... and I don't know crap about these motors!

I have pics but as a noob the site will not let me post them.

91 CRX si

Wiring looks clean--- install looks clean.

Guy I got it from has been driving it year-round like this for about 3 years.

!. Runs like it's on 3 cylinders until it warms up (after 10 mins. runs good but slow.)
2. Is there some way other than seat of the pants to see if vtech is operating properly?
3.Maybe my expectations are too high but it seems kinda like a pooch...

Gonna do a compression test and clean the REALLY dirty air filter as soon as I post this.

 

Moved to CR-X/EF forum.

 

For the idle, clean the iac first, if its still high you can adjust it using the idle adjust screw, theres a guid on how to do it in the faq page.

As for the vtec is the car at operating temperature amd dosent engage?
Do you have the right ecu and is the wiring to the vtec soleniod hookedup?

 

Thanks for the quick response and ideas!!

 

OK.... Update...
Pulled plugs-- compression is 210 straight across
Burning even across all 4.

Plugs are gapped at .058 !?!
Is almost .060 right?

Got air filter soaking in soapy water right now....

 

Why?!?

It's a B16 vtec MOTOR.

 

any CELs, what ecu ? did the car get warm ? is the oil clean and do you have enough ?

 

THANKS!

 

Does your speedometer work?
Oil pressure sensor connected.?
The vtec solenoid is a one wire plug usually right next to the dizzy.
Check the wiring going to the solenoid to the ecu for breaks and the pressure sensor.

 

OK. Cleaned air filter and regapped plugs to .044. RUNS GOOD NOW. Pulls hard to 7500rpm but don't really notice the vtec kick in?!? It does pull ever so slightly harder around 5000rpm but not the kick in the pants I had heard about. 1st gear is useless though.

 

try it with a short ram intake system. it would be a slighter noise pick up where ever the Vtec engagement is set on that P28 ecu.

Personal experience: I can definitely "feel" the vtec engagement with a leaky exhaust system on my B16. feel and hearing of the vtec was pretty awesome but the MPG wasnt up to par with the previous engine. So you can lose some and gain some.

 

Ok keep guessing and trying useless things.
Gap your plugs tighter your probably blowing out the sspark with the vtak

 

You should never really feel vtec "kick" if you do you're loosing power before the vtec engagement point. It should be a smooth crossover between the two cam profiles. Also if it doesn't engage it will just fall flat on it's face around 6 grand.

Btw, is that P28 chipped and tuned? B16A redlines at 8200 RPM. 7500 RPM is about what a D16Z6 (the engine the P28 actually goes with) redlines at (actually 7200, but Honda factory tachs are normally wildly inaccurate)

 

Your last few sentences are really a huge help! That would explain the 7300rpm cut. I bought this to DD as a winter beater but I'd like to get it running the best it can.
THANKS!

Can you suggest a computer to replace the P28???

Ps. I think the high idle is a completely different issue and I'm gonna do as suggested and look up the sequence to setting the idle.

 

I think I must be low on vtak fluid...Where's the dipstick?

 

Np.

OBD1 PR3 or P30. You could also socket the P28 and then chip it with a P30 basemap and get it tuned (more money, but if you get a good tuner you can probably make a little more power. Running it on a stock P28 the air fuel ratio is going to be off, it will run rich or lean at times. Get a proper ECU as soon as you can.

 

Okay.... Thanks again for great insight and much help!

 

Quick happy ending....Replaced the smashed 4-1 header with a 4-2-1 that really hugs the oil pan and also replaced the thermostat while I had the radiator out (not much room in a CRX for a B16 header) lol

After bolting everything back up and refilling the coolant system.... lo and behold the thing idles @800 rpm, temp gauge works--- heat works, and the motor easily spins RIGHT OFF THE END OF THE stock 8000rpm tach!

It pulls hard (no traction in 1st) and I'm on to my next issue---- the grind going into 3rd gear...