For starters, lets keep this intelligent and have logical explanations to the answers in which you may supply. Thank you for your time.

Rant/explanation:
Since I am still fairly new to Honda's I am having a hard time debating on what route to take on an NA setup. I would like to stay away from the K-Series. Why? because I feel that they are too mainstream and would like to stay somewhat old school and stick with the B series. I am sure a lot of you think that that is retarded but then again, its not your money. I just think its over played. Dont get me wrong, its a great engine. I dont want to be like every other Honda guy I know.

Current Engine:
I currently have a B16A2 in the 97 Cx Hatch. I want to do a fully built NA Engine. My budget is unlimited but I can not simply buy everything at once. Also I do not plan to buy a set of $3000 ITB's.

Purpose:
I want to Autocross the car eventually and ultimately have a decent engine setup to at least keep up with some of the more powerful vehicles within the region. I dont expect a 300hp beast. I expect something around 200-250 would be more than suffice.

Options/Me being Puzzled:
This is the part I need help with. I have considered buying a B16 block and building as time goes on while I just learn my current setup. Or should I go with a larger B20 or B18 bottom end? I understand that the top will have to be built as well.

Yes I Understand:
Most of you probably think I am half retarded for not knowing this or being unable to find the information on my own,and I really don't care. Or for not wanting to go with a K-Series. The plan is to keep the car looking stock while being able to expend some decent power.

 

B16's are the choice of many a road racer today. They love to rev and have basically no torque when not boosted. Also they are by no means cheap and plentiful at the yards (unless you like paying through the nose for one) Google them and you'll find a ton of sites that will sell you a complete swap for 2k. There are a few for sale here in the classifieds as well.
I'm in the same boat, trying to buy a block (short or long) and build it slowly as budget allows. If you're not building to a specific sanctioning body's rules then consider Omnimans DVD as a good place to get started. It's a very informative build. It'll give you an idea of what can be done to the B16 when built without a sanctioning body's rules.
Good luck!

 

hmmm...

 

Stay with your b16 bro unless your looking to burn out at ever stop sign you good i have a b16a spac2 with ITR headers,aem v2 intake,skunk2 mani,itr cams,act 6puck,oem lsd on a base map in my ek ex coup its my daily and I LOVE IT on the highway i spank my boys gsr hatch...i wish i could road race it but in NYC you need a perment for it which i dont have

 

Where did all the intelligent people go?

Your getting the cream of the crop here!

That being said, you are beating a dead horse. To the point of it being a liquid. Building a B series engine has been done since the early 90's, nothing special about it. I'm sure there are tones of build threads you could look through to get a good basis on which to start your build.

I don't think you are retarded for not being able to find the info yourself. You simply fit in with the others that are too lazy to do any reading or research. Trust me your not alone.

 

This would be a good starting point.
100% stock b16 with bolt ons 192whp 115tq
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/100%25-stock-b16-bolt-ons-192whp-115tq-3017492/

 

Saying the B16 is the choice of many road racers today is not exactly a statement I would stand by religiously. The way you put it makes it sounds like you did a google search and Wiki gave you some generic BS answer as usual. I don't know many racers out there who whold prefer a B16 over a GSR/ITR or even LSV build. Torque is a necessity in all aspects of every type of racing. It's what actually will get your car out of the corners quicker especially as the RPM's drop. Yes for road racing revving is good, but a properly built 1.8 or even 2.0 will run circles around a B16 and turn the same RPM...making more power....and lower in the powerband. A broad powerband IMO is FAR better than a peaky powerband. If this wasn't true they would use a B16 in the F1 cars and rev it out of control. Just saying don't make a blanket statement when there is far more backup otherwise.
OP it will be MUCH easier and cheaper to reach your power goals with a larger motor, simply put, there is no replacement for displacement.

 

LS crank, aftermarket B16 rods, custom 82mm piston (.950 compression height), a decent flowing head, a decent set of cams and the appropriate accompanying bolt ons. You'll have an 1880cc/1.9 B16 that will be a nice little set up to run around on the street, and, or, the road course. All stuffed nicely and stealth style in a B16 case. You'll definitely like the extra torque over the 1595cc displaced B16.

