anyone using a teg LS map sensor on an EF??
was looking at the Ebay underhood vacuum diagram, it looks like they show a 2 solenoid map sensor (with two little cylinders on it). this is the same as the integra LS. on an EF, the square plug that powers the single solenoid has two wires, on the LS, there is a four pin plug that has four wires, 2 black, 2 green. i think i may have traced them back to where they go into the ECU on an integra, any one have any advice? next step is go to honda and acura to get diagrams.
well, props to the local honda dealership, once again. we pulled up a whole bunch of diagrams, and i found the wire routing on the map sensor to the ECU. there are 2 plugs, one is a 2pin with a black and a green wire, the other is a 3 pin (round) with a white( brown spotted), green w/ white stripe, and yellow w/ red stripe. the pinout is as follows.
purge cut solenoid (2 wires)
black-ground.
green- pin C11
map sensor. (3 wires)
white w/ brown spots-pin C6
green w/ white stripe-pin C15
yellow w/ red stripe-pin C8
next step is to do the same thing at the acura dealership for a 90 teg ls, and hook this teg map sensor up! by the way, the map sensor on the teg is actually 3 pieces, the map box itself, the purge cut solenoid, and a dashpot controller. however, the dashpot controller runs to the back of the intake manifold and the fuel pressure regulator! oh well. tomorrow, the acura dealer will reveal its secret. haha
purge cut solenoid (2 wires)
black-ground.
green- pin C11
map sensor. (3 wires)
white w/ brown spots-pin C6
green w/ white stripe-pin C15
yellow w/ red stripe-pin C8
next step is to do the same thing at the acura dealership for a 90 teg ls, and hook this teg map sensor up! by the way, the map sensor on the teg is actually 3 pieces, the map box itself, the purge cut solenoid, and a dashpot controller. however, the dashpot controller runs to the back of the intake manifold and the fuel pressure regulator! oh well. tomorrow, the acura dealer will reveal its secret. haha
hey dude, i actually hooked up this setup in my EF when i was running the 90-91 LS manifold. it was really not bad..the map plugged right in. i just tapped the wires from the one solenoid to power the other..they are constant power anyways.. and i had all the vacuum lines there as well. what exactly are you having trouble with?
i am not having any trouble, just wanted to see how it was wired to both ecu's, so that i could know for certain how to hook it up. so you are saying just to splice the second cylinder into the original wires? thanks.
no no, the map sensor is a single unit. Those other "cylinders" as you called them are purge valves, nothing more. They are used to control vapor. The map sensor on hondas is a 3 wire w/ a circular plug. They are almost all the same in function, whether it be a firewall mounted one or a throttlebody mounted one. If you have a newer motor with a TB mounted map, just extend the wires from the original map and plug it in to the new MAP.
got it all figured out. runs smooth. if i just had the proper brake lines i could bleed this thing and find out how the new brakes work!! thanks.
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They are almost all the same in function, whether it be a firewall mounted one or a throttlebody mounted one. If you have a newer motor with a TB mounted map, just extend the wires from the original map and plug it in to the new MAP.
just out of curriosity but why is it that my crx has 2 (look at pic ) and just about every otehr crx i see only has one of these..
repost that pic please.
http://a2.cpimg.com/image/A0/81/1347...-02000180-.jpg
well i have looked at it some more now and realized it goes for hte evap canister, has anyone gotten rid of theirs??? will the ecu throw a code if i get rid of it??? its taking up space that i can use to mount my msd..
yes, you can eliminate the charcoal canister. doesn't really improve anything, that was my impression. just route the vacuum line from the purge cut solenoid directly to the throttle body, where the return line is from the charcoal canister.
On my LS I did not hook the second soleniod up. I even un-did the pins in the 4-pin connector to make sure it would not be powered. Basically mine runs like a OBD-1 vacuum layout. Very easy, how I like it.
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