Just got done welding in my S&W roll bar, just wanted to show you what it looks like. Now just need to decide what color I want to paint it hmm..

 

Looks like the rear x is crooked, and your weld has quite abit of porosity.

 

Welds don't look good, should have dialed your settings on some scrap and taken more time.

 

Rear X definitely not straight.

 

Is that flux core welding wire? Them welds don't look very strong.. not trying to cut u down but maybe u should have practiced some more before welding something like this.. cages are a pain in the *** to weld

 

What did you use to weld that thing?

 

Don't listen to these guys. Clean up the welds and take some more pictures. The welds look like stacks of dimes. They are just covered in slag. Did you use floor plates?

 

You sure your looking at the same pics we are.. u have to look at it from a safety stand point. Say he gets hit and one of them welds crack. Think of what could happen

 

I am doubting those welds are going to break. I am just looking at the measurements, the X is off by quite a bit, the lower cross bar on the front has a good bend to it, I give OP props for doing this himself just think he should have slowed down a little bit to make the final product a little better.

 

Not much u can do about the bend in the rocker bar.. how else was he to do that part

 

The bend in the rocker bar was needed to have it fit over the tunnel piece whatever its called. I know the welds are definately solid, i took my time on them. I think they look pretty good, wasnt exactly making them for a show car. But yeah the measurement on the xbar is a tad off on one of the beams, but structurally it shouldnt make a difference. And yeah I did use floor plates. I did practice quite a bit before doing the welds. Maybe someone could show me a picture of what a good mig weld should look like

 

http://www.profabricationtechniques....elding-tubing/

 

those look pretty nice. I had a similar technique and I did most of the things he recommended with regard to heat and what not. Seems like I just went a bit faster in regards to the swirl zig zag motion and applied a little bit more weld than him.

 

Everything looks really dirty in those pictures, or is it just me?? I don't see any grinding or sanding marks on any plates or tube, which would explain the excessive splatter and porosity in the contaminated welds...unless you used flux, in which case it still doesn't look like good prep work. The rear x does look uneven as well.
I would practice more on your welding before attempting something like this. The welds to the floor plate don't look good at all in that picture. I can't imagine that weld having good penetration. It looks like you went too fast with not the right voltage/wire speed.

Edit: this sounds like I'm being a dick, but I'm not trying to. If you don't know what's wrong how can you improve?

 

It does look kindof dirty but I did prep everything. I feel liek the penetration was good, I used the highest voltage setting and while I was welding I watched the tubing melt and fuse to the plate, but I guess im not an expert. I looked at a different thread, and although its kindof hard to see the weld, I dont think mine look any worse

https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/pics-my-roll-cage-we-just-put-493472/

Anyways, I painted it this weekend, heres a pic.

 

the x in the back should have gone to the main hoop and to the floor plates in the trunk. the way it is now, it isn't going to offer any significant structural support in a crash because they are only welded to the down bars.

also, the d-bars in your main hoop should have gone to the tunnel in the middle. i believe that is how nhra rules spec it.

looks alright for a first effort though!

 

Yea the x going to the main hoop would have been probably stronger, but the tubing for the x was definately not long enough for that. For the main hoop braces, they say that front wheel drive cars have to have them connected to the cross brace in the instructions (http://swracecars.com/Files/RBRCinstructions2011.pdf).

 

i am far from a professional, but work with many, i can tell you that even though it stuck, and got hot on both the bar and metal, doesn't mean you got the proper penetration...I def give you props for doing this on your own, but you have a ways to go. depending on the track, since many tracks safety inspections are a joke, those welds would not pass. regardless of bar location, the welds need to be safe and secure, which yours don't appear to be based on that 4th picture, there are very noticable holes in the weld. you moved way too fast and didn't give a chance for the pool to keep up. that voltage + lower wire speed + slower, more consistant travel would = a much better weld, and more likelyhood of passing a true NHRA spec

 

^^^^^That kinda answered my question: would that even pass safety inspection at the track?

 

There are absolutely no holes in any of the welds. I went very slow when doing the weld in order for it to penetrate well. I will take more pictures. The "holes" you see are just shadows from some of the little splatter *****- my lamp is at the base of the tube. If you zoom in really close its easier to tell- I wouldnt be ok with a weld if it had any holes trust me.

 

Dude that last weld you posted you can clearly see the pin holes. That is not spatter. Porosity isn't something that just floats to the surface either, there might be a lot more under the surface that you can't see. I think you did a good job on your first cage. But if you stuck this together with a 110v flux core welder than mediocre welds is the end result. Next time upgrade your equipment to something that is suitable for doing this kind of work. I'm def. not trying to bash you but the welding is something you need to improve on.

 

Ok well thanks for the input, I just dont see the pinholes that you are referring to. I used a lincoln electric mig welder to do this.

 

Get a bottle of mix gas and use it from now on. Flux core has it's place in Welding but def. not in Automotive work with such a small Welder. You technique doesn't look bad at all, you probably just trapped some slag going downhill. You will see a huge improvement in your Welding by ditching the Flux

 

Ok thanks, Ill try that next time.

 

somebody hold me, im scared