After I finally got my car running, it started to get harder and harder to start, and while cranking, the Main relay would click really really fast. Takin8ez on here, sent me his old relay for free, today I put that on and it does the same thing. But this time I noticed the ECU's LED flashes every time the relay clicks, so it's flashing really fast.

About a month agot I checked and cleaned all my ground, so I know they are good, and I know a dying battery could cause the clicking, but I have jumper cables hooked up to another car, so it's not like it's not getting enough power.

I do not have an alternator belt on right now, I was waiting till I get a new one, and I haven't got around to it yet.

Any input is appreciated.

 

What, precisely, happens when you turn the key to "II", and leave it there?

Please include the precise behavior of the Check Engine light, including any times (as in seconds duration) of specific events that you may observe.

 

I'm not exactly sure but I think my dummy lights were going on and off with the clicks. Which would make me assume battery connection or ground, but they are good.

When I leave it at "II" nothing really happens, I can hardly hear the fuel pump now too, I'm not even sure it primed this time.

 

You're asking for help, and I'm trying to offer it. Vagueness on your part helps nobody.

When you leave the key on "II", does the Check Engine light come on for TWO SECONDS, then GO OFF? And during the time it's ON, does the gas pump whine? If you're not sure, remove the gas cap and have somebody listen at the open filler neck as the key is turned to "II".

Have you checked battery voltage with a multimeter? If so, do you see 12.65V and no less? Engine OFF, key OUT, I mean.

Please answer all questions, not just one.

 

check engine light doesnt stay on when your at II?...I replaced mine after the clicking and havent had a problem since...its possible the one he sent you may have been faulty as well

 

You have an IM. 94

 

I'm not around my car or I would answer that for you, can't really tell you much by not being able to find out for you. Otherwise, I would be guessing, and that doesn't help anyone either.

And I would check the voltage at the battery, but it would be pointless, as the battery is dead, that's why I am using jumper cables.

 

sounds like a poor ground. possibly at the t-stat housing

 

Ok thanks guys. I cleaned all my grounds a while ago, but maybe not good enough on the thermo.

 

also, check that the wires haven't become brittle with broken strands

 

Fair enough.

If FCM gives you a working solution in his PM, it would be nice if it could be shared with those in this thread.

 

Like el crapitan said, I would inspect all the exposed wires in your bay. Specifically the injector wires. If there's a crack in the insulation and its touching metal it'll give you problems. Unfortunately, these problems are pesky and time consuming most of the time. Hope it helps.

 

i was more referring to the ground wires at the cluster on the t-stat housing

 

I was more adding to what you said and contributing to the thread.

 

Will do. Odd's are it will work out, FCM is alway right lol.

 

Thanks guys didn't get a chance to try to diagnose it today, I will tomorrow, and post up FCM's advice.

 

cool beans, bud

 

http://youtu.be/nwVkjheanQk

 

andy sandberg is the fricken man

 

I'm on a boat bitch...

lol when you said cool beans he was the first person to pop in my head

 

i just had sex

 

Did you jizz in your pants?

 

After making love with your mother?

 

when i was thinking about jack sarrow
LOL

 

Remember the safe word is Hwiskey