So my jdm h22a is on a stand, blown head gasket. I have the cams out and im puting in skunk 2's and pro 2 ti retainers and valve springs, new valve stems and i decided to rebuild the block while the head is off and waiting for parts. So ill replace bolts, studs, main bearings, rods thrust bearings, and piston rings.
question is what can i replace with usdm and what do i have to order, i know the jdm pistons are different than usdm so the rings must be too?

AND for the crazy question could i run stage 3 skunk2's on a stock jdm h22a block? i want to get bisimoto prototype headers and itb's talon injectors and ill get a tune once ive put it together and it runs, but im not sure what program to go with either, anything else i would need in order to run the stage 3's on stock block? or if i cant what else do i need for the stage 2's to perform at there best

 

If you are talking pro series, they really need more compression to get the best out of them. I think most guys see good results with 12.0 to 1 or more for the pro 2, and 12.5/13 to 1 on the pro 3.

Also these cams are going to make power higher in the rev range, and for longer than stock, so a good balance job on the bottom end, and a good tune are musts.

 

Replacing main studs means you have to take the block to the machine shop to get lined honed. The clamping force of the arp mains is higher than stock which distorts the journal.

Also, you need to do morr research on how engines work. You cant exoect a low compression motor to run at its peak with a race cam.

Your choice in exhaust components also frightens me in how much research you have actually done.

Why rebuild a block that doesnt show any signs of wear? Get a head gasket, valvetrain, cams..etc, get the bitch tuned and go have fun.

Building a motor is more than just picking from a list of parts and slapping it together.

 

well before i slap the new head gasket im getting the block decked so ill get the blocked milled a little over, i'll have to see what i can safely go to

ill go with pro2's and look for a 12:1 comp

my other idea for header was a hytech but i dont know if i wanna spend that much, i like it to look and perform good, bisimoto h22 headers are a 4 - 1 header so any other ideas for a good 4 - 1

and id like to rebuild the block so i dont have after i rip the cams, and its about time for new rings and i hope my frm sleeves aren't destroyed this jdm has almost 180xxxkm

and i tune before it sees vtec

thanks for the advise

 

and everyone knows 3 inch exhaust on a h22

 

well sounds like you know it all already why you here asking questions ?

 

bisimoto is junk **** that doesnt live up to what its marketed as.

if you are into looks instead of having your money actually do what you want it to do, go to the appearance forum. Im sure they can help you better.

 

thanks for the tip on bisimoto but if that's all the info you have to offer shut the **** up I'm hear to have questions answered, why the **** else would anybody be on this website, obviously you dont know,

so what kind of program should i get before the tune on this setup,

also if i use a .014 head gasket can i mill .020 safely without wrecking anything in the combustion chamber *using pro2's

 

Your talking at the guy who went 11s on the 1/4 mile Naturally Aspirated. I'd listen and learn a bit.

Just saying

 

He probably doesn't know this since (judging from his thread title...), he owns an EG Civic.

I'd Stray away from Skunk 2 performance products.....better stuff out there.

 

telling people to shut the ... up is definatly not a good way to ask for assistance genious. Blake knows his stuff maybe you should back up and re-evaulate. As far as tuning goes, take it to someone that knows what they are doing. If you are having to ask about what software to use you don't need to try experimenting with a built engine, unless you have alot of extra money laying around.

 

In for "I blew my car up I don't know why thread" next.....

clown. But don't worry, we're all still going to be willing to help you.

 

Not really.....

 

yeah........ sarcasm......... yeah........

 

i decided since im replacing all the bearings fasteners and hardware im gonna wait an extra pay day and get some mahle gold series 11.5's and eagle rods combo

can someone tell me a good block mill for this setup

everytime i ask something your all like little ****ing kids saying you know everything but all you do is talk

 

Well, if you think you know everything why don't you stop asking questions?

The question you asked doesn't make any sense btw. Thats all you get till you stop with the bullshit.

 

^^^^ +1.

I am also doing a rebuild because I was playing with my own tuning (hondata) and it probably contributed to spinning a bearing bc I was idling too low and the oil wasn't flowing properly (my guess).

I will tell you what I know so hopefully you will be a little nicer to everyone here.

#1. There is a calculator to try out when checking possible p2d heights.
http://www.zealautowerks.com/hfseries.html ....check it out, you can also figure in how much you milled, your headgasket size, and even your custom rod or piston sizes.

#2 I don't know the exact p2v on a stock US h22a1 or a stock JDM h22a. If you find it, please post it on my topic..lol

#3 If i understand correctly, higher compression means less suitable for turbo, and also less suitable for the more aggressive cams. (I am not 100% about the cams...I just read it on this page before I started typing this reply). Also, if I understand correctly, higher compression means higher piston max height....more aggressive cams will open the valves more (further down toward the piston)....if they touch: GAME OVER.

#4 The most highly-experienced people on this site are like GODS. I don't mean that they are perfect. I mean that they like to help those that help themselves. "Google first, post topics later" is what I have figured out. They love to help with special projects or difficult questions, but all the basics have been answered a million times (here and other sites). I would not enjoy spending my free time every day answering the same questions.

#5 There is lots of discussion on misc useful info about how to choose your rebuild setup in my current topic "h22 rebuild, NASA style."

#6 Google for "h22" "f22 crank". You might be interested in this since you are going all the way with your rebuild. It's also highly discussed in "NASA style". It'll give you higher compression using your stock pistons due to a longer stroke and you don't even have to mill/deck your block or pay $$$$ for high-dollar pistons ...and you might get away with using the oem-thick headgasket (i will know when I clay my engine in a month or so..lol). Just get a f22b crank/rods from good motor at a junk yard and have them balanced. Buuuuut, some people say not to rev past 6800, and others say it's ok up to 8k??

 

Use that calculator to find your stock h22 setup's "piston-to-deck" height. (a NEGATIVE- value means it sticks outside the top of the block, which is ok a little according to my searching, but do your own searching for "h22" "piston-to-deck". Then compare the stock number to what people say is safe, then compare that to the calculated piston-to-deck based on the custom values for your mahle 11.5/eagle rods. You will need to search for those values or read the eBay page..lol. Carefully study the calculator page I linked above...it is exactly what you need to find your perfect setup. I still wish I knew the EXACT p2v on a US or a JDM h22. I think you already know that if you are too far out of the deck, your p will hit your v...giggity..lol but that is NOT good..just sounds dirty.

 

U mad bro? Maybe you should research a bit and maybe you could find the answers that you seek. If somebody gives you some sort of advice, you should probably take it. If you asked about a specific type of header and theres negative reviews, its because it has been tested on different setups with very little results. You say we act like kids, but it seems like you need to grow up a bit.