Anyone Know Who Sells H-Series 2.7 liter or 2.6 liter Stroker Kits ...??? Try'd Google But No Luck Just Shows People's Set up's ...

 

gotta get a custom 106mm crank

 

You wont find a kit for something like that because it's not a simple build and the components cant really be made to a one size fits all type of application. There are way too many variables involved with construction of the assembly alone (intended use, type of fuel, 2 or 3 ring set up, aluminum or steel rod, rod length, required block profiling for the type of rod selected, pin diameter and compression height [ties into ring pack selection], etc) not to mention the detail that goes into the actual block set up/modifications and proper assembly of a motor like that. It's not something you can really put out on the market as a shelf stock type of kit. There's nothing cookie cutter about a set up of that kind.

 

you can try contacting these guys: https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/h27-h22-92mm-bore-100mm-stroke-315whp-236wtq-dynojet-267whp-201wtq-mustang-dyno-1376406/

if they are still in business....but i tried contacting them many years ago for something else and i found it difficult to get a hold of them so i went else ware.

 

pocket rockets is long gone outta biznes for a while now

 

That whole offset bore/deckplate idea was and is a huge waste of time. A big CC H is very do-able, you don't need a deck plate or offset bores to get you there. In fact, for a drag application, I'd prefer to use the standard deck H block (no deck plate) with a large stroke.

Anyways, to the OP. If you really want a 2600-2700cc H, PM me. I'd like to get an idea of what you're looking to accomplish with the build and make sure this is the best route for you. Either way, I'll help you get to where you want to go.

 

Pm me if you truly are serious and have cash ready for a stroked motor

 

nobody sells a shelf stroker kit larger than 100mm that i know of, your gonna need custom crank, rods and pistons. your also gonna need some custom work done to the block and girtle/oil supply.

im assuming your looking into this setup for competition purpose, do you have an engine builder to work with?

assuming you do everything properly and use all the right parts, this will be a very competitive platform...

 

PM'd

 

anyone have any feedback on 2.5 liter brian crower kit ???

 

i was told the cranks are prone to bending

 

its better to just buy the crank and run your choice of h22 rod and custom pistons from whichever brand you want.

i ran the crank for a season and it bent in the center. but it may be a good starting point to have it reworked to a 106...

i still have it and would let it go cheap if you think you could use it

 

nah2b, did you try to contact crower about this?? warranty?

 

no but i shared the information w/ one of their distributors where i purchased the crank who happens to be a fellow racer and was told he would see what they would do. i never heard anything back.

i would not expect a warranty anyway since its a race motor...

although had they replaced it i may still be racing, or maybe it would have just bent again lol

 

Somebody on here has a 107 mm stroker kit for sale . Ive talked to the guy . he has everything but the deck plate which i have no idea who you could get to make one.

On the other hand im also not sure what your trying to acclomipish but i think your going about it the wrong way . I could be wrong i have no idea what your trying to do but there is alot of different ways to make hp and a 107mm stroke is going to be anything but dependable. If i wasnt willing to tear my motor down every race to check the bearings and possibly replace them then i wouldnt go this route. There are alot of different ways to make big hp with a h and it be dependable. The hp has never been the problem with a h its been the gearing . With a h2b kit that gives you alot more options to gearing but then you have the problem with traction and if eveybody is having trouble getting a h making over 300hp to hook at the track i dont know what you plan on doing with a h with a 107mm stroke lol but good luck id love to see it.

 

It's actually a 109 stroke and the guys is from the oc

 

traction isnt a major problem imo, i was getting consistant mid to low 1.5x 60's making over 350whp

if hes trying to be competitive in the allmotor class it will take a 1.6 liter H making around 375whp to do it, and can be done fairly easily if you have the know how, time and money.

a longer 1st gear definately helps control wheel spin but there are other ways as well, tuning definately plays a part and the gearing/tire size needs to be right, but traction shouldnt be a major concern.

i would be much more concerned w/ who would be designing and assembling this motor as well as tuning it.

theres no need for a deck plate to stuff a 106 stroke in an H. it will need some custom fabrication though

 

i know there are a couple 110 cranks sitting around somewhere and also a 115 from back in the day when prostock still had alot of H motors

i heard its possible to fit the 110 w/o a deckplate but i cant confirm..

 

It can fit.. Just needs some work

 

110? 115? I don't know about that. The deck height isn't the issue, its the available space within the crankcase that limits you as to how big of a stroke you can run.

 

110 has been done more than once, not sure if the 115 (may have been 113 or 114, only the machinist knows for sure) was ever put to use but i have been told it will fit in a modified crankcase. im not sure if theres room for a rod w/o using a deckplate, but i would imagine if the stroke fits in the crankcase the deck height will work as well.

im well aware of the crankcase limitations, epoxy solves the problem until you run out of block...

 

The deck height has nothing to do with it. You can run a stock length rod (although it may have to be with a D series crank pin/journal to keep it as narrow as possible within the crankcase) and a compression height of .843-.850 depending on the final deck with a 110mm stroke. There is a lot that needs to be done with the block to make even 106-107 strokes fit. a 110+ stroke seems a little much in an H/F block. At even moderate strokes, you have to modify the oil girdle, machine the bottom of the cylnders, etc. Thats why I said I didn't know about going as big as 110 or 115. I personally know of 102's through 107's, but nothing bigger than that.

As far as the deck goes, the only reason you'd ever consider changing the deck height would be to increase the r/s ratio, which is a non factor in a N/A drag application.

 

guess i should have said "decent rod"

im still concerned w/ r/s to a point if i intend to get x number of hits out of the motor, thats just me

the 109 Flatbush spoke of may be one of the same 110s im talking about. the 110 and 115 i mentioned are rough numbers i remember from way back, i should have stated that. its been a long time since i learned about those cranks and my memory is terrible just like my math, they were roughly 110 and 115 but there were a couple of the smaller cranks and one of the larger cranks im not sure if the larger ever went down the track.

 

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but it sounds like after reading this i can make my h22a a 2.4 with stock crank just agjusting rod and pistons correct?

 

Probably not going to happen with a stock crank. You need to at least drop in an H23/F22 95mm crank (assuming your H22 has 50mm mains) and go up to an 88-89mm bore. Too increase displacement you have to go with a bigger bore, bigger stroke or a combo of both. Changing the length of your connecting rod and compression height of your piston will not change the displacement.

My 2.4l build is comprised of an F22B2 block with 95mm crank, H22 rods and custom 89mm bore, 29.08mm compression height pistons.


If you are looking to keep the bore @ a stock 87mm then you will need a 100mm crank w/rods & pistons to match.