers.
I would really recommend getting rid of that ECU. ECU's with base maps are nothing but problems.
Dont quote me but if its 96 99 H22A its P5P. If its 92 95 its P13.
I would really recommend getting rid of that ECU. ECU's with base maps are nothing but problems.
Dont quote me but if its 96 99 H22A its P5P. If its 92 95 its P13.
Thanks! But, honestly between the 2 ecu's the basemap runs the best! Besides my idle going up n down, and at operating temp. she drops to 0 almost killing the car, then shoots up to 1200 or 1,000.
To better explain, I made a video! Here it is guys (I had the car on so you can't see the idle going up n down to warm the car up, it stops doing that.. and this starts, once she is off cold:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuzqR...ature=youtu.be
Ne help would be sweet. Also, when I got the car the FITV and was NOT hooked up. I ran 2 coolant hoses to it, 1 from the IACV and I THINK?! I fixed it. I'm assuming the choked rev would have to do with a clogged fuel filter?
To better explain, I made a video! Here it is guys (I had the car on so you can't see the idle going up n down to warm the car up, it stops doing that.. and this starts, once she is off cold:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuzqR...ature=youtu.be
Ne help would be sweet. Also, when I got the car the FITV and was NOT hooked up. I ran 2 coolant hoses to it, 1 from the IACV and I THINK?! I fixed it. I'm assuming the choked rev would have to do with a clogged fuel filter?
Last edited by H22_CB7_JAY; Mar 6, 2012 at 10:31 AM.
There is a VIN behind the block by the oil pan. As for the year check the head, there should be two numbers.
I would really recommend getting rid of that ECU. ECU's with base maps are nothing but problems.
Dont quote me but if its 96 99 H22A its P5P. If its 92 95 its P13.
I would really recommend getting rid of that ECU. ECU's with base maps are nothing but problems.
Dont quote me but if its 96 99 H22A its P5P. If its 92 95 its P13.
That's kind of sounds like it's more in the tune. I would suggest that you get everything hooked up properly. The coolant hoses all hooked up to the FIT & IAC valves. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks. Then you should ether run a stock OBD1 P13 or get one of your chipped ECU's tuned.
Where you just bought someone's problems. It's kind of hard to tell what, if anything, has been done with the wiring as well. What year Accord is this in would be helpful as well?
Surging idle can be caused by;
Air pocket in coolant system or ECT sensor not working or not pugged in
Vacuum leak
Dirty or malfunctioning IAC valve
improperly adjusted FIT valve
Where your surging issue seems only to be until the engine warms up. I would point toward the FIT valve for that warm up surging issue. As for that low burp after it warms up, that seems like it might be a tuning/temp fuel correction thing. Check your ECT sensor.
Where you just bought someone's problems. It's kind of hard to tell what, if anything, has been done with the wiring as well. What year Accord is this in would be helpful as well?
Surging idle can be caused by;
Air pocket in coolant system or ECT sensor not working or not pugged in
Vacuum leak
Dirty or malfunctioning IAC valve
improperly adjusted FIT valve
Where your surging issue seems only to be until the engine warms up. I would point toward the FIT valve for that warm up surging issue. As for that low burp after it warms up, that seems like it might be a tuning/temp fuel correction thing. Check your ECT sensor.
Trending Topics
That's kind of sounds like it's more in the tune. I would suggest that you get everything hooked up properly. The coolant hoses all hooked up to the FIT & IAC valves. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks. Then you should ether run a stock OBD1 P13 or get one of your chipped ECU's tuned.
Where you just bought someone's problems. It's kind of hard to tell what, if anything, has been done with the wiring as well. What year Accord is this in would be helpful as well?
Surging idle can be caused by;
Air pocket in coolant system or ECT sensor not working or not pugged in
Vacuum leak
Dirty or malfunctioning IAC valve
improperly adjusted FIT valve
Where your surging issue seems only to be until the engine warms up. I would point toward the FIT valve for that warm up surging issue. As for that low burp after it warms up, that seems like it might be a tuning/temp fuel correction thing. Check your ECT sensor.
Where you just bought someone's problems. It's kind of hard to tell what, if anything, has been done with the wiring as well. What year Accord is this in would be helpful as well?
Surging idle can be caused by;
Air pocket in coolant system or ECT sensor not working or not pugged in
Vacuum leak
Dirty or malfunctioning IAC valve
improperly adjusted FIT valve
Where your surging issue seems only to be until the engine warms up. I would point toward the FIT valve for that warm up surging issue. As for that low burp after it warms up, that seems like it might be a tuning/temp fuel correction thing. Check your ECT sensor.
Welcome to another fellow Canuck! 
$600 is a pretty good price if she's clean and free from rust. I'm sure you can get it up and running properly if you take your time and troubleshoot.
The ECT is the engine coolant temperature sensor. It is the two wire sensor located in the head directly under the distributor.

$600 is a pretty good price if she's clean and free from rust. I'm sure you can get it up and running properly if you take your time and troubleshoot.
The ECT is the engine coolant temperature sensor. It is the two wire sensor located in the head directly under the distributor.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




