looking to do sum road-racing this spring and picked up one of these kits last summer...Read sum threads and im kinda nervous about running the relocation kit...yall shoot me sum advice on expierence(good&bad)...thanks

 

Start with grammar then move to the mechanical side of things

 

truth

 

Come on guys that rude and who cares. oil cooler would be a good idea imo but I don't really know how relocating your oil filter is going to help any. I'm pretty fast at replacing it where it is now, yeah it can get on your exhaust and run down the back of your block but thats nothing a little brake clean wont fix.

 

I've always hear they are prone to leak no matter who makes them. A friend of mine had one on his EM1 and no matter what we did, it leaked. Not bad, but still.

 

thats what im hearing too...was it bad leak or a slow drip?

 

This thread is about oil cooler kits not grammer dick..

 

It wasn't really leaking as much as I'd say it was "weeping". No matter what we used, Honda Bond, pipe tape, etc.....it would quit for a short time then within a few weeks the oil dampness would show back up at one of the threaded joints somewhere. It was a kit from Jackson Racing and I never really liked where it re-located the filter, front and center against the firewall. When you'd break the filter loose changing it and it puked oil everywhere.

 

was there any oil pressure issues?

 

Nope, not one whatsoever.

 

I think they are great but really do your research. I used Mocal barbeb fittings on aeroquip hose. You would of thought that this would be fine, but it was hopeless. Buy propper suaged lines and connectors. Use PTFE tape on your threads and you will be safe in the knowledge you did everything you could to prevent leaks. I learnt my lesson when the line popped off and emptied all my oil onto Oulton park. . Luckily i was super vigilant and i turned the motor off instantly. Was a painful wait to get towed back to the pits though.

 

You sound like me, watching and listening for anything out of what should be normal. Glad your motor didn't seize.

OP After giving this some thought last night, why would you need an O/C if your not tracking the car keeping revs elevated for an extended period of time? Just asking. I could also see the use of one if the car was heavily boosted also.

 

when it comes to AN fittings always ALWAYS use the same brand throughout all connections. They're technically built to an identical standard unless stated otherwise (few companies), but they are always a bit different. Leaks are not at all uncommon with mixed brand fittings.

 

Well i do plan on tracking my ITR and it is boosted(motor has also just been rebuilt for boost)...jus trying to upgrade every aspect of cooling efficiency...from what ive been reading on older threads oil coolers are a must for boosted hondas...thankx for the info guys! willisITR im glad u didn't seize the motor on that beautiful CW ITR too

 

Stock to lightly modified ITR's don't require an oil cooler unless you are doing a long event (1+hrs) or you are in a very hot climate. For a boosted ITR, you should get at a minimum 13-row cooler.

Invest in a good cooler, lines, fittings and block adapter. Cheap parts leak. Oil level and oil pressure are critical to engine longevity.

While I was doing frequent track days, I ran a mocal thermostat sandwich plate, Earl's Pro-Lite 350 lines, Earl's fittings and a Mocal 13-row (low-density) cooler. I've since removed everything since the car is not track oriented anymore.

Some cooler manufacturers offer various density cooler designs to accommodate airflow to other liquid-air cooling devices (intercooler, radiator, etc). If you want to mount the cooler in front of your radiator you should get a lower density cooler with more rows. If you can mount it off to the side with ducting, a higher density, lower row-count cooler can achieve the same results.

Invest in some quality oil pressure and oil temperature gauges as well.

 

I see what you're saying. The O/C I made mention of like I said came altogether in a kit. I'd like to believe all fittings were from the same manufacturer but I know now if I ever want one of my own I'll build it myself. Good info to put on the back burner of my brain.

 

There's a write up about my cooling system on the EXPO website if you want to look for it.

 

So you can spend several thousand $$ on your car, but it is too much effort to type out a couple of sentences that are somewhat close to the english language? Then you call someone a name for pointing it out. lol.

And are you "racing" or simply doing HPDE's? I'm guessing just driving events.

 

I've got a Mocal 19row with braided lines, earls fittings and the filter relocator.Im still thinking of ditching the filter relocator for a mocal sandwich plate...Erik95LS whats the link to see your setup? Trying to also figure out how im gonna make everything fit in the engine bay as well and again thanks for the info guys and not ******* grammer/typing skills. Also I've heard baffled oil pan are a must, any truth to this?



Todd00;yes the plan is to do HPDE events and more trips to the mountains

 

^^http://forums.itrexpo.com/zerothread...=229572#229572

 

thanks for the link itr#1334...i jus wish the pics were still there...

 

server is down at the moment. They should be back up before long.

 

For what is such a simple cheap job i wouldn't run my DC2 on track without baffles. You can buy the baffle plates for $20 and fit them when you next change your oil. Nice to see what grime is lurking in the sump pan too .

I do know a few people who race there ITRs and have run for years without baffles. They overfill their sumps by about 5mm on the dip stick. But ideally get baffles to prevent surge on those long sweepers . Check your brake fluid level too. That caught me out on my first track day when i didnt have baffles in the oil pan and really sh#t me up. I went round the first corner and saw a light flick up on my dash and instantly thought it was low oil pressure. Luckily i realised pretty sharpish it was just just low brake fluid haha!

 

Robert, I would first invest in an oil temp/pressure gauge. Type R's come from the factory with a smaller oil cooler (I think it is just off the coolant system) but if you are keeping to your coolant temps down it should help. With as little track time as you are getting in I don't know if you would have to jump right in with a full oil cooler setup. You need to make sure your actually having heat issue and if after you install a cooler it is actually working.

 

Big Andrew whats up!? Goog idea..I already have the oil pressure gauge, I'll probably jet over to autozone and grab a oil temp gauge today or 2morrow...Is'nt the oil pan the best place to install the temp sensor? Btw are you hitting up Ohio for expo12? If so we outta ride out together..