 

B16 rods on an LS crank?

 

Yup.

 

they'd have to be custom length or custom piston with relocated pin. i remember this was a real popular setup years ago.

 

Not worth all that IMO just to have a "stealth" setup. Much cheaper and easier to just throw a B18 in there and have money left over for bolt ons.

 

Not at all. You can use an off the shelf B16 rod from eagle, crower, etc. The only thing custom would be the pistons and whether or not you wanted to run a smaller wrist pin to keep the pin bore out of the oil ring groove on the piston. In that case, going with a smaller .748 (D Series) pin and a tighter ring pack, all you do is re-bush the pin end of the rod which is cheap and can be done by almost any machine shop.

Its a really simple set up.

 

Explain. Because its basically the same price either way you go. He already has the B16 block, LS cranks are plentiful and cheap. He's likely going to buy pistons and rods anyway. You end up spending the same on either option.

 

He doesn't NEED aftermarket rods nor does he NEED forged pistons. Like I said this is MY opinion, everyone is entitled to their own. A GSR/LS block, matching rods w/ ARP bolts, and a set of RS machine pistons for what he is looking to build will work perfectly. A set of custom rods are going to be at least $500. A LS shortblock, ARP bolts and RS pistons can be had for the price of custom rods alone. Not to mention he could sell the B16 shortblock for another chunk of change towards his build.

 

right. been a while since i've heard about that setup. i dont remember them being very common but the guys that did it got some decent numbers.

 

I'm not familiar with this setup but aren't the B16 rod caps and LS rod caps different sizes causing a "sloppy" fitment on the crank? I'm not trying to say your setup won't work or that it's a waste, just trying to help the guy with something more basic since he said he is new to hondas. Understanding the compatibility of B series stuff will be challenging enough for him then throwing all the custom stuff at him is another realm of engine building most people will never grasp. I can tell you know your stuff so I'm not discounting that. Just trying to be practical. Regardless at least we are having a TECH thread for once on this forum.

 

Ok, lets do it this way. He can use his stock B16 rods with new ARP bolts ($70). He gets a used LS crank ($50-$75). A custom set of B16 pistons, preferably using a 4032 alloy forging which is much better for street use than the standard 2618 alloy ($500-$600).

And the other way. LS Block ($200-$300). Stock LS rods with a set of ARP bolts ($70). RS pistons ($200). Set up the B16 head for LS/VTEC and the oil filter sandwich kit/line/fittings ($200)

Its about the same, just two different ways of making it happen.

 

No, its all the same. Same BE bore, same BE width, same bearing tangs, same journal on both the LS and B16 cranks.

 

I see both sides. I also included later he can sell his B16 to offset the cost of a LSV kit or whatever he chooses. Both are doable and will be great setup's. One just takes MUCH more knowledge than the other which IDK if he is ready to tackle yet. Not putting him down but I have been building motors (both domestics and hondas) for 6-7 years now and it would be a test of skill.

 

*Edit: Never mind!

 

Pulling my info from my own brain...like I said I'm not familiar with the setup being discussed as it was a more "old school" thing before I really got into the scene. I still feel like it's a good refresher although here we are spoon feeding someone..AGAIN

 

Wait, you have an unlimited budget and you're building a honda? I had assumed that people only built hondas because they're cost effective and they're on a budget. Well in that case since you want to be different you might as well keep the 1.6 displacement and build for peak power at 11k.

 

idk why people think building a b16 is poinless...i wounder how many people have ever drove a fully built b16 to even be saying that it all depends what your power goal is

 

Yeah. This is my 18th car within 4 years and my first Honda and fwd. I am currently a UH-60A/L/M mechanic so may paycheck is pretty decent. And I have a daily driver.

Anyway, it is hard to find info on google and here on ht due to all he threads saying the same, "why can't you search?". Hence the creating of my own thread in order to seek the answer in which I seek. Oh well it's not a big deal. All I wanted were combination and the power each combination or engine displaces both to the wheels and crank. It's quite a simple solution and would make an excellent sticky to end all the questions pertaining to all motor builds.