It has a closed ended wing nut type thing holdin it down that I haven't been able to get to unscrew (I even used a mallet to try and break it loose which resulted in it bending so I had to bang it straight). This predicament is delaying the proper installation of my sub amp and my dynamat. HELP PLEASE!! Lol

P.s. I looked through my chilton and it doesn't say anything bout removing the spare

 

is it rusted? or just stuck?

 

You know, they do make other tools besides hammers...

You could also try heating it with a torch or just cut it off.

 

1. No Its not rusted 2. I dont have a torch or a tool to cut it off 3. I'm not sure if its stuck cuz I don't know how its supposed to come off. I thought it screwed on but I'm kinda thinkin that's not the way since it doesn't show any signs of twisting

 

It's a twist off, just like anything else it's threaded. Try some WD40 first, let it soak/penetrate the threads and try again.

 

lol you took a hammer to the thing? just take it easy..soak it in something like WD40 or Liquid Wrench (its great for things like this), tap on it with a hammer to loosen the rust, then grab a towel and try to hand twist it off.

 

WD40

 

That new Chip Foose WD40 is the high performance lube yo.. Be sure and use it on the muffler bearings too broski...


In all seriousness, if you cant figure this out then please go see someone more qualified for this task.. On a scale of 1-10 with 10 being the most difficult, the task at hand here is about a -3.

 

.

 

Couldn't be more true.

 

PB Blaster

 

Kroil.

 

Channel locks are your friend. And a torch may be necessary too, just heat the nut and not the rim.

 

WD40 will be answer to this problem. Or at least something similar.

 

No, penetrating oil... This has just turned into a "repeater" thread.

 

No, penetrating oil... This has just turned into a "repeater" thread.

 

No, penetrating oil... This has just turned into a "repeater" thread.






:p

 

Couldn't be more true.... except, apparently your knowledge is limited on issues with some Hondas where the bolt has rusted. It can be in fact a huge pain to get the tire out.
We just got done replacing the catalytic converter and a front headlight on a 2007 Honda Accord my friend just bought.
After that my friend was trying to level the board/carpet in his trunk covering his Spare Tire.
We went to take the tire out to see if any garbage was under it and realized the bolt that held the tire was locked and wouldn't turn. We used water pump pliers to turn the top plastic spin off nut off, unfortunately the whole bolt broke free and was spinning but would not allow the bolt to turn out.
Apparently there was some corrosion on the bolt and nut that was barely spot welded to the frame.
We had to spend a few minutes breaking the plastic apart just to get the tire out. Luckily we are mechanicals inclined, otherwise taking the tire out would have been a 8.
It's a good thing we found this issue rather than when he had basic tire changing tools and had no ability to get the tire out.
Why would Honda use anything but a stainless in a spot where rust can occur and you need access to a part in an emergency.

 

LOL, strong first post.

 

Laughing my *** off! I am prolly a 7 on the scale of being able to do repairs. Like a solid C+. Seriously, if you cant figure how to get the spare tire out....emmm I would just take some channel locks and screw the wing nut until it snaps off the top and pull the tire out. After that, you can figure your next action with the tire removed and more room to work. Im talkin 88-91 CRX just so I dont get flamed for being wrong.