I have a stock bore h22a with mahle gold 11.5.1 high comp pistons installed in my 95 integra. I was curious to know if anybody builds hc turbo h22a's and if they are reliable. I would love to have just a 10/15 psi set up for daily driving but i dont want to destroy the bottem end. I wouldnt buy a kit i would do a build it yourself turbo kit with a regular t3/t4 turbo build. The regular 53.ar housing and a 38mm wastegate. But if i couldnt do a turbo build i guess i will build a touge integra. My next step is a skunk 2 head package and a stage 1 or 2 cam and is absolute that u must get a tune with a aftermarket stage 1 cam?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

 

It can be done with a really good tuner.

 

Sounds like you need to make a decision about 3 items:
1. budget of your project
2. power goal
3. whether you want to stay NA or go FI
To reiterate, whether you go FI or stay NA, tuning is critical to getting the most out of your setup and ensuring that it will last.

 

Very possible with a good tune as has been stated. The other thing that would really help you, is if you can run E85 to help reduce the chances of detonation.

 

^^x2 on the e85. It'd be tough to get a tune with that much boost, that high of compression and pump gasoline.

 

For a daily driver it wont be very practical. You'll have to spend quite a bit, more than a traditional turbo build, and I'll be a broken record and say again, e85.. usually high compression is the enemy of forced induction, however it's not impossible, it's just not really what I'd personally go for when it comes to a daily, I probably wouldn't do a high comp/FI build at all... ever. Like stated above, it all comes down to how much money you want to spend.

 

Are you aware of what 10psi on 11.5:1 makes for power?

I'm 10:1, at 10psi I'm at right around 400whp with a PTE 5857, 470whp at 15psi.

I would say 11.5:1 could be done, I wouldn't go to 10psi+ without sleeving the block though. Oh and E85 ...

Instead of shooting for a psi goal, what are you looking for power wise? What are you going to use the power for, DD, Drag, Auto-X?

You don't have to get a tune with anything ... if you don't mind blowing up engines.

I wouldn't even recommend driving a boosted engine without tuning it, break it in on the dyno.

Also, A/R doesn't mean anything, without knowing the other specs of the turbo. Nor does trim for that matter.

You need to research more.

You could always slap any old turbo on your car, go drive it down the street without engine management and let us know how long until you throw a rod out the side of the block or you have no power cause you either burnt a hole in a piston or cracked all the ring lands.

 

I have a supercharged g22 vtec 92 4dr civic and it has 11.78:1 static compression which is high on a f22a1 block and crank but i have a f20b head on it and f20b pistons on f22 rods. I was thinking what the outcome would be trying to compress the gas and forced air in a little squished area might cause some issues. I have not ran it yet with the supercharger but it's connected. The charger is from a toyota previa it throws out 6-10 psi so i don't know what's going to happen but i will update you on that.

 

ive never ran a turbo or every built a setup so im just gonna stay n/a the car is a champ right now as it is. Im just gonna buy a valve train kit skunk2 and maybe a skunk 2 cam i want a stage 2 came but id prolly have to get it dyno tuned and there isant really any dynojets around where i live id have to drive to nc and idk if a stage 2 cam would be reliable to drive 200 miles and ruin a good car. So plans for the h are 3 inch exhaust "crush bent" unfortunately, spoon muffler, skunk pro valve springs, ti retainers, and base kit, cam gears, and rmf header. Then a good cam skunk stage 2 but if it requires tuning ill go with a stage one. And I've heard that 3inch exhaust is a good gain on my setup. It seems it has too much back pressure and its like not running at full potental till after 4,000 rpms. Plus i have a stock muffler at the end of my 2.5 and it only has 1 resonator, so I really think the car is really constipated with the 2.5 and plus i heard the gains were pretty legit on 3 inch somethin like 10whp and 10tq but idk. Thanks for all ur help though its greatly appreciated. Anymore help would be dope.

 

With any of the Skunk2 cams you need a tune, and the cams should be properly set up i.e. degreed, and V2V and P2V checked, which involves taking the head off the engine.

If you can drop the cash for all the Skunk2 bits, and an RMF header, why not spend the little extra on a 3" mandrel bent exhaust instead of crushed? If you don't have engine management factored in, look at that as well.

 

yea im just gonna keep my 2.5 mandrel and delete other resonator. The muffler is getting bought monday. Then I guess Im gonna try and get the rmf header, save the internal work for last. I didn't realize u had to take the head off to install a cam. valvetrain before the cam. Ive got my eye on jun cam gears.