Hello all. I'm am currently a new member. So I may be considered a n00b, but only to this forum. I am a Honda/Acura certified Master Technician for a major Honda dealer in the NE region. I would like to offer my knowledge to anyone on any subject. Yes, I do mostly dealership work, however I've been in the Tuner world for many years as well. Whether you have a question about a DTC or a question regarding what engine swaps entailed, I'm here. Thank you all, I hope to have some fun here!!

 

Okay. My steering is loose. Not my steering wheel, but steering. Its like I have power steering. It gets worser the faster I go, and every crack in the road, it seems to follow. I have searched and found that there is an adjustment found on the steering rack itself that can "fix" this loose steering. But they don't specify if its for DA or DC, manual or powered racks. I have looked at my rack (DC4) itself, and I do see a bigger "fitting(40mm)" and a smaller fitting(14mm) dead center of it on the rack. Can I adjust it, or should I look else where?

 

I have an electrical fuse ? posted on the CR-V forum so I won't duplicate it here. Do you know of any sources for electrical schematics for a 2995 CR-V? My post deals w/ parasitic loads for fuse #8 radio/assy & # 18 Fr power socket.
I'd appreciate any assistance or links to explore.
Thanks

 

Sometimes my motor won't crank/turn over at all. Then it will be fine again. HELP me ahah

 

Sounds like your starter is on the way out, mine as well but I keep putting it off to laziness

 

I actually bought one to replace it but the moron sold me the wrong one. Then it started to work normal again so i just left it. I however did notice at times it would turnover really slow.

 

A battery on its way out?? COuld be starter as well.


WHERE IS MY REPLY MASTER TECH!!!!

 

my friends ej1 did the same thing. changed the fuel pump and works perfect everytime. not a pro but worth a try.

 

Randomly my car won't start, then sometimes while driving the car shuts off as far as electrical like radio and cluster where the tach drops to 0 but since the alternator is still turning I assume the car still runs. I checked voltage everywhere, checked grounds, the only thing I could come up with is the ignition switch is going?

 

I just replaced my speed sensor on my 00' civic and my speedo started working fine after that but today the needle started jumping and going crazy and just died, but rpm still works along with gas and temp but not counting miles or have a speed now...? Know anything that can help

 

i have a 93 honda civic ex coupe and recently my heat stop working in my coupe i checked both fuses and the relay which both of them are good..The control panel dont work at all so could it be something with the relay but also nothing is coming out of the vents at all!...can someone please help with my problem idk what esle to do

 

Since masta tech is nowhere to be found, I can try to help.


One problem also that I had. But it would die while I was driving. found out that The key ignition switch was dirty that can lead to your car shutting off. I found a thread on here on how to clean your ignition switch. hope that helps. You can also check the ECU harness as well. Good luck


Seems like it was connected all the way an it is shorting out somewhere. It could also be a bad signal wire. Check the plug for corrosion on the engine harness. SPray some air into that plug and if you can, look at the plug itself. It could have dirty terminals.

Heat don't work, does not blow air?
1. If your heat isn't hot, your low on coolant or need to replace the heater core. PITA....
2. It could just be the blower motor fried. How do you know that your control panel isn't working??.

 

Okay heres a good one.... And seriously, I'm fricking STUMPED, even knowing my way around a honda engine blindfolded:


d17a1 Engine - 2002 Civic LX

Engine misses bad but is drivable, occasionally will lose the misfire and run normal. Power is weak..... Pedal down, slowly accelerates.

ORIGINAL DIAGNOSIS-
Knock problem - Codes read : Cylinder 1/2 Misfire, Knock Sensor Malfunction


Knock sensor purchased, put on, engine knocks.
SECOND DIAGNOSIS-
Cylinder misfire 1/2, no more Knock Sensor malf.
Purchased 2 ignition coils (these are boot coils that are individual w/ no distributor) and replaced Coils 1/2... Also ran the new boots in 3/4 just to make sure all was well, Engine still, knocks.
Purchased new NGK's, left the new coils in 1/2 cylinders, replaced all terrible looking plugs, engine knocks.
THIRD DIAGNOSIS-
Misfire 1/2
Bought new o-rings, Pulled off fuel rail, bled, (opening the gas tank, removing fuel pump fuse, turning car over, would not start, then took off line and bled the rail) Reseated the injectors, after whipping them off, putting new orings on top and bottom, and reseated the fuel rail to 8.9ft# of pressure on the 2 bolts.
Car runs fine. No light - nothing... no missing (main't req light still on - but thats usual)
FOURTH DIAGNOSIS + TEST DRIVE
Test drive 1: Ran great, sputtered a little bit getting warmed up, and putting fuel back into the injectors but, no misfires entire drive.
Test drive 2:
40mph roughly 2.5k RPM... Misfires, kind of sounds like a lack of ignition/fuel. Running at a consistent 40mph problem occurs CEL Blinks but goes away at other speeds.
5-37mph - no missing runs fine. 43-55+ runs fine, no missing..... runs weird at 40
Rapid acceleration test - does fine, 1/5 times it had lag/foot down and slow acceleration
Idle test - runs like ****, 50% of the time, will misfire like the prior instance, or be fine in idle, with no missing/knocking. It chooses when it wants to.

My thoughts.... Since there's no ICU for my car, Camshaft/crankshaft position sensors ... possibly 2 other shitty coils ?


--- note during this I decided to switch the injectors that were missing to two different cylinders... 4 and 2 from 1 and 2
I have not made it back to Autozone to get my ECU read on the misfires, but I'm assuming it's going to be 4/2 and injectors need replaced.

The knocking/misfiring has changed also to a different feeling in the car, I wish I could explain but I really can't. This is why I think it's a fuel problem, Any suggestions ? I tried starting from the head then going to toes, so, anythings appreciated.

 

I have an 93 civic ex... the past few days i have notice that when i start my car up when it cold it idle at 3 grand but once warm it goes to normal what could be wrong with i have ran out of reason!!! help plz

 

Brand new battery.

 

Fuel pump is not the problem.

 

Yes i posted a ? about my 1992 accord and the balancer belt.

 

WHERE ARE YOU!?!?!? jeebus. opening a "does anyone need help with anything?" thread here is like sending a naked woman into a room full of rapists. I got car problems, i need more money, i cant figure out how to change the fog lights on my damn 06 pilot, my garage door lights arent working AND my ambien doesnt work anymore so im awake at 3:30 am! HELPPPP

 

Where did the OP go?

 

Lol damn master techs if they can't use a scan tool they're just uti graduates

 

There are people all over this site that need help. Why make one thread for it all?

Oh I see now. This thread would allow everyone to bask in OP's knowledge.

 

Looks like wanted to cause chaos. That's sucks cause I needed help.

 

Start a thread?

 

I would if I could. I'm still under the noob restrictions lol

 

I need help with my engine. Doesn't get a spark. I've been searching the threads and I've tried pretty much everything and still no spark. I have a b16a2 with an obd1 ecu and obd1 harness. But here's the kicker. I have an obd2 distributor and a crank sensor down toward the shaft. Here's my question. Does the obd2 distributor need the signal from the crank sensor to give off spark? Cause i was told I didn't need the sensor since it was obd2. Thanks in advance if someone can help.