I did many searches but haven't come up with the answer for my 2000 Integra Type R RTA bushings.

From my search I found information that says that 52385-S21-003 is cheaper and is the same part as 52385-SR3-000 and that both are 3.170" in diameter.
Can anyone confirm this?

I bought 52385-S21-003 because it was cheaper but when i tried to press it in with the bushing press, the bushing did not fit into the trailing arm. I don't have a digital caliper to measure my old bushing, but it was as if the new bushing was a tiny bit too big. Visually, it looks like the new bushing is a tiny bit bigger in diameter. I ended up pressing my old bushings back in for now.

I don't want to waste more time and money on the wrong parts.
Does anyone have a part number for the RTA bushing they personally installed on their ITR RTA?

 

the itr rear trailing bushing is 80mm. ctr and others are 85mm

 

52385-sr3-003
for CRV exactly the same and almost half the price

 

Thanks for the info!
I'll order a set of 52385-sr3-003 and give it a try.

 

There are 3 part numbers that fit Integras.

Civic/Integra from 2000: 52385-sr3-000
CRV from 2000: 52385-sr3-003
Revised Civic/Integra from 2002: 52385-S21-003 https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...BHFzgGAK7oCnoA

The TSB's go back & forth recommending which part. The 2006 version started recommending the original part number again for some reason. https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...PbDUwHBHXyc77A So who really knows which one is better? Nobody.

Personally I would stick with the ones you've got and sand the outside till they work.

 

I would too, but I'd rather have a pair of bushings that will pop right in. If the next set of bushings don't go in easy, I may resort to sanding.

I was able to take a rough measurement of the 52385-S21-003 bushings. They are about 80mm. But I think the factory was a little heavy on the paint and the collar doesn't look perfectly round either. :-/

I ordered the 52385-sr3-003 hoping that they are a little bit more within tolerances. I also ordered a Mitutoyo 500-196-20 digital caliper so I can take measurements of the old bushing and the new bushing. At least I'll be able to tell if there are any high spots that need to be sanded down.

 

This is good information. I need to do this soon as well.

Are there any advantages to the hard Race or Mugen RTA bushings? Stinkycheezmonky told me to steer clear of the urethane RTA bushings.

 

Yeah, the urethane is REALLY bad news for the RTA. The way the arm rolls as camber is gained causes binding over bumps and can kick the back end out unexpectedly.

Hard rubber is an option and will stiffen things, but nobody knows if they last as long as OEM. These OEM pieces seem to be equally as hard as Mugen's part, so they are probably already upgrades from stock. May not want to waste too much money on aftermarket.

If I went aftermarket, I would probably just consider the PCI spherical trailing arm bushings. They are rebuildable and offset to correct a little bump-steer from being lowered. Plus they are bolt on so you don't have to buy the press tool. Also, since they rotate freely, you don't have to worry about clocking them on lowered cars like you do with rubber bushings (most important part of a rubber bushing install). They do cost a bit more at $275 though...

 

Stinky is right about that. I learned when I switched all my bushings to Mugen replacements that the RTA bushing in the Mugen set is the exact same as the original from Honda. From further research I discovered that in Mugen's testing this is the one bushing that was deemed "no need to change" reason being is the movement that was inherently in the OG RTA bushing was ideal. It didnt need to be strengthened or lessened.

 

I have the mugen's on my car but they look exactly like oem and feel same by hand, I wouldnt recommend the OEM bushing put in a mugen box and sold for x3 the amount

just go with 52385-sr3-003
dealer net is $20.28
52385-sr3-000
dealer net $37.61

 

i've been using the Hardrace ones for the past 2 years so far and no issues.

suspension was clocked and alignments hold quite well with the Hardrace rubber bushings so far.

i also decided to stay away from Urethane bushings since i'm Vancouver and the weather may not be best for them. so far, the Hardrace bushings are holding up great (daily driving and lapping days).

i'll keep you posted if anything ever happens

 

I attempted to install the PIC/Suja RTA bushings tonight. They are 81.5 mm (3.21") in diameter. :/

Needless to say, they would not press in. My car is in pieces. I'm just going to get the 52385-SR3-003 bushings from the local dealer.

 

damn Ive never sseen this many issues with different bushings, but speaking on the subject I just got a set of the oem ones for 01-0286

 

There's a lot of talk on how the poly RTA's won't allow proper movement. Well the only thing I could see it making harder to change is toe. If you read about race car setups in fact we would want less toe change, hence the reason for adjustable toe links making them longer for less change and shorter for more change. I can tell you more toe change makes for a scary/twitchy setup.

Now the ITR rear LCA and strut setup is specifically designed to help with the toe curve. I would assume the change makes our cars more gradual/linear in the curve for more predictability? Regardless you cannot go wrong with spherical, unless you tend to daily your car more and like replacing expensive bushings a lot more frequently.

 

Because a poly bushing is a single axis friction bearing, it won't allow all the movement necessary. As the trailing arm tries to roll into camber and yaw into toe (both necessary movements of properly functioning suspension geometry) the bushing material resists. This can cause binding. When you get binding, eventually something has got to give. Typically it's the bushing. After a couple years your left with something like what we see below. A rubber bushing is capable of moving like a spherical bearing and won't bind under all the normal suspension movement. This is why they are so highly recommended over poly. We use harder rubber compounds to reduce the amount of deflection under load. Not to alter the suspension geometry. Don't get the two confused.

I would say Rubber or Spherical in the suspension, and that is all.

TL Motor Mount:


Integra Compensator Arm:


4-yr old Integra shift linkage bushing:

 

I have about 24,000 miles so far using Energy Suspension bushings and they still look great and perform great! I inspect everything on my cars every 5,000 miles which is when I do oil changes. The only polyurethane part I've had fail over the years is a HASPORT motor mount which cracked.

 

The 52385-SR3-003 RTA bushings pressed into my GSR just fine with the Schley tool. Dimensionally they seemed to be exactly the same as the original bushings. I clocked them at about 6° due to the slight drop.

 

Thanks for the update Dogginator. I planned on using these cheaper "003" CRV bushings on my stock CRX, so it's good news they worked out. At almost half the price of the "000" bushing, you can't go wrong.

If someone works at a Honda dealer, it would great if we could get a side by side for any discernible differences!

52385-SR3-000 (civic/Integra)
52385-SR3-003 (CRV)

 

I work at a dealer and we stock both I will take a pic tomorrow and post it up

 

Lets see if one is stiffer than the other as well.

 

I have hardrace ones on mine I love them they press in hard oem style but rubber is harder and it works great for me you can check my threads on my 98 ITR as i have posted pictures and info there.

 

OK HERE WE GO

52385-S21-003 80.04mm $40.15

52385-SR3-000 80.15mm $62.85

52385-SR3-003 80.35mm $33.80 (CRV)

the S21 is a hell of a lot cheaper and it will probably go in a lot smoother

 

The 52385-SR3-003 pressed in just fine with the Schley tool. Some of that diameter difference is paint.

I had issue with PIC/Suja 1 RTA bushings that did not have paint and measured 81.76 mm. Those would not press in and the cup from the Schley tool actually popped inside of the bushing.

Regarding the OEM bushings, was there any apparent difference in stiffness, etc?

 

The rubber, man! What about the rubber?

 

They all seemed the same to me and some techs I had them test them by holding the round part and moving the bushing with there thumbs