Hello. Needing to replace the oil pan on my 96 with the F22B2 engine and manual transmission and ran into a few problems. I followed the Hayne's manual and it just said to remove the center beam, which was easy enough, but it didn't mention the cover plate that goes over the bottom of the transmission nor the section of exhaust pipe that goes from the manifold to the catalytic converter. After I ran into these issues, the oil pan was already completely unbolted so it was very aggravating. I carefully removed the three screws on the plate on the transmission but could not get the exhaust pipe undone. What is the secret and is there anything special I need to know about removing and reinstalling it? I don't like messing with stuff that I don't know anything about. And the odd thing is, the current oil pan had no gasket on it when I removed it but was not leaking at the mating surface. It's also missing one of the 10mm bolts securing it. Anyone know where I can get a new one? Thanks.

 

i have never taken the exhaust pipe off to remove the oil pan or replace it on 90-97 accords. usually i took the center beam then the flywheel cover off and sometimes if it was an auto that extra little cover over the shifter cable.

as far as missing bolt, you can buy bolts at hardware stores, some auto parts stores or the honda dealer....

 

That's very odd. I played with the pan for 20 minutes trying to wiggle it out but it just hits the section of the exhaust pipe below it. The picture in the Hayne's manual doesn't even show the pipe, but then again I hear a lot of people say it's notorious for leaving information out. I'm sort of at a loss of what to do seeing as the bolts are pretty seized into place on the pipe.

 

Your only way now is to remove the two catalytic bolts w/ springs, so you can completely remove the downpipe out of the way.

 

you can unplug the 02 sensor, remove the three header to down pipe nuts, two nuts holding the pipe to the block, and the rubber exhaust pipe holder around the catalytic converter and the mid pipe so that you can lower the pipe and rest it on a block of wood or cinder block for more clearance

 

All the nuts on the down pipe are so seized into place though. They don't budge. It's too confined of an area to use a cheater bar on the wrench. Tips? Anything special I need to know when reinstalling it?

 

This:

http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&hl...1t:429,r:3,s:0

 

long extension with 6 point socket and a cheater will work. its a hassle but without an impact gun its your only choice.

 

I have a 94 accord lx that needs a new oil pan gasket, does anyone know for sure whether the exhaust downpipe needs to be removed? Just planning ahead.

H

 

okay so I got everything off and when reinstalling everything, one of the bolts on the downpipe that connects to the manifold is stripped and doesn't tighten. what are my options?

 

I'm not too familiar with the years and their engines, but for mine with the F22B2 engine I had to remove the downpipe.

 

Is it safe to drive with just two of the three bolts on the exhaust pipe that connects to the manifold or will it cause issues? They both torqued up just fine and are nice and snug.

 

you will have an exhaust leak. may throw your o2 sensor off. if its just the nut get another nut at an auto parts store. if its the the stud and the nut fix it right the first time. buy three studs and nuts. remove the header. remove the old studs with some vise grips. install new studs. i would advise using some loctite so they stay in there. use the new nuts and dont worry about possibly stripping another.

if you have a hard time installing/tightening them. use some liquid wrench or rust remover to clean the holes the studs install into. make sure to throughly rinse out the whatever you use to clean the area and allow it to thoroughly dry before installing/using loctite on the new studs. make a notch en each of them will i hack saw or dremel or whatever you got so that you can use a flathead screwdriver to screw them in.

 

What if the hole on the exhaust manifold the bolt goes in to is stripped also?

 

in that case you will need to have the hole drilled out and threaded to a different size or if your lucky you may be able to rethread it. of course you could replace the exhaust manifold.

replacement manifolds areplentiful. whether it be stock or aftermarket. ebay has some cheap options

 

sigh, thank you very much. this simple repair is turning out to be more expensive than expected.

 

dont feel too bad there are plenty of other things that could have gone way worse. thats just how it is with a car. when replacing things a lot of the time you find other things that need replacing.

always attack any project knowing this

 

One more thing, you've been a huge help, is replacing the manifold (probably easiest) to stop the exhaust leak something urgent? I don't quite know the repercussions of a small exhaust leak are.

 

You might run into odd things....one already brought up, with a leak the O2's (I see you are OBDII) might set codes...or try to run rich.....which is bad for gas milage and the cat.

Which of the three are striped, are you lucky enough to run a long bolt down from the top (if there is room) and then a nut up from the bottom.....if not, as stated get a new or used manifold and call it a day.

 

Hate to revive this but I'm having a nasty time finding a replacement manifold. Everywhere I've been sells the same kind of manifold but it's not the one for my car. Everywhere locally (Pepboys, Autozone, O'Reilly's, Napa) sells the Dorman brand that looks like this:



Everything in their computers say it will fit my car but it actually does not. The current one on the car actually looks more like this, however all online references say it doesn't fit my vehicle:



Even the few used exhaust manifolds online I've found look like the first picture. I don't quite understand why it doesn't fit my car unless whatever is currently on there has been changed, but judging by how rusted it is and how I stripped it, I'm assuming it's original. Any ideas?

 

The lower header picture is the correct one for the F22B2, single, not double exit.

I just replaced the oil pan on my 94 and I recall I had one of the top manifold-to-downtube bolts spin freely(the other two nuts were rusted in place), but all I had to do was put a wrench on the bottom nut to keep it from spinning and it tightened right up. If for some reason that is not your situation, just get a grade-8 nut and longer bolt from the hardware store and use those. This might sound dumb, but did the nut fall off somewhere?

Also, it would be a good idea to use some blue loctite on the header bolts, as well as the cross brace bolts below the oil pan.

Hope this helps, gotta keep these 5th gens alive...

 

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...3sv401_e04.png

Looks like it is actually a stud with a nut from the lower side, I could have sworn mine had a nut up top?? Anyway, if you did strip a stud out, a bolt/nut should work for you and be much cheaper than a whole manifold. Remember to get a new doughnut gasket also.

 

agreed. the factory connection is a stud with nut from the bottom. just replace/fix it. a new manifold is more work and more expensive.

btw, i dont see a replacement manifold for the f22b2 in the dorman catalog. or on the autozone or advanced auto websites...

 

Have you checked junk yards? Thousand of them here.

 

The one that stripped would be the 'bottom right' in the picture so I can't run anything from the top to secure it. The stud just spins in place when trying to install it. I tried a new stud and nut and got the same results.

It hasn't set off any codes yet and nothing is acting quirky so I'm thinking about just not worrying about it. Thank you for all the suggestions!