Time for a rebuild - Need input
Looking to pull my B18C5 out within the next few weeks and begin an OEM rebuild. The motor now burns oil and needs rings, so i figured now that it's at 150,000 miles, it can't hurt to do a rebuild. I'm looking to replace most major components in the head and block including the clutch, seals, bearings ,tensioners, gaskets, ect, that i should change while the motor is out. The motor will go to a machine shop and i will not be performing any of the motor work myself, other then locating and buying the parts.
I'm trying to put together a list of OEM parts and part numbers of appropriate parts to buy and replace for the motor, and gather any adivce from R owners who have done an OEM rebuild before. I haven't done this before and I'm sure I'm missing a few things in the mental list I made, so i'm just looking to create an order list.
So far:
Change all valves, valve steam seals, pistons, rings, ect. Need a legitimate list, and part numbers! Thanks guys.
I'm trying to put together a list of OEM parts and part numbers of appropriate parts to buy and replace for the motor, and gather any adivce from R owners who have done an OEM rebuild before. I haven't done this before and I'm sure I'm missing a few things in the mental list I made, so i'm just looking to create an order list.
So far:
Change all valves, valve steam seals, pistons, rings, ect. Need a legitimate list, and part numbers! Thanks guys.
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org
Wait on bearings until you get the letters and numbers from the block and rods.
And, you may want to consider going .25mm OS on the pistons.
Wait on bearings until you get the letters and numbers from the block and rods.
And, you may want to consider going .25mm OS on the pistons.
I did a lil teaser vid when i did mine. I went .25 over on mine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIr5_PKMWIA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIr5_PKMWIA
don't assume that rings are the sole reason you're burning oil. the exhaust valve seals especially cause a good deal of this. have you done a leakdown and vacuum test on the engine? a healthy ITR engine should show 22-23" of vacuum at idle when fully warm. if you have solid leakdown numbers and good vacuum your likely culprit is seals. seals are also what speed the exhaust valves to their death by allowing them to coat with soot. guides also wear of course but seals are a big part. if you could buy yourself another 30k with a simple seal change you would be money ahead
I would say stick with all stock parts and stock bore. Although if you change your mind, i do have Weisco 81.5mm 12:0 compression pistons for sale.
I am sticking to a stock, OEM rebuild only. No exceptions. As of right now, my timing belt had slipped and i'm not about to spend the money to replace the belt with the chances of it not running right after because of bent valves, so might as well just take it all apart and replace it. It doesn't matter if its rings or valve steam seals that are causing it to burn oil because i want to replace it all anyway, though the head was replaced at 60k miles or so i'm going to still say its the rings, and so has several mechanics who've looked in to it for me.
I just want a fresh motor out of all this, not looking for any modifications in the process. and why OS the pistons to .25? Like i said i'm new at this so please be patient, as this will be a learning experience for me.
I just want a fresh motor out of all this, not looking for any modifications in the process. and why OS the pistons to .25? Like i said i'm new at this so please be patient, as this will be a learning experience for me.
you don't need to OS the pistons unless the cylinders are out of round. you can run a cast piston up to .0020 piston to wall and be fine. OE is generally a bit tighter than this so you can clean the bore up and rehone with new rings. make sure you have a GOOD torque wrench for this if you're going to assemble. also check the deck of the block for being true. most b18c blocks distort over time and will flatten out with .010 taken off, sometimes less. use OE parts, seals, bearings.
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send the engine to golden eagle, endyn or english racing in camas, wa.
i would not trust a local machine shop UNLESS they specialize in these engines.
there are multiple places to make mistakes rebuilding one of these
you will be money ahead spending the cash on fed ex.
i would not trust a local machine shop UNLESS they specialize in these engines.
there are multiple places to make mistakes rebuilding one of these
you will be money ahead spending the cash on fed ex.
I ended up with clearance closer to .0028" when I tried to use non oversized pistons. You could hone and then measure assuming that the original piston is the same size and see what you end up with before buying the new set.
Thanks for the info. Fortunatly there is a reputable machine shop two miles down the road from my house who has worked on many of my friends B series engines, and haven't heard a complaint yet, so I have that part covered.
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