I thought it might be a nice idea to copy my project topic to this forum too, so this is it. Donīt mind the timeline, it doesnīt always match.

I bought my first car, this EG8 DXi in 2009.







I bought some ignition parts and changed the spark plugs, ignition cap and rotor etc. The result was a total spark loss :x Ignition coil was blown.

After changing the coil, i bought some audio parts.



- Pioneer DEH-P8100BT
- Pioneer TS-E170CI

I did the adapters from the 10mm plywood.





Then something minor fixes:

License plate lights before/after:





Backlights before/after:





Previus owners painting skills :x









I removed the horrible green tapings. They were cutted to the shape _after_ installing them. So the cars paint had nasty cut markings


Then i installed the aftermarket central locking system by SteelMate.



The wirings inside the original harness:



The front door installation:





Some crunchy rust spots:







The repair piece



And some more rust:



Now i made some bad repair work, cause i was told by some wnb mechanics and painters that "when you do it like this, it will work"

I was told the i should weld the new piece to it in two pieces and that i should spray the 1-component Zinc-paint first and use the putty in top of it.

Well... That doesnt work cause the putty will cause the Zing to boil...





When i realized these problems. I gave up and drove the whole winter in just like this:



I knew that in spring 2010 i have to start it all over again.


In spring 2010 i made the decision that i wanna keep this car and really start this project.



More rust:



Dissassembling



My previous "hurry installations"



200 cable ties later...





Then i thought that when the carpet was off, i could change the color of it and also use Silent Coat sound dampening mat to reduct road noices.







Then some welding work:





I also took the towing hook of. I dont need it.





Then was time to get the basework going. I decided that the color would be "SuperBlack".

Doors stone hits:



The acid coat/primer:











Stoppers:





Primer sprayed:



Then my army service begun and there was 9 months of nothing done to the car. (Served as Finnish Military Police SharpShooter)

After getting free project continued:





The interior was horrible in grey, so i had to star the interior color swap.

I used VHT Vinyl Dye. Color was Satin Black.







Before Silent Coat:



Before Vinyl Dye:



After:





Some random pics from the "last" summer:

















Random rework done:





Noise reduction:







Dash:









Horrible paintwork in all plastic parts:



I swapped all the normal bulbs to a LEDs.







Then i wanted to get rid of the manual windows. So i started the manual to power windows/mirrors swap:



Original black vs Vinyl Dye Satin Black:



Then was time to try some SuperBlack. I have never painted anything with spray gun before this project.













I bought the JDM Optional Arm Rest, and fixed the scratches. I sprayed it with vinyl dye.















Then was time to buy a new player: Kenwood KIV-700





Cleaning the window rails:

 

Trunk dents before fixing:





















5%



Clearance between speaker and window :roll:



Audison 4AWG Cable Set to my Rainbow iPaul 2400



The whole distance between player and speakers is 2,5mm2 cable. The original cables are not used.

 

Driving to the painter...





The garage stereos came of the wall, and dropped directly on the fender...









Power Window Swap:



Vinyl Dye:



New paint:











Power Windows











Parking LEDs. 100 lumen x2 8)





Still has lots of work to do with the bumbers etc...



New tires/rims:











Fixing the Corolla spoiler that came with the car.







Have to do the rear window tint again using better materials.



Paint will get the buffing work some day

 

Repairing the rear bumber, lots of dents:



























Car is dirty and the bumber is just painted so it looks like if had some differences in painting color.



My amateur painting skills





New mirrors



...and they are to the 2D/3D :x





Some Silent Coat in trunk




I had to make custom 4D adapters to these mirrors.
I started by doing the inside plates:





The screws taken from the original mirrors





Then i took the base plates that camed with the CF mirrors, and used their shape to make a good fitting adapters.









CF-putty:





Uggly cap:



Covering tape:













Fitment is better than in the original base plates :thumb:





Before installing:



After:







Installing a DEFA alarm system:



Random picture from cars condition:



I did the tweeter installation again, with better direction so it sounds better.









Digital Timing Adjustements:

 

Some I.C.E setups...

- Acer Aspire REVO R3600 1.6GHz
- 7 Inch 800 x 480 resolution display, with Ebay touch screen panel and controller. Also changed the display controller to better, so it handles VGA instead of just Composite.

