Hey guys I have a 1997 Accord with a low Idle. I have removed the IAC and cleaned. I have done the Idle speed setting just like the manual. But it I just can not get the idle up to 700 rpm. No mater how far a run the adjusting screw out it will not come up. Is there any thing else i need to look at.

 

check for trouble codes?

your's is OBD II so goto autozone for a free scan

check and clean the throttle body valve?

guess you already checked/replaced the air filter... pcv... vacuum leaks... plugs...etc...

 

don't you adjust idle by adjusting dizzy position? assuming it's a four cylinder.

 

NO, that will adjust the ignition timing.

 

I should also mention you should confirm your ignition timing is set correctly if you are having idle issues.

 

IACV Explained

Base timing isn't adjustable on a '97.

 

REALLY? Please do tell this story.

 

Now to the OP. Explain the steps you went thru to set the base idle.

 

Yeah, I agree check your timing, make sure the passage is clear to adjust your idle, something is wrong if you cannot get over 700 with adjustment, really on a 97 that screw should have been covered because if idle is incorrect it isn't because of that screw, unless previously adjusted. If on a honda or if you have another car for some reason and you spin the distributor it will change the idle a little but that is a reaction from what you are doing to the ignition timing, which in a very mild situation could accomodate bad base timing.

 

It was in reference to "don't you adjust idle by adjusting dizzy position?"

On OBDII cars the distributor isn't slotted; it can't be turned.

 

This is correct, I was thinking of the OBDI distributors which have 3 slotted, or adjustable mounting locations.
The OBDII distributors on Accords do not have adjustable mount locations, therefore cannot be adjusted to effect base timing.
If you look at an OBDII distributor, the top and rear mount locations appear adjustable however, the forward mount is a single hole, this fixes the distributor in place.

 

^

does this happen with the engine cold or hot?

the iacv's purpose is to keep the idle constant when loads are put on the engine when warmed up. if your loosening your idle screw and the idle does not move then you problem most likely lies in an extremely dirty throttle body. remove the throttle body. remove the idle screw. clean all the black build up with some carb cleaner or brakekleen or paint thinner or any other kind of solvent you got. i then use pipe cleaners and sometimes i flathead screwdriver for areas where its caked on. there is a little passage that connects into the idle adjustment screw port. make sure it it clear and clean. clean the rest of the throttle body while you have it off

reinstall set base idle again and then use a small amount of rtv gasket maker on the outside of the idle screw to make sure it stays there. if you ever need to do this again the rtf can be easily removed with pliers or by scraping it off

 

Hey guys thanks for all the info. It is a 4 cylinder. As far as how I have adjusted the Idle.

1 removed the plug from the IAC.
2 started the car and ran the rpms up to 1000 and let off till it went to idle.
3 back out the idle screw till the rpm reach about 700 rpm. (I can only get about 500)
4 turn off car and remove the 7.5 back up fuse.
5 plug the IAC back up and restart car.

I can only get 500 rpm when I turn on the ac it stays right at 500.

I did remove the idle screw all the way and it did not move above 500. I will remove the throttle body and clean this week end and see what happens.

 

I have a feeling your going to find a good bit of carbon and crap in general built up around the backside of the throttle body and into the intake manifold.

If you removed the idle adjustment screw completely and still had no change in idle only one of two things is possible.

It's either, you're car uses something other than oxygen to achieve combustion (thats a joke, haha).
Or the port the idle screw allows air though is completely plugged up.
A good cleaning should do the trick.
Good luck

 

Well Guys I removed the throttle body and while I was at it I removed the IAC and clean last week. There was a lot of carbon build up in all the holes. I was able to get the idle up to 800. If I back the screw out all the way still the best I can get it 800. Is there still something clogged? Something is still not right now when I turn the AC on it drop below 500 and the car starts shaking really bad. I checked the vacuum lines they look good. I am not popping any codes. The car runs and drives great it is just at Idle. I had a 95 EX that did the same thing but I just lived with it. That one had over 330,000 on it and I just did not want to invest in the time this one is newer and in great shape for the year with only 165,000 on it.
Is there anything else it could be??

 

IACV electrically bad? Check it per the link above.

23.5 Two Wire IAC Valve

The 2-wire IAC valve is supplied battery voltage on one side of its winding and the ECM supplies an electronically simulated ground on the other side, as shown in Illustration 23-1.



The ECM controls the current in the IAC valve winding by controlling the amount of time the ground is supplied to the IAC valve. The amount of current that flows through the IAC valve windings control how strong the magnetic force is that opens the plunger against spring tension.

23.5.2 To Cause the IAC Valve to Fully Open

If you want to test the IAC valve to make sure it will fully open, you can temporarily ground the wire that goes from the IAC valve to the ECM. One wire will read steady battery voltage, and one will have varying volts. The varying volts wire is the one you should ground. When you ground this wire, the idle should increase significantly.

You can also test the 2-wire IAC valve winding with an ohmmeter. Make sure there is no continuity between the winding and the case. Check for approximately 11.5 ohms on the winding itself.

 

I will give it a shot.