delgsrsol

so this is what im thinking so far

eagle rods
wiseco 9:1 pistons
stock gsr crank
walbro 255 fuel pump
550cc injectors
t3/t4 preferably .63A/R
s300
arp head studs
new head gasket
and tune obviously

i already have a full MSD ignition system and ITR cams with stock retainers and springs

i was wondering if getting a new (large plenum short runners) IM will help that much over my stock gsr?

new fuel rail and/or new fuel lines?

stick with ITR cams i dont think theyre too aggressive of a cam for my build cause i know alot of people run GSR cams?

im rebuilding a blown dsm right now to sell to afford all this so this isnt going to start happening for a little bit im just trying to get everything i want squared away before i start dumping money into it

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Stock IM is more than enough

T3/T4 (though a very General term, I get it) that's enough.

You state nothing of injectors. Please use 440cc +

Otherwise, unless you need to do mechanical maintanence on the ca, Headgasket and studs aren't necessary either.

Mix, stir, enjoy.

delgsrsol

yea im going with 550cc and i im probably going with the t04e 57 trim .63A/R

shawty22

If your going to use ITR cams i would get springs and retainers. Just for insurance, plus its always fun to rev past 8000rpm

racebum

why would you choose such low compression?

as for the R cams, just buy the correct springs from acura. you can re use your seats and retainers. technically you can move your intake GSR springs to the exhaust and just buy R intakes but i would replace both sides. springs from 199x that are inexpensive to replace really should be during a rebuild

mechanix619

Do you have the engine disassembled or is it in the car? For me that would determine a lot of next step decisions. If it's in the car you can always boost as is, that is as long as there aren't any leaks or issues. Run it till something happens then rebuild as needed.

The idea is to keep it simple. Only spend money were it is needed.

For example, I'd ditch the MSD ignition and spend that money elsewhere. The stock ignition is more than adequate.

I'd also stick with GSR cams. The ITR/CTR will yield better numbers but again not necessary for your HP goal.

If the engine was out of the car I'd probably do pistons, rods, and headstuds as my "upgrade" parts. I'd maybe consider springs and retainers for extra "insurance," but still with GSR cams. This is also under the assumption that I'd get bored with 350WHP and would look for a little more in the future. Those upgrades would allow me some wiggle room for maybe 400-450WHP later.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Pretty much

shawty22

Hes rebuilding a DSM then selling it, so he can start a build for a honda. Therefore hes going to be starting from scratch.

racebum

if you're starting from scratch plan the whole build around a realistic hp goal. if you like to tinker, drag race and enjoy max power the build will be totally different than a road racer or someone seeking maximum reliability.

also decide if it will be pump or e85. if big numbers are a goal i highly suggest designing around e85 from the get go.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Keep it stock till it pops...

DirtyDA9

Ditch the MSD. For boost you could remove the secondary butterflies in the GSR manifold. Why are you building the bottom end, and hardly touching the head? You don't need a fuel rail or lines.

delgsrsol

im sticking with 93 octane and its going to be driven weekly

the itr cams and msd ignition are already in the car (came with the motor)

right now its a daily I/H/E type r cams and msd ignition

im pretty sure i have a small head gasket leak so i have to replace that and its literary like three more bolts and the oil pan (and obviously rod bolts) to tear the motor apart so thats why im spending the time to do rods and pistons
and also the fact that im going to drive it so often i want it reliable

and for the low compression reason its for a reliable build i can still meet my 300-350hp goal on 9:1 compared to the gsr 10:1

and yes i was wondering about the valve spring issue and thanks thats probably what ill do

and idk if i want to go threw the trouble of removing the secondary butterflies in the IM they open at 4300 i think which shouldnt be a problem

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

For 300-350whp, changing out the butterflies isn't needed. Its only when you start upgrading even from what you plan on doing would it need to be a concern.

You're fine with your MSD if its already in there. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

delgsrsol

yea i hear that i cant wait to work on hondas again dsm's are seriously made to not be worked on it blows

DirtyDA9

DSM's not made to be worked on? The fyuck are you talking about? lol

crvtectim

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Hope you weren't thinkimg about just throwing the forged pistons in without pulling the block. Block will have to be machined for proper piston to wall clearance. Forged pistons expand. If you need a headgasket jist pull the head and go with Arp headstuds. As long as the rest of the motor is healthy then 300 on a stock gsr is pretty easy. Ppl have pushed them a lot further then that. Tuner near me took his daily LS to 383 whp if i remember right bone stock. It's his daily.

crvtectim

Not to mention balancing the new forged rotating assembly also. ^

Cannot be done in car.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

delgsrsol

i was planning on honing the block but do i really need to get it balanced?

and if i use std 81mm bore pistons would i still really need to get the block machined?

racebum

in a word....yes

when you change the weight of the rotating assembly you should rebalance. think about how high these engines spin. being off 10 grams would be a disaster

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

You can't just pull stock cast pistons out, hone, and slap forged pistons in. The cylinders will have to be bored to get the proper clearance because forged pistoms expand. In fact the clearances vary depending on which brand your using.

sanman000719

stock block will yeild 500whp man let it be and run it on some corn for the win

Whiterice-gsr

^^^agreed 100 percent. you are way overthinking this, turbo, injectors, tune and enjoy, 57 trim is a great size turbo up to about 430 hp and your stock motor is fine for boost i would not even touch the pistons or lower the compression for that matter, if you have to do the headgasket anyway then i would do arp studs with oem/ge gasket just cuz u have it off already.

racebum

that's what i was thinking too. stock block and pump gas are fine in that 300-350whp range. on e85 that turbo could push right about 420-430, i know gringotegra got 444whp out of a 57 trim on e85 with a ramhorn on a stock gsr with R cams and a blox manifold. lasted a little while before a rod let go.