I live in san diego and its pritty warm now, went to the local mountains/canyons for a spin and it was even hotter and whenever my meth activates at like 3500 rpm my IAT check engine light comes on and my car stalls and wont go pass 3500.
I unpluged the battery and reset it, didnt work... Code came back..
When i got closer to home "coastal" it ran perfect and strong like it always has...
What could be wrong. I didnt want to unplug the IAT sensor and run it because i wasnt shure if it had important imput into the tune.
Tuned at Church Tunning in Long beach. Meth activates at 3500 rpm blablabla...
Need some help

 

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take your iat sensor out and bench test it.
meaning,remove the sensor, attach a meter across the two terminals, set your ohm meter to 100 ohms and see what readings you get. at room temp it should be around 2 ohms and as temperature drops the resistance should rise upwards to 100 ohms.
ifyou dont own a meter go buy one at autozone sears,snap on, blue point, fluke, frys,etc

 

^^ thats my next step, testing that sensor with my ohm reader... Probably till tuesday, untill then ill take more suggestions...

 

sea level to mountain driving is a big change in elevation. Could be to much mth injection and cooling the sensor to quickly or at an un-natural rate cauing a code ???

 

^^Thats something that i thought about.... What would happen if i unplug that sensor?? Is it important on the tunning process?? Looks like it is because that one little sensor kills my car when it chills by meth.. Only in the hot weather though (95) like i said i came inland and my car had no more issues and running fast with the IAT code 10 on... Elevation change was about 1500ft and then 3000ft 90weather.. Down to sea level 80..

 

you cannot run a fuel injected engine without the air temp sensor. there is also a possibility that the intake air temp corrections tables need to be adjusted for the higher heat. Are you running any kind of thermal break intake gasket? where is your intake temp sensor located?

 

You guys are right on the spot as i do more and more research. It is verry bad to remove the sensor.. I dont have a thermal break gasket and my IAT sensor is on the manifild. Which both seem to be verry important.
The manifold gets scorching hot as is plus turbo makes it even hotter, then by adding meth the temperature change is too much and there goes the malfunction check engine code 10. Im reading an s2k thread about this, and honda changes the possition of IAT senso from the manifold to the intake pipe on the second gen s2k.. And other hondas as the years went on...
Im tunned at sea level and live at sea level, weather stays at 72* 80% of the year...

 

What management do you run, i dont think the change in IAT should throw a code. I run No2 and boost. The tempature drop will be much more significant with no2 then water/meth. I doubt that is what is causing it. Mine is also located on my intake manifold on the 1st cyl runner. it is better to have it on the intake arm as you can have heat soak on the manifold. I would swap it out with a good known sensor(there not alot of $) and see if that works

 

I run Hondata. Running through some thoughts/ options...
Thermal manifold gasket, new sensor. I heard theres a thermal spacer for the IAT that drops the heat rage aswell.. Looking for that little spacer.. Maybe even picking up an aftermarket AEM IAT sensor..
Once i got down to sea level and a bit cooler it ran perfect and strong as always.
Its been boosted for 2 years with no issues untill now, never driven in weather conditions this hot either 90* + sticky..

 

Have you tested your iat yet?
Swapping it to another sensor may not fix anything, but if you got money to blow make it rain..