Starting to do the new center console.













CarPC





VESA standing



USB:s



Now some light fixings:







And then finished tweeters:

 

I ordered Wings West RS style polyurethane front lip and Type-R style polyurethane rear lip.



Center console:





Silent Coat to the roof and pillars:





Random feelings pics:







Interior Color Swap...





Center console testing. Need fabrication.





Center Console fabrication teaser:





Front window tint 50%



The edge:



3M DiNoc









50% Smoke:







B&W



Before/After pics. Some things are still under work:

















7 inch touchscreen + VGA- addon mod:



Reverse Camera:



Interior Color Swap:

 

Then was time to start the some technic work.

I decided that i will have a B18C Spec R engine swap, so i started it with making the chassis better. EG6/EG9 brakes etc.

Some parts bought:

- EG6 rear brakes
- 24mm ITR front swaybar
- A Spec Racing End Link Set
- A Spec Racing Subframe Reinforcement Brace
- Skunk2 Pro Series Camber Kit Rear
- A Spec Racing Rear Sway Bar 24mm

Still need the handbrake cables and TEGIWA or Function 7 LCA:s to get the rear end finished.



Somebody in the Finnish forum dynamiitti.com told that the Skunk2 camber kit is installed upside down in this picture, i dont know, it looked silly this way, but i copied the installation from the original part.



Now (3.1.2012 )its installed the other way. The later pics are with the "wrong" "old" installation.





































LED:s vs normal bulb:





Also bought an 4 channel amplifier to my "HIFI" system.



More pics from installed parts:



















24mm ITR front swaybar installation parts vs ASR 24mm rear swaybar installation parts :roll:





Pyramide matt behind the speakers:

 

Things iīv already done to my car:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EG8 DXi:
- Rusts, dents, plastics; fixed
- Color Change: NH-538 -> SuperBlack
- Coupe front bumper (needs rework to get perfect fitment)
- Coupe/HB Spoon Style electric carbon fiber mirros with home made adapter plates and ESi wiring harness.
- Roof and pillar antenna removed.
- Wings West RS polyurethane front lip
- Type-R polyurethane rear lip
- Rear towing hook removed
- Rear windows tinted 5%
- Front side windows tinted 50%
- Some Corolla trunk spoiler(?)
- B-pillar plastics fixed with 3M DiNoc carbon fiber vinyl.
- Sanded, polished, and medium tinted rearlights, and indicators.
- SuperFlux LEDs in park lights, front- rear- and side indicators, brake lights and licence plate lights.
- DEFA Patriot alarm.

Interior:
- Complete color change from grey -> Satin Black
- JDM Optional Arm Rest
- Complete power windows swap using original Honda parts from ESi.
- All center console/"AC"/switches/cluster lights changed to LEDs.
- Added red backlit LED lights to Power Windows switches.
- Added red backlit LED lights to warmed seats switches.
- Home made mirror plates tweeter adapters.
- Painted carpet to black (i think im gonna change it to red(?))

Chassis/Brakes/tires/rims:
- 40mm lowering set (dont know the brand)
- RoadStone N3000 205/40/16 tires
- Barzetta Katana Titanium 16ī rims
- ASR rear subframe reinforcement plate
- ASR 24MM rear sway bar
- ASR end links.
- Skunk2 Pro Series Plus camber-kit rear
- Skunk2 Pro Series Plus camber-kit front
- D2 Racing TOE-kit rear
- DXi drums -> VTi disc brake swap
- Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
- *Soodapuhalletut* + red painted trailing arms
- *Soodapuhalletut* black painted *brake shields*
- Energy Suspension red trailing arm bushings.
- Cleaned/*massatut* *pyöränkotelot*

I.C.E.
- Kenwood KIV700 DSP player. "EISA AWARDS 2010 - 2011"
- Pioneer TS-E170Ci in front and rear, 2,5mm2 wirings all the way.
- Autostudio 4 channel T-480 amplifier to the Pioneers (15mm2 power lines)
- Rainbow iPaul 2400 amplifier to subwoofer(Audison 25mm2 power lines)
- Rainbow Cyclone 12 subwoofer
- Audison Connection FT2550 RCA-cables ( x 3).
- Silent Coat 4mm (12m2) damping matt to, doors, roof, *hattuhylly* trunk, trunk lid, *tulipelti*, pillars.
- Behind front door mids: 15mm thick Silent Coat Sound absorber.
- Acer Aspire Revo R3600 PC with XBMC. Going to CentraFuse.
- 7-inch touchscreen with VGA/S-Video/Composite.
- Rearview camera with IR.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

* Means that i dont know the right english term to it.

