i was wondering if pic/omni/skunk2 makes coilovers for the 94-01 integra type r
i have a civic with type r f7 control arms and need the rear pillow ball mounts. i am currently running gc/koni but was wondering if their is another good brand with higher spring rates i can run under $800-700
ive had skunk2 and omni drag and liked them alot

 

Why don't you just order new springs from Ground control? You'd save a lot of damn money.

I accept paypal for savings accrued.

 

yeah but id have to get the koni's revalved if i get hard spring rates. I dont think the kono yellow off the shelf can handle high spring rates im thinking about going up to. right now im riding on the softer rates and its fine but i want something a bit harder since im so used to it

srry im typing from my small netbook

 

Why would you have to revalve the konis? What spring rates are we talking about?

OTS koni yellows are valved to handle ~550-600lb spring rates. They will handle more than that, they just won't be optimally valved.

If you're going higher than that your cheapest route would still be to have the revalved and order new springs from Ground Control. That or buy an AMR setup or a Progress CS-I setup. Each will be custom made to your rates/application.

 

well i have the springs and installed them and the koni's do not like them. they do not dampen at all. hit a bump and bounce bounce.

 

What rates do you have. Ride height? None of what you've told me is clear. Bounce means nothing without context.

 

What rates are to running?

My friend ran 600/700 on his OTS sports and it was "okay", he wasn't slammed, but, it didn't have a bit of a bounch on when hitting bumps.

Shocks where turned almost all the way up.

 

500lbs front 550lbs REAR def not slammed

 

and i dont mean bounce like bumpy i mean up and down nonstop. almost makes the car uncontrollable if im turning and his a bump

 

Dude, Koni sports can handle those spring rates.


I just noitced, you think they may be blown?


Yea, his wasn't hoping all over the road. It will hit the bump, bounce, up down real quick and that was it.
Stiffer then **** though.

 

Koni's can handle those no problem. They might be blown. If you aren't lowered excessively and you're the original purchaser, koni will replace them. Or you can have them rebuilt and re valved for ~$300-400.

Even if koni would replace them, I'd probably revalve them anyway.

 

they are def. not blown since im riding on them right now. and it rides fine. i guess its just these retarded mi roads. **** michigan. cant even make a ****ing godamn road level. they can hire a ****ing kid to make the roads better. i mean there are literally like groves in the middle where it steers your car away. ****ing retarded
rant off

 

If your roads are really bad, there is nothing out there that is that stiff that will remotely be comfortable.

My roads are "alright" and I'm sure on bad roads I'd be miserable with my 350lb/350lb rates. I can't imagine 500lb rear rates on bad roads.

 

Our roads are horrid. My 350's really **** me off some times.

 

Just to throw this out there: The ITR doesn't have a "pillowball" mount; "pillowball" meaning spherical bearing. It's a rear eye-let mount and PIC does offer them for ITR application. I had them on my EG.

 

just wondering, did you make sure you clocked all your bushings? no binding?

 

does not commute
and yeah i said pillowball because thats what jumped in my head i didnt know what they were called.
ill be getting some pics soon then. and im not going to daily the car on the new coilovers they are just going to be setup for the track the i can take them off

 

just like the second part of the broken sentence, are you sure you don't have any binding?

like did you make sure that all your bolts were lose on the lca, put the weight of the car on it, and then torque the bolts to spec?

i say that because it's happened to me before. not as bad as you say yours is, but i did get a pogo effect. i loosen my rear sway bar endlink bolts, rear upper control arm bolts, and the bolt that goes through the lca that connects to the shock. put some jack stands under the lca's, then put the full weight of the car on jack stands. when the car settled, i torqued all the lose bolts to spec.

all of this means, clocking your bushings.