check it out early morning car like new start up fine. i drive it for 10 to 20 min park it for 5 to 10 min start it up again and the car starts to idling then shuts off. on the video thats the problem aim having..it seems when something get hot..its turn on goes to 1000 800 200 off
things i change and done
*spark plugs all six
*throutale body cleaned
*took off the whole top end and cleaned out the i think is evg value it was dirty so cleansed it out
*oil change

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPNR_...1&feature=plcp

 

Check ur grounds,if there loose or not there replace them or tighten them down,check ecu might have
corroded plugs.

 

i think it might be your main relay mines used to do this to

 

I have the same issue with the stalling on startup after a short drive. I've researched the issue thoroughly and came across a thread that describes exactly what we're experiencing. Message me for the link to the thread in the other forum. Basically on the 2000 V6s, fuel can vaporize in the lines while the car is sitting after it has been driven. The original poster in the other thread did some experimentation and determined that it would stall on startup if it sat for between 15 and 25 minutes. Before or after that, his car usually started normally.

Here's the Honda service bulletin on the issue: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ac..._heat_soak.pdf

Unfortunately the fix is a new fuel pressure regulator and a PCM. I was quoted $1,164 installed from my Honda dealer, $950 or so which was parts. I'm sure it's possible to get the parts cheaper, but it's not worth it to me.

 

Also, I should add that if you press the accelerator and hold the RPMs between 2,000 and 3,000 for about 30 seconds, your car should run fine. Another theoretical fix that I haven't tried yet, is turning the key to "2" aka "run", for about 10 seconds prior to starting the car. This MIGHT allow the fuel pump to pressurize the lines. If it happens to me again, I'm going to try this.

 

Fuel pump should pressurize the lines within the first 2 seconds of the ignition being turned on. If it does not then there is an issue with ether the fuel pump, main relay or the power and ground wiring between the two.

 

thanks all of you iam going to take a look at what all of u have said and see what i come across good looking out ill keep u potsed

 

You have a hell of a misfire man! The check engine is blinking when the RPM went to about 3000.Put the scanner on it and try to read codes.Also , I would check for the spark and injection pulse.To me it's general problem affecting all the cylinders.Did you torque the plenum?

 

it sound like a miss fire but this **** is trickie cause it only happen when the motor gets hot after 10 min or so. when i hold it is like there no are going in or fuel i dont know ill try to get a better video how the habbit

 

Again, my car did the exact same thing including the blinking check engine light. I had it scanned and it had 5 or 6 codes -- individual cylinder misfires, and then all/random cylinder misfires. Since only does it under very specific circumstances, I'm almost certain it's the fuel vaporization issue.

 

It might be a dream of mine, for some reason I want to think there is a TSB where a "re-flash" to the ECM/PCM is suppose to help with this.....going back to sleep.

 

Are you referring to the link in post 4 of this thread? I assume a re-flash could accomplish the same as replacing the ECM/PCM.