Em1, changed dizzy, car won't start
I have a 2000 civic Si that I converted to obd1.. The car had a Clifford alarm... While street tuning my tuner said my dizzy was going bad... Few weeks later I get a cel code 9... I buy a oem dizzy that was tested and worked... I start removing the current dizzy and I notice there's a wire tapped into the blue wire on the dizzy plug which is the tach wire for the Clifford... I remove it and do the same to the new dizzy... Bolt the new dizzy back on and try starting the car and no luck... It doesn't turn over... No spark... So I put the old dizzy back on and it does the same thing...what could it be? It worked fine a few hours ago... Changing the dizzy is easy... What could of gone wrong? Thanks!
I don't see where you reattached the little blue wire. If you put it back to the last known working state (with the alarm still wired in) does the car start?
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nothing, other than incorrect firing order. or an electrical connector. im not familiar with alarm wiring, but it may be possible that the alarm is preventing the car from starting??
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????!!!!!! IDK what that even means. Why is the car suddenly off timing?
OP: what do you mean the car is converted to OBD1? Was the previous distributor an OBD1 distributor? Is the new distributor OBD1 or OBD2?
Weird situations I have encountered with distributors:
-Removed distributor and tugged on the harness. This caused the thermostat ground connection to break and the car wouldn't run. Check that.
-Some jackass put the rotor blade on backwards...and then jammed the distributor on 180 degrees off. So the car ran. When I removed the distributor and put it on correctly, it was 180 degrees off and the car wouldn't run. I checked by pulling the cap off and rotating the motor manually to TDC. I saw it was pointing at cylinder 4. So I removed the blade, flipped it, and the car started right up no problem.
You're not getting spark...so I doubt that the 180 degrees off thing is the problem. How have you tested for spark?
OP: what do you mean the car is converted to OBD1? Was the previous distributor an OBD1 distributor? Is the new distributor OBD1 or OBD2?
Weird situations I have encountered with distributors:
-Removed distributor and tugged on the harness. This caused the thermostat ground connection to break and the car wouldn't run. Check that.
-Some jackass put the rotor blade on backwards...and then jammed the distributor on 180 degrees off. So the car ran. When I removed the distributor and put it on correctly, it was 180 degrees off and the car wouldn't run. I checked by pulling the cap off and rotating the motor manually to TDC. I saw it was pointing at cylinder 4. So I removed the blade, flipped it, and the car started right up no problem.
You're not getting spark...so I doubt that the 180 degrees off thing is the problem. How have you tested for spark?
maybe the solenoid burnt out happen to my friend doing a timing bely on his d16 he bolted everything back up and when we went to crank the car up it wouldn't start keep in mind he didn't even touch the dizzy while working on it then he jst put mine in and the car cranked right up
I have a obd1 jumper and chipped ecu...
Timing was off like 45 degrees... If that makes any sense...
We tested for spark by pulling out a spark plug wire and touched a nut on the valve cover and it sparks so we knew the dizzy worked...
Timing was off like 45 degrees... If that makes any sense...
We tested for spark by pulling out a spark plug wire and touched a nut on the valve cover and it sparks so we knew the dizzy worked...
I checked all the grounds and everything looks good... We noticed the car was off timing, I don't know how that happened from 1 sec to another but the car has been driving shitty for the passed week.. My buddy touched the belt and it was soft so he said the tensioner probably went bad...
I found this:

and here's the thread:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/help-obd2-obd1-dizzy-alt-wiring-1736189/
Also did you get a 99-00 Si dizzy? I know that the way the wires go on the dizzy are different for 1.8s say if you have a GSR or ITR dizzy.

and here's the thread:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/help-obd2-obd1-dizzy-alt-wiring-1736189/
Also did you get a 99-00 Si dizzy? I know that the way the wires go on the dizzy are different for 1.8s say if you have a GSR or ITR dizzy.
I found this:

and here's the thread:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1736189
Also did you get a 99-00 Si dizzy? I know that the way the wires go on the dizzy are different for 1.8s say if you have a GSR or ITR dizzy.

and here's the thread:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1736189
Also did you get a 99-00 Si dizzy? I know that the way the wires go on the dizzy are different for 1.8s say if you have a GSR or ITR dizzy.
when you put the dizzy in
1. put motor at TDC piston 1
2. check that rotor button is at position 1 pluglead
3 then put new dizzy in and make sure rotor button is at position 1 pluglead
4 start engine and check timming with timming light
this is how to avoide 180 deg out
if you just put the dizzy on with out looking and setting the motor as above
you would have the rotot button pointed at plug lead 4 "thats 180 out"
1. put motor at TDC piston 1
2. check that rotor button is at position 1 pluglead
3 then put new dizzy in and make sure rotor button is at position 1 pluglead
4 start engine and check timming with timming light
this is how to avoide 180 deg out
if you just put the dizzy on with out looking and setting the motor as above
you would have the rotot button pointed at plug lead 4 "thats 180 out"



