Hey guys. First post here. Just picked up a race ready 87 CRX w/ carbed engine. I got a killer deal on it as it was sold with a non-running engine, though the culprit may simply be it jumped timing. We were able to get the engine going by pouring gas straight into the carb, but it would only run with the throttle pedal half way down. Only let it run twice for 30 seconds or so.

That was last weekend in Austin, now I'm down in Corpus Christi by myself and am trying to get it running by myself. First problem is the cam pulley doesn't look like either 1st or 2nd gen CRX diagrams. I did find a pic of an Integra cam it resembled. It only has the 2 aligned markings for TDC, but no UP engraved. Took one photo with the crank pulley set at what I'm pretty sure is it's TDC(nothing to line it up with since the plastic belt cover is shredded) and the cam pulley is about 3 teeth off.

Here are the problems I'm having:
I got the spark plug off but couldn't get a screw driver into the hole. I used the dipstick and it didn't seem to push out and in while I rotate the crank like I've read it should. Instead, when the cam markings are TDC, it locks the stick in and I can't pull it out. Completely different than what I've read.

I can't break the crank pulley bolt. I shoved a screw driver in one of the holes and wedged it with the engine and body. Used all my might, even kicked it. Nothing but it slipping once or twice, so I stopped. (I used super strength on my previous Z06 vette oil drain bolt and once it finally broke I tore off my thumb nail, so I stray from doing that again.)

I managed to get a 14mm socket onto the tensioner adjustment bolt by shoving it under the alternator belt. I'm not sure if it works similar to a Chevy LS1/LS6(only engine I've worked extensively on) but either way it wouldn't budge. I started to round the bolt and freaked out and halted that approach.

Damn tricky 200,000 mile Honda engines! Getting pretty frustrating. Any help or advice would be beneficial. Also, please talk to me clearly as this is the first Honda engine I've worked on. I only know all the lingo previously posted because I've studied forum posts and the shop manual page for hours.

Here are some pics of my engine. No idea if it's stock!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/redwuken/6799166073/http://www.flickr.com/photos/redwuken/6799166073/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/redwuken/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/redwuken/6799168161/http://www.flickr.com/photos/redwuken/6799168161/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/redwuken/, on Flickr

With crank pulley at TDC:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/redwuken/6799163799/http://www.flickr.com/photos/redwuken/6799163799/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/redwuken/, on Flickr

Thanks in advance!
Ryan

 

since you don't have a timing belt cover, you will need to set it on TDC by using the mark on the timing belt gear which is on the crankshaft behind the pulley - the mark on the gear lines up with the arrow on the oil pump housing - you will need to remove the pulley in order to see it - if you can get access to an air impact gun, the pulley bolt should come right off - also, since you don't know what cam gear is on it, count the teeth on the cam gear and count the teeth on the timing belt gear on the crank and make sure that the cam gear has exactly twice the number of teeth on the crank gear

this is the mark on the timing belt gear:



this is what the oil pump housing looks like: (arrow in red)

 

Also, just so you know this is the '88-91 Forum. You will get better/more knowledgable help in the appropriate forum below...

https://honda-tech.com/forums/classic-hondas-106/

Also, I can assure you these engines aren't "tricky" in the slightest. You will come to find out a lot of us on here are "Old School" and newer Domestic guys as well. Most of the time a little old thing called an Impact Gun does the trick. There are specialty tools to hold the crankshaft pulley in place while you try to remove the bolt. I am a big guy and have yet to find one I couldn't easily do; so bulk up. Regardless, for the tensioner be sure you use a socket that doesn't have a tapered opening at the end. The tensioner bolts are extremely easy to round off if the socket isn't on all the way. It just sounds to me you either need a longer breaker bar/cheater or an impact.

 

I have the same engine and was wondering how you timed the camshaft to the crank? If I line the lines up level with the head it doesn't run well at all. If I take the cam and rotate the front line down below the head and the rear line above. It runs pretty well and timing light shows I'm almost dead on for the timing light mark. Hopefully you can help, thank you in advance!

​​​​​​Damien