Pleassseeee help. Cannot seem to figure this out. Heres the details:

I Have a 1991 Si CRX. I just pulled the D-series out of it and swapped in a JDM b16a. I used the D series harness (wired in knock sensor, vtec pressure switch, and vtec solenoid). Using a Obd0 PR3 ECU, which should be the correct ECU for the motor. I am using Obd1 Saturated injectors, so I just cut the wiring going to the resistor box and joined all 5 of the wires together.

It will not start for some reason. I crank it over and the injectors will only fire once, only ONE pulse. I used a noid light on one of the injector clips to discover this. Injectors are getting 12v power at all times. It has fuel, and has spark. Im completely lost. Please help.

 

lets star off with this. what model crx? dx? also what motor did your "saturated" injectors come from? i ask this because not all obd1 injectors are saturated. if your stock obd0 injector clips plugged in to your new injectors, i have news for you they are not saturated and require a resistor box. saturated injector clips will have a smooth side surface, where as peak/hold will be similar but have a raised bevel along one of the faces.

 

if your injectors came off a prelude or accord, then they will be peak/hold

 

It is an Si. And I have no idea what the injectors are from, they were in the motor when I got it. I ohm tested the injectors and they were all around 12 ohms, which would lead me to believe they are saturated. And sorry, I forgot to mention I swapped injector clips from an obd1 harness I had lying around into this harness

 

any check engine lights?

 

Not that I have seen. I turn the key forward and the little red LED on the ecu just quickly blinks, which I'm sure is just to indicate that it's turned on. I know once I eventually get it running it is going to throw a secondary o2 CEL (JDM obd0 motors had two o2 sensors) because I haven't wired the second one in yet, I wasn't going to worry about that for awhile.

 

its been a while since i used an obd0 ecu, but i could swear the ecu isnt supposed to blink at all to indicate its functioning popely.

 

It sure does. It turns on for about a second once the key is in the 'on' position.

 

first thing does u starter work ????? or just the injector make the click ??? did u check ur ground ???did u check if ur car is not choked with gas ???

 

that happend to me twice in the first time was a ground on my car with a choked of gas and second my ignition didnt work well!!!!

 

Starter works, it turns over just fine. Only time I could kind of get it to fire is when I poured a little gas in the throttle body, that's it though.

 

have you checked your pressure fuel pump????

 

Que le *** you say?

 

It has fuel and spark. I removed the fuel return line and fuel came shooting out when the key was turned forward. Removed a plug and placed it on the valve cover with the wire on it and the spark plug sparked when turned over. The problem is the ecu isnt firing the injectors for some reason, I cannot figure out why or how to solve it. Would a bad dizzy cause injectors to not fire? I don't think the two are really related at all are they?

 

How's the spark look? Orange/yellow or blue/white? You could be getting a very weak spark. Also, is the gas fresh?

 

does the ecu for sure work? try using an ecu from a guaranteed source.. also, what was the need to use obd1 injectors when everything else is obd0 ?

 

For testing purposes can you wire the resistor box back up and use the Si injectors?

 

I also tried the old d series ecu, just for testing purposes, no go. I only used the obd1 injectors because they were already in the motor and I couldnt find whether the d series ones were the same size as what the B16 would require. To change to the obd0 peak and hold injectors I'd have to swap the clips back over again.

 

One thing I just thought of. It looks like the dizzy might be an obd1 dizzy. Because all the wires have been re-soldered and it looks like obd0 plug ends were put on the dizzy. This is why im thinking it might be a obd1 distributor. The swap was in a car before and was ran with an obd1 ecu. Thoughts?

 

Bump!

 

if thats the case, look on the mounting tabs. you will see one of the following:
TD22U - OBD0 B16
TD44U - OBD1 B16

 

Problem solved! It was indeed an obd1 dizzy. I don't have an obd0 b16 dizzy so I just used a b18a one I had lying around, and cut one of the tabs off. She runs pretty well. Only issue is its throwing a knock sensor code. Not sure why, maybe I wired it up wrong or something I'm not sure. Thanks anyways for all the help though everyone.