 

I ordered some LEDs, and relay to LEDs from ebay;

Front and rear indicators:



Backlights/Brakelights:



Also did some little modifications:







Details...



Rears:







Front lip (needs some hot air)





Looks like **** when not painted :<

 

Some video how the sound dampening effects. In video it sounds bad cause there is really bad echo in the garage. In live, the sound is really soft.

http://hitecmods.kuvat.fi/kuvat/Civi...108_193337.mp4

Bad pic from rear door(s) sound dampening. The plates that close the gap are missing from the picture.



I also installed those mirror defrosters.



Next there is really boring car related video :D "How the ebay defrosters work". Tested in these conditions: I putted the mirror glasses in -15 for about 1 hour. Then straight from outside to in, and hook up with 12V 4amp battery. The video is like watching paint to dry :lol:

http://hitecmods.kuvat.fi/kuvat/Civi...113_194539.mp4

Then some cleaning:





Sorry about bad english. Itīs hard to deal with these car related technic words.

 

Wrong LEDs :x

This is how i swapped the socket:

I broke the normal bulb:



Removed the wrong socket from the LED:



And then soldered the right socket to the LED.

Pictures about the new parts:







And there it is (shitty knuckle and brake line ) :



I painted the ITR front sway bar to red:









And ordered Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings set (RED)...

 

This is where we are today: Bushings arrived from energysuspensionparts.com

 

Hell of a build.

 

You are the man when it comes to fiberglass work. The tweeter pods, monitor bezel, and mirror plates look great! Subscribed for the finished product.

 

This build is great. Keep up the great work brother

 

Yeah great ****!!! I WANT THOSE HEADLIGHT SQUERTERS!!! Doubt you still have them but if you do PM me a price shipped to 99027

 

amazing work you have done with the fiberglass

 

Wow. I don't have any words to add that haven't been said. Amazing job!

 

Thanks for the nice feedback, much appreciated!

I managed to get a flu, but i still got the job done with the bushings.

I sweared like cursed in the garage when removing the old bushings without press. I didnt have any other right tools either.

Bushings from "normal" energy end link set to ITR-end links:



Old bushings.





Front lower control arm "big bushing" removed:



With ES:



All in:







then i thought that cause i dont have any use to the optional arms rests inside box, i could do something nice to it.

Parts are pretty much recycled, the only new part is the cooler, cause i wanted i silent one (9db):

- Cool side block is copper (from old Xbox 360 processor cooler which i removed the upper side.)
- Hot side cooling gets done with Xbox 360 GPU aluminium cooler. I attached a 9db 80x80mm cooler to it.
- 12V peltier element (cant remember the power)
- PVC(?) pipe
- Old lunchbox ripped apart to get proper insulation.

And the whole thing will be "bolt on" inside original optional arm rest, se the thing is revertable to original. I know that the fysics law say that the best place to the cooler element would be the arms rest lid. But removing the excess heat would be a big problem.

Some pics (prototype looks extreme ugly, but i promise that when it is ready someday, it will look very nice and OEM. :

 

282mm front discs arrived, i test fitted them to my old DX knuckles (iīm getting ITR DC2 knuckles). Here is couple of pics:

Olds:





240mm vs. 282mm







New MTEC discs test fitted:







I think that these discs need different type of rims...





Still waiting my ITR calibers to arrive...

 

Iīve been done some misc work with the car:







I also got a new camera from my girlfriend, so here is some better pix taken with Canon IXUS 105

Headlight tuck started. I just got the wire harness of. Ordered some different size and color shrink tube and a mesh guard. Still waiting them to arrive.





