Was wondering the easiest way to make an oil pan tap.

 

braze or weld a bung to the oil pan.

 

Alright thanks man.

 

I wanted to make a thread for this but from what I know the oil should flow downward into the pan so face the tap upward and as high on the pan and as straight inline with the turbo drain

how does this one look? I want to do mine similar on the P30 oil pan but with a slight angle



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

that's fine, the whole trick to doing these is getting the metal clean enough to weld without leaking. the pan needs to be cleaned, then sanded, then cleaned again on both sides. then tig weld your bung in place.

i would not advise mig'ing it as the chance for a pinhole is just that much higher

 

Or bolt on a turbo drain flange

 

I will probably do mine just like that but over a lil bit. the guy has a welding shop so it should come out good but how much I dont know.

 

if you bring it in clean and ready to go probably the minimum charge, around here that's $20

plan b is selling that pan and buying a moroso for the superior oil control. they have a welded in plate that hugs the pickup. much better design than the half baffle of the p72 pan

 

^ ugh dont tempt me! how much can I find one for?

 

bought mine here, fits great, dosnt hang low & no leaks!

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-49/moroso-oil-pans-%24129-free-shipping-perfect-turbo-applications-1848964/

 

using a step drill helps make the hole perfectly sized

 

i also bought my moroso from the deal posted above. it's a perfect fit, basically what you would expect from a company that takes oil pans very seriously

 

If you know what you're doing migging is fine lol

 

I do suggest too get it as high as possible. I tig welded mine from the in the inside and the fitting is up against the lip in between two of the oil pan bolts.

 

i mig welded mine from both sides and its mint, but i have been welding for a very long time, just be careful not to have your settings too high so u dont blow a big hole in your pan. and let the first side cool before u weld the other side. and try to get it as high as possible and between 2 pan bolts so its not in your way when u want to remove the pan.

 

A few years ago i mig welded mine, cleaned the **** out of the pan, grinded it all down had a good clean surface, had a perfect ground welded it up and it leaked like a siv. idk why but couoldnt get it to seal up. it was pretty strange actually. steel pan and fitting too.

 

the one on the car doesnt leak a drop but its for the b20 block and sits lower my pick up wont be optimal with it.

its good i read about between the bolts haha that would suck if i messed that up!

I see a lot of people just use some rad hose or rubber hose and those type fittings thats pretty simple but i got the braided line to use.

heres my line now, just need to tap the p30 pan and im looking at a straight flow fitting on the turbo drain

 

If you MIG it, you need to learn how to "weave" properly... TIG is a better option and takes less skill, especially if you don't use the pedal. Flame all you want but I have been doing this for decades. If you make a mistake with TIG you can just go back over it and fix it. If you want a real challenge then use 1/16" SMAW rod. Regardless, the Mororso pan is a good alternative just stay away from aftermarket gaskets, especially the FelPro blue one. It's actually called the "FelPro blew one"... You can torque it, barely even tighten it, load it up with RTV, whatever you want they still leak or blow out with a Moroso pan (at least with mine anyways). Nothing worse than going down the track and being flagged for an oil pan. An OEM gasket is only around $25 anyways.

 

mig welding and oil soaked in the metal. migs pop a LOT more than a tig. with a tig you can control the flame and get a perfect bead going. migs just pop and pinhole. one problem people often make with the clean up is not cleaning the pan with an aggressive chem like brake clean before they ever sand and grind. if you don't you're just sanding oily material into the metal. using a tig is the other thing, just a much better type of welding for precision work

also agree with the post above me 100%

the fel pro pan gaskets leak...i have no idea why, just do, and the SOB's cost just as much as oe honda

 

That fitting in the picture is way too low. The oil needs to return in to air not the oil.

 

^ that, and its got two 45 angles at the top of the drain and a flat spot near the pan. im trying to make it as good as possible possibly put the one blue 45 at the pan tap and a straight -10an fitting at the top drain.

 

ive been a welder fabricator for some 12 years and watching someone try to tig something with no experience is pretty comical, if u are using a cheap mig with no gas it will leak if u use a mig with flux core wire it will work but u need to know what your doing with that messy bead, if u use .35 or better yet .23 wire with a co2 and argon mix and a bit of a weave with low wire speed you'll be mint. honestly it wont cost u more than 20 bucks to have it done by any weld shop. and as far as clean goes if there is any paint dirt oil or anything when u use tig your arc will be all over the place and it will burn through the cleanest spot. tig by far is strongest and best looking when done right. but when it comes to crappy dirty steel mig and flux core rule. lmao i would love to see someone try and stick an oilpan.

BTW the return on the oilpan pictured looks pretty low to me. mine is way closer to the top.

 

I used a good lincoln welder, i know how to mig and weave and litterally after welding that bung i cleaned off a big section of the pan and tried all different wire speeds and temps and every bead I could scrape off with a putty knife. go figure

It was mind blowing really. I ended up getting a moroso pan. I welded my cage with the same welder and it worked just fine so i know it wasnt the welder

 

I've been through 2 Felpro gaskets and they leak, idk wtf is the issue lol. I guess its oem time.

 

[QUOTE=Turbo-LS;46801337]I used a good lincoln welder, i know how to mig and weave and litterally after welding that bung i cleaned off a big section of the pan and tried all different wire speeds and temps and every bead I could scrape off with a putty knife. go figure

It was mind blowing really. I ended up getting a moroso pan. I welded my cage with the same welder and it worked just fine so i know it wasnt the welder[/Q

very strange, my stuff is miller but i do have a linoln stick welder and know lots of ppl with lincoln they are a perfectly fine machine. I also stayed with m oem gasket and all my fittings have something on them for sealing, my car doesn't leak a single drop of anything.