Have to do something to my register plate, that rattling doesnīt sound nice. (I covered the microphone with my finger so the subs pressure doesnīt sound too bad).

http://hitecmods.kuv...0211_154856.mp4

Felt bad to cut those harness, but i managed to mod the drivers side. I dont want to do a full wire tuck, cause my opinion is that if you mod those harnesses that stay visible to look great, they will look technic, which i personally like. Those headlight/headlight washers/horn/wiper harnesses i want to hide, so it will be easier to paint and keep the engine bay clean.
So, i modded the harness so the ABS-connector and tachotest connector will be under the carpet. I hope that the pictures will clear my idea, cause i dont know how to put my idea to words.



Here is allready some nice DIY:s to wire tuck, but if somebody wants to do the excact same thing as I here is some pics. So in this picture, you can see the modified harness. The upgoing wires are rewired to go BEFORE the rubber seal. You will need to extend 2 wires. I added one wire to this harness (hood sensor to alarm), so the alarm wirings will look as much OEM as it can.



I tested the wire route using orange wire mesh. Even this is not going to be visible to the eye, i dont want to use orange color, so this is just a test. Also, iīm ofc buying a rubber seal to the "wire through hole".





I dont have any mugen parts in my car yet, but i had to... This means that i have to buy something :D



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Calipers arrived today. I spent the whole day scraching paint and rust off from the left caliper.





After 4 hours:





Red Duplicolor high temp brake caliper paint :







More scratching:



And paint:





I also polished those plates. (Before)



After installed:





Next things to get: 262mm/4x100 hubs, ITR 1īMBC + servo, EBC Greenstuff front pads, stainless steel brake lines to front, and Buddy Club extended ball joints.

 

While waiting parts, i had to do something useful. I remembered that i had problems with the climate control.
I took some pics while fixing the motor. Hope this DIY is useful to somebody.

Some bird could get a nice nest...:





Fixing the annoying sound motor:

Unscrew the motor from the plastic assembly under the clove box, and unscrew these screws:



Get the rotor out from the axle using some pliers, bench and little hammer:



Use compressed air to blow all those **** off. As you can see in this pic, you cant change the brushes easily, cause there isnīt enough room:



Snap the motor backplate off:



Find a flat metal thingy, put it in a place showed in a picture (watch out the "coils") and carefully hammer the motor out (not completely) from the plastic::



Hammer it so it looks like this. (You can now clean and oil the lower bearing. Oil that "spongebob" looking thing too):



Unclip the plates that hold the brushes and pull the brushes out. Snap out the old ones, and solder in the new brushes (i used the file to modify my alternator brushes to right size): put it all together again and remember to clean and oil the upper bearing:



Use hammer to get the motor back to its plastic assembly, wash all ther parts and put it together and test. Its quiet :wink:

 

Right side wire tuck:

Battery and fusebox out:



Old tapings and covers out:





All the old stuff removed:



Random pic about the Silent Coat sound deadening:



Wires cut and though the original rubber boot one at the time:



An as you can see, the wires go through the factory hole (i think i have to buy moar Silent Coat):



New rubber wire through:



I removed the harnesses original clips, so they stayed intact and i was able to reuse them to achieve clean looking install. Pic shows that i need to extend only 4 AC-wires. Also shows the new ground point. :



I ordered 35 meters different sized and colored wire mesh guard. And couple of meters different sized and colored shrink tube. 2 weeks till they arrive.

 

I got a job, so it was time to do some shopping cause of it

- Function7 LCA:s



- Buddy Club extended balljoints:



- Goodridge steel braided brake lines:





- BLOX Limited Neo Chrome **** ~450gr:



- Clear Amber corners HB/Coupe:



What i did today? Well, today i couldnīt do much. Just waiting parts to arrive and doing some little things.

Before (bad sunburns):







After Satin Black:







That little plate that i wrapped with DiNoc will mostly be under the seal, but couple of millimeters will be visible, so thatīs why i added that detail.

 

It was just a sudden mental disorder to get those lights. I was able to change the order and i will get OEM-look ambers instead of those clear ones 8)

Todays update:

I painted the place where the wiper motors are black (paparazzi striked):



I also ripped apart the wiper thingy, cleaned and painted it silver:





Grill installed (need to do something to that seal):



I also painted the inside plastic fenders back to black, cause they looked bad (not that they look too